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Got the drivers side all made up
just got to weld them up and then do he cat and connect it to existing exhaust
One last go and I give up
Let’s try a 5th time
4th lucky trying to post pics
Update pics
iv had to weave cyilendar 5 to make it as long as possible
Iv seen a few custom pipes now and I must say to make ones like above is a level of expertise that is earned by the elite not just someone with a dream like me, it’s something one must do for years to be able to do some pipes like that
iv done some changes to myn after seeing others, can see in a pic above I cut little pieces to create some tricky bends I need to achieve to try and keep them similar length but I have thrown that part out and re done it
I’ll get some pics up tomorrow, I have the slip on collectors now and 2 pipes are connected with the 3rd nearly completed as well and have changed how 2 pipes go either side of steering arm and now have 3 between sump and steering arm and 1 out side it
For a first timer with no extractor making skills I’m doin extremely well but they won’t be as nice to look at as the ones above
So I’m guessing a big paw alloy block would also be no good as its 20mm wider ?
What about the COME alloy black they have made ??
Why would it be so important to have factory cam location ??
Didnt they raise it so they could fit massive lift cams ??
Don’t know about you but if I’m buying a $6000 block I’m not planing on running 0.600 lift cam nor do I want to be limited to that
Yeah I went to the nitro funny cars meet at palmyra just a couple weekends a go
I see them each year but I don’t think anything here in oz would truly compare to a full NHRA meet with top fuelers in funny cars and rails, the pro stocks and pro stock bikes all in 1 mad event in one of there multi million dollars facility’s
and to walk around the pits and see there set ups would be on a whole new level
couple years ago at the nitros they rebuilt the engine each run but now they don’t do that any more
I was talking to one team member and they use a alloy block and alloy heads with alloy con rods as well, I actually have one hanging up in my shed and they use the engine for 3 runs and do very little compared to what they use to between runs
a leak down test and service and away they go again and surprisingly they run about 20psi in the nitro cars
F1 is a must to see live and also sub 6 second drag cars are also a must to see live
NHRA would be absolutly awesome to see live
Yeah ok
I was wondering why no one ever does it at home
guess I’ll just send them to brisvagas when I finish them
And cheers Gary, it’s not easy and takes a long long time
I dont expect them to look like art work as I’ll say now I suck at welding and I think that will show but I don’t care as long as I pressure test them and no leaks I’ll be happy lol
^^^ at least the pics are there lol
its a mission making 4 into 1 fit in a vs yet alone in 2 inch pipes, I seriously doubt this could be made all in 1 and still be able to install them
i can can still get these in and out fearly easly, I need alternator out for front 2 pipes and need the front pipes out to install the rears but there is no undoing engine mount or jacking up like pacemakers
the main issue is getting 4 pipes past the steering arm and making them all similar lengths, that’s why I have no.7 looping around to try and get a bit of length on it
i have had to squash no.7 cyilendar a little to get past the steering arm but it will work quite fine
Hope fully I can get a set of slip on hooker collectors this week
<p style=”box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; margin-top: 0px; color: #555555; font-family: Oxygen, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 20px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%;”>Making 4 into 1 fit in a VS is a mission exspecially when I’m trying to make them all the same length</p>
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<p style=”box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; margin-top: 0px; color: #555555; font-family: Oxygen, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 20px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%;”></p>
<p style=”box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; margin-top: 0px; color: #555555; font-family: Oxygen, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 20px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%;”>
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<p style=”box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; margin-top: 0px; color: #555555; font-family: Oxygen, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 20px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%;”>
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<p style=”box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; margin-top: 0px; color: #555555; font-family: Oxygen, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 20px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%;”></p>Yeah ok so there are types of thermal barrier that are applied with a spray gun, I thought there was
where can I get this from ??
I take it there is a base/primer used?
Is the prep work things like bead/sand blasting, acid dipping or other forms that I could actually do at home ??
My pipes are to close to each other to wrap them and would bind up quite a lot
I was just wondering if there is a way I can apply it my self to get away from the freight cost or if it has to be applied with them high heat plasma spay guns they use
Making 4 into 1 fit in a VS is a mission exspecially when I’m trying to make them all the same length
Then I got the 1 7/8 inch 8inch long parts fitted to cyilendars 5 and 7
5 and 7 are a little out of wack to each other so I’ll fix that before I continue on
So started making pipes from cyilenders 1 and 3 to start with, I’m definetly getting some slip on collectors and each pipe is individually fitted
first problem was was the flange didn’t even fit, so had to grind down some spots, this is just rough as and just getting it fitted, I’ll smooth them up and round all the out sides nicely soon
So first was getting the 1 7/8 parts on and these are 8 inches long and in my case I had to make cyilendar 1 clear the alternator
Then can see here iv gone under the engine mount with these 2 pipes as that gives me heaps of room for pipes on pots 5 and 7
So these 2 pipes ended up looking like this so far and both come out near bell housing ready for when the collectors turn up I can add the rest to connect up
these 2 pipes where fearly easy and are the longest that had to be done so this is the length I’m sticking to now
Then I got the two 8 inch long part onto cyilendar a 5 and 7 and will continue on tomorrow
This is all only tacked together at the moment, I’ll bend cyilendar 7 out slightly to match no.5 but numbers 1 and 3 are staying inwards like that
So started making pipes from cyilenders 1 and 3 to start with, I’m definetly getting some slip on collectors and each pipe is individually fitted
first problem was was the flange didn’t even fit, so had to grind down some spots, this is just rough as and just getting it fitted, I’ll smooth them up and round all the out sides nicely soon
So first was getting the 1 7/8 parts on and these are 8 inches long and in my case I had to make cyilendar 1 clear the alternator
Then can see here iv gone under the engine mount with these 2 pipes as that gives me heaps of room for pipes on pots 5 and 7
So these 2 pipes ended up looking like this so far and both come out near bell housing ready for when the collectors turn up I can add the rest to connect up
these 2 pipes where fearly easy and are the longest that had to be done so this is the length I’m sticking to now
