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<p>^^ yes that stuff there </p>
Nar apparently the bolt holes for holden heads don’t allow 2 inch pipes
but DPE exhaust only make a 1 3/4 plate but I’ll die grind this out as large as possible, I’m goin to try my hardest and if I can I’ll make 2 inch fit straight up but if not I have a plan, maybe a tad of bashing the pipes may alow them to fit, I’ll soon find out
There is nothing in the car i dont know these days
So the debat was massive on witch pipe size would suit best so i went with my gut and got a 1 3/4 engine flange mostly because thats the only one they do
And i will die grind that out tonsuit heads and pipe
Then got 8 by 1 7/8 inch 90 degree bends to come straight of that plate and will be around 6-8 inches (ill make them all the same)
Then the rest all in 2 inch down to a 4 into 1 flange with a 3.5 inch out let
Of that i will fit 3.5 inch cats and if i can ill fit 3.5 inch spiral mufflers iv been seeing and then it will turn towads my X pipe where it will step down to my existing twin 3 system
That should flow enough im thinking
Once new pipes are made ill have my 5002 pacemakers that have been hpc coated with 3 inch pipe to rear of gear box up for grabs
I am very dissapointed, I was speaking to Tracy Grimshaw on the week end and she told me all car enthusiasts were bogan wankers who were on the dole, you guys seem way too cultured to be hoons
Wouldnt waist my breath on that moll
She has something against car people
So with my wiring about 80% complete now im looking at one other thing before tuning this when the ls ecu and harness turns up soon
Im looking at getting a DIY extractor kit from difilipno
My thoughts 1 7/8 for first bend then into 2 inch primarys and 4 into 1s with a 3.5 inch collector then through 3.5 inch cats and down to 3 inch to my existing twin 3 inch system
Carnt fit 2 inch on flange on holden heads
Whats are proples thoughs on this size and 4 into 1 or try Y ??
I want this to support the 800 hp this will have right now and 1000hp some day soon and maybe more in the future if i go to a torque power block one day
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This reply was modified 9 years, 6 months ago by
vs manta 218.
I only have a 180 amp mig witch i just use SS wire and gas and works great
My brother in law has a allmax AC/DC 200 amp tig
That was $1000, isnt top of the line stuff but works great for home stuff and has the foot peddle so can control power really well with it
Built my exhaust with tig and the varex mufflers i fitted recently i use my mig
From DPE difillipno
basic kit witch from what I gather has engine flange (LS engine in image) then 30 90degree bends and collector
can get them in 4 into 1 or tri Y kits
$440 for 1 7/8 kits and prices go up from there
iv had a bit of pipe work experience now and feel I would have no problem piecing one of these together like above
just need to make sure it can be fitted and removed
and yes clearly every one needs 1000hp, only silly people don’t see this life fact
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This reply was modified 9 years, 6 months ago by vs manta 218.
Either way I’m getting a set of the DIY extractors, just need to decide weather 1 7/8 is good or weather I should go 2 inch
I’m thinking 2 inch as I want 1000hp one day with this set up
Are shit yeah
Thats awesome, im getting a set
Thanks
Yep sweet
if diffilipno have a kit i might just get that and start welding
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=181614935404&alt=web
Hope the link worked
Are you talking about morosso spiral mufflers that actually have spiral/cork screw inside them ??
Or long round mufflers that are like normal mufflers but sort of have a ribed inside thats spiral ??
Seen them on a mates VE
Im looking at making custom extractors soon goin 1 7/8 for a few inches then to 2 inch primarys to down to 3.5 collectors and through 3.5 inch cats and a set of these above then down to 3 in to my existing exhaust
Well that affect ground clearance ??
And is it really that loud you have to make it quiter?
where does the green wire go and I don’t remember these blue wire ever been anywhere lol
Progress pic
still a lot to go but I’m getting there, mount map sensor, + and – blocks and get a vac line in there should see me a fer bit closer and then when ecu turns up I’ll fit that in original spot and fit the igniter and finishing MSD ingition wires that can bee seen dangling there and then move foward
i have thermo fans controled off ecu witch goes to a relay that when power comes out of that I have a over ride switch spliced into it then to the 2 thermo fan relays, that way over ride does not send back charge to ecu
this will clean all but 3 relays for fuel pumps out of the boot area, fuel pump control out of ecu will by pass the factory relay and go straight to boot as I have my own 25+ amp wiring to all individual pumps 1 in main tank and 2 in serge tank
my switches for thermo over ride, turning lights on gauges as they are quite bright at night and so stones prefer them off when cruising, engine kill switch will all be removed from the centre consol where I have them, that will get fibre glassed/bogged and repainted and fan/AC control section will be removed and the switches relocated to there
And a link to the 500+ post thread i got it from
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f187/ok-now-let-s-talk-about-downsides-e85-602323/
i found this on a dodge forum and seams very good info
It should have been obvious when others said that it “washes right off with gasoline”. Why would something that ethanol is selectively dissolving wash off with gasoline? If this were something in rubber or from our <span style=”background-color: transparent; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;”>fuel </span><span style=”background-color: transparent; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;”>tanks</span>, wouldn’t that imply that gasoline would dissolve it even more readily than E85?Alright, so what is this stuff? It is a appears to be a very large petroleum based hydrocarbon, similar to Vaseline. There isn’t a single hetero-atom in the molecule (ie, the entire molecule is comprised of hydrogens and carbons), but the molecule is very large. It is also completely aliphatic (ie, only single bonds in the structure – no double or triple bonds). Where did it come from? I can only think of two different sources it could be coming from. It is either something that is mixed in with the rubber hoses that is meant to dissolve away in the gasoline, or it is a trace impurity in the 15% gasoline that is in E85 that wasn’t separated during the fractional distillation process. Because it is such a large molecule, it wouldn’t be very soluble in ethanol and could easily crash out of solution at the injector.
