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Have you put a 2 bar map sensor in it or still got the factory map sensor ?
I’m with cava, don’t think you will see any difference on dyno
maybe with bonnet down before and after you might but not with the bonnet open before and bonnet closed after
the track is the spot to tell how good this will work
either way I think your on the right track Gary and won’t have any problems, N/A cars suck all there air through a 90mm or smaller throttle body so I don’t see how 2 by 250mm by 150mm Intakes to 2 by air box/planiums alomost that probley hold 3-5L each would be any problem
Are dam it what happened to my pics
not these but just the concept of how they don’t stick up at all and are just flush with the bonnet to keep the sleek standard look and not have any new raised lines as VS do not have many lines and are mostly curves
obviously just designe some up your self and print them out that suit your car and not just these quick google images I found in 35 seconds
Yeah 1/4 times would be a heap better certainly improve the 2.5 second 60 foot times or what ever it was
couldnt even get full throttle till 4th gear last time
so I’m goin to build a new diff, the current 4:11 diff is goin into the Monaro and goin to try maybe 3.7 with a true track and keep the harrop cover in the manta, goim to build this diff my self as well
if I like it will keep it if not will just get 4:11 gears and swap it over to that
Believe it was tested with 98
well 100% was just a thought but after more reasherce it just seams dangerous and waiting to back fire putting my manifold hat through the bonnet
50/50 just seams smarter or possibly 75% meth maybe if I’m feeling dearing lol
odley enough it doesn’t feel more powerful lol, it just sticks to the road and is very deceiving now, before applying any power in 2nd or a decent amount in 3rd it would spin the tyres and that gave it a deceiving feeling of been powerfull because its just spinning tyres, now it just grips, I can get 100% throttle in 2nd now by easing power on so clearly it moves a lot quicker but it feels 1000 times safer now so it does and it doesn’t if that makes sence
So i got my Bosch ev14 1000cc injectors flowed to see what they really flow
50psi =840cc
60psi = 960cc
65psi = 1020cc
70psi = 1080cc
75psi = 1140cc
80psi = 1164cc
bosch say they flow these and group them into there flow groups weather it be 88lbs or 93lbs so customers get a matching set
myn all had 91lbs in Nikko on them when I brought them and I have a mate with same 1000cc injectors and the part numbers match
they where extremely acurate with each other pretty much bang on the same and having filters in 4 of them and not in other 4 in 1 test made no difference at all
so I’m renaming them to Bosch ev14 almost 1000cc as they would only flow around 780cc at 43.5psi
Up at 56-58 psi the injectors spray looks much much better then it does at 50psi
my plan of attack is My pressure is 48 psi above manifold pressure so max pressure with boost is 63psi
im goin to up it to 55psi above manifold pressure so at 15psi boost I have 70psi in the rail
this up in pressure will make up for the 400rpm where I’m running short on fuel and also turning on the water meth with a 50/50 mix wil also give me more leave way with injector duration
when I up the boost I will keep current tune and injectors as that’s more then enough for street use and more boost with 1600cc will mainly be racing use when I get to that stage
Yeah Iv got twin 3 inch varex mufflers on Myn
no doubt the Magna flow twin rear mufflers I use to have sounded better
on on a hydrolic cammed mild car Iv got no idea what they would sound like but on my solid cammed cranky engine closing the mufflers takes the crackle out of it and very noticeable when out side the car
if your not worried about noise defects use good mufflers, if your car is very noise and want to be able to maybe get away with it then the varex is ok
It’s aolchol injections systems
Think they are Prometh now
Cava loved the altenzas, pretty sure he has a set now for his VR
99% sure Iv maxed the injectors out, living in the tropics means it’s spastic hot at the moment so haven’t done anything yet, just driving the Monaro with ac on flat out
thinking pumpin in 100% methanol through meth injection system to see what it does
Nice power man
what timing is it running up top end ?
only current problem is it has a wicked exhaust leak from cylinder number 8 flange to cylinder head
And what a right pita that is.
fixed this leak to
Hay buddy cheers
its amazing what a set of wheels and some custom made manta stickers can do to it ay
car is just sitting awaiting cooler temperature before I drive it again and I put 100% methanol into the meth injection system and tune that into it
apart from that car runs sweet as
Is the intermediate shaft all the way down on the spline in this pic ??
On the VL rack where the spline come up it has a flat spot and that’s where the bolt should line up with
could be wrong but looks like I can still see 15mm or so of spline under the intermediate shaft in this pic
Yeah when I was doin the VL rack change every one told me easiest way was to cut the shaft and weld it
I fitted the rack and did some measurment and immediently seen if I just swapped the bottom piece it fitted perfectly
did that in like 1 hour as I was a little cautious on what I was doin and fitted perfectly
doin it again and Im Sure it’s same with cava now he has done it could do it in like 20 mins if engine is out
did is you just swap the top Uni over ? If so it looks like it’s goin be like 30mm short
The last 2 or 3 times Iv had a look on there in the last year or so I have been the only member online at that time
Ok looks like I’m throwing my shammy away then and drying with a cloth, shammys suck ass anyway
your paint on ute come up mint man
yeah dan throw your mcguires in the bin and get some 3D for sure
also slow 355 I have 2 mates one a painter and one a panel beater and both are willing to show me how to buff but when I ask if they will do it they just laugh and say yeah right and walk away
assholes lol
Painted by someone who hasn’t worked in the industry for over 10 years in a shed and home made booth and rubbed and buffed by a ape that has only half a idea what he is doin
this stuff really is that good, it takes a lot for me to rave on about something that is good
this morning I wash it after I hit a few spots that needed fine touch ups and I wiped water off it in about 2 minutes flat, I have never wiped water off a car that quick in my entire life
The top 2 in green bottles
just slow and steady really and have to use wool pad first then orange foam pad and this buffing thing is a new paint job thing, don’t do it to a old factory paint job, it’s purely to remove any orange peel and dust
most other cutting compounds have what they call fillers in them and after buffing if you wipe with prepsol it will remove these fillers and the scratches will show up again, washing the car 3 times will also remove the fillers and your stuck in a loop and buffing and washing
pretty much any rubbing compounds and polish you can get from a shop are crap, they are designed so polishes are easily washed off by the crap wash stuff then you need more polish so your back at the shop buying polish again and buying that same wash and again in a loop of cleaning
use the good stuff and can polish and wash and have that bead off water effect for months on end and wash after wash instead of using the crap and washing it twice and then water sites on it and the schamy just smears the water on it
fuck cleaning cars, I’m using the good shit and it makes life so much easier, the blue car is lucky to get cleaned 5 times a year and yet always looks clean and the Monaro gets cleaned weekly and is always filthy
Yep I’m keen i will take it
just got your email not sure if you got my reply or if it’s gone to this forum instead
contact me on 0416484380 Peter