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Well, here is what I did just so everyone is clear. I filled a <span style=”background-color: transparent; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;”>40mL</span> vial with E85 and blew it dry with nitrogen gas and mild heating (about 150*F). After there was no fuel left, I placed it under high vacuum to remove any remaining volatiles for about an hour. I was left with a clear sticky residue that smelled bad – like nasty frying oil. I dissolved this sample in the NMR solvent and analyzed it and it IS the same goo that was on the injector. There was smaller amounts of some other stuff in it as well, but the same peaks I saw in the black goo were in this residue. The black goo IS coming from the E85. It isn’t naturally black, though. I suspect it just has soot mixed in with it that is giving it the color.So the next challenge is figuring out why is this crap in our fuel, and if it is in everyone’s fuel (particularly people who aren’t having this problem).
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Gum in E85!——————————————————————————–
Ok, it isn’t chewing gum, of course. I think gum is a generic term for high MW sticky solids. Anyway, if you look at table 1 in this article, it mentions that there is up to 5mg of “solvent-washed gum content”/100mL and up to 20mg “unwashed gum content”/100mL. It think this might be what is sticking to our injectors.
Later in the article it also mentions that mixing E85 and pump gas WILL cause additives to crash out and stick to the injectors and intake runners. I don’t think this is what we are seeing since I saw the molecule in a clean sample of E85, but it does open that possibility for others who are mixing.
(link to doc that didn’t work)
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So I’m in a brief meeting intermission, but I really am convinced that this stuff is the “gum” mentioned in that article. I found another paper that defined the gum as the residue left after evaporation of the fuel. I’m going to see if I can get ahold of the author of that paper and see if I can figure out exactly what the “gum” is to verify that this is what we are seeing.
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Thiazole, I think have a lead on an exact chemical name to follow up on in solving this mystery. Read the following:“Overuse of additives with E85 may result in poor vehicle operation. RFA has also made certain recommendations about appropriate detergent treatment of E85. Some detergents, such as polyisobutylene amine, have performed poorly in FFV operation. At some blend levels, these additives may precipitate out of the blend resulting in excessive fuel system deposition.”
This info was taken from a pdf I found while researching for a graduate project on E85 I am currently doing,http://www.afdc.energy.gov/afdc/pdfs/41853.pdf
So polyisobutylene amine might be the gum that is precipitating and this is a straight up fuel quality issue and not a fuel environment based one…
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It wouldn’t surprise me if gasoline evaporates faster than ethanol in which case you could see this stuff crash out (since it isn’t soluble in ethanol). I doubt it happens in the gas tank, though, or the entire fuel system would be covered in this gunk, which I haven’t seen. What probably happens is after turning the engine off, whatever E85 is left on the tips of the injectors and in the intake manifold evaporates off leaving behind this gum. After doing this several times, you get a significant amount of gum formation.
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It is dissolved in the E85, but just barely so that it readily crashes out at the injector tip. You can’t filter it. It would be like filtering out hard water to remove hard water stains. It can’t be done until after it crashes out, but by then it is too late.You wouldn’t want to filter this out even if you could, anyway. The E85 I’m buying has about 10mg of this gum/100mL which means it has about 6000mg per tank. The amount of gum required to clog up an injector is probably only 20mg. The amount to clog a <span style=”background-color: transparent; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;”>fuel </span><span style=”background-color: transparent; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;”>filter</span> would probably be about 1000mg or less. If you could filter it, you’d be clogging several filters per tank. When we scale up the synthesis of a drug, if there is an intermediate that forms a gum and requires filtration, it can actually kill that synthesis and send us back to the drawing board. Gums SUCK and there really aren’t many good ways to deal with them other than just dissolving them away.
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Q from someone: I was just thinking that if the gum is a component of the gas that’s added to the ethanol to make the E85 (the other 15% that’s not ethanol) then adding a little more gas that is more highly refined might push the cross over point far enough that we’d never see it… ?
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Yes – I suspect that when they add the gasoline to the ethanol that the gum is at or very near the saturation point. If you consider that 10 gallons of E85 only has 1.5 gallons of gasoline in it, adding another 1.5 gallons of non-gum containing gasoline like racing gas would decrease the relative concentration of the gum to gasoline by 50% away from saturation. I think this alone would make a big difference and be pretty affordable if it worksHow many km has this done ??
And how long of time has it been since heads last come off
did you notice it was down on power to remove the heads and have a look ??
Just release the rear all the way off
you won’t want them on with all the burnouts you will doin anyway lol
Lookin good
is that like adjustable bias or how ever it’s spelt ? (Adjust pressure to increase or decrease either front or rear ) or is it both equal pressure and one for front and one for rear ??
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This reply was modified 9 years, 6 months ago by
