[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Where did you get that spec from ??

 

Not a chance In the world would I run a 2 inch wide gilma at 56lbs, that would total bearings real quickly and whine like all fuck and be under massive tension once hot

 

my Pullies are about 500mm apart, when it’s cold the longest part of belt can move about 35-40mm so 20mm from centre line up or down till it goes tight, when it’s hot this halves and only has about 15-20mm up and down total movement (slack)

 

even when I take all the slack out when it’s hot it still has 10mm movement due to the length between Pullies but that’s when it gets that slap up to it and vibrates and doesnt like it

 

its a big no no to run a 2 inch gilma belt under tension, I was told by capa if I run the belt with any tension it will distroy the bearings in my Crank brace in no time at all

 

check out a drag car next time you see one with a 8/71 fitted, I bet it’s belt has about 80mm slack in it, if you ever go to the v8supercars check out the arms 2 burnout cars that get around to them, there 2 inch wide belts have about 90-100mm slack in longest part of belt

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Just running in the alternator in 1st gear

 

http://youtu.be/zufQ02gStR0

 

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Don’t know what the part number is

 

not a fan of posting illegal skids on public forums, maybe I can do a drive way skid

• This reply was modified 8 years, 10 months ago by  vs manta 218.

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[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

I like the tech talks, that’s why I’m on this forum

 

Yeah I’m not sure on specs, Iv never seen any and never been told any specs on tension and I 99% sure Scott from capa was who told me to not have it tight and check it while hot

 

having a 50mm wide belt if it’s tensioned up it puts huge load on the bearings and wears them out

 

my belt with the loose tension it is now does not flap, when it’s slightly tighter it does flap and can see it even when free revving it, with the belt been so wide when it flaps I know about it as I can feel it in the car as a vibration

 

would good old to know if anyone knows specs of tension of gilma belts

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Don’t know if there is a correct tension spec for capas gilma set up, think the only rule is not tight and not to loose it can fly off

 

if there is little to no slack in the belt while hot then it will whistle, if you put a little tension on it then it will be louder, tiny bit of slack in the belt while hot and its quitter

 

gilmas are not Ment to be tight at all, Iv seen 8/71 blowers where the belt is really loose, like can push it about 50-60mm till the slack is taken out

 

myn I can push it maybe 30-40mm when cold till the slack is taken up and about 10-20mm when it’s hot

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Yeah that’s awesome 

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

I can not drill them all the way through, I wanted to do that, to drill them so they come out the lip on the front means the holes will be about 10mm from outer edge of pullie so would only be 8mm under the 50mm wide belt, the rear of pulley is even worse and holes would need to be about 5mm from edge, and where I’ve drilled them it’s solid alloy till the keyed shaft it slides onto so I had to pick a depth as just been random would mean the pulley would become unballenced

 

I didn’t actually measure, I simple set the drill press and just went for it might be more like 10mm actually as 5mm is pretty shallow and they do have a bit of depth

 

exactly right with it only been air been trapped, I was told to get the engine hot and then set it so the belt is not tensioned but it’s not flopping either

 

doin this I found on cold running it was hitting a harmonic frequencies and on down rev the belt would slap violently and I could feel this all through the car through the seats, steering wheel, even if you touched the windows or doors you could feel it, I could see it slapping with bonnet open and giving it a rev

 

I found loosing it just a tad more all vibrations at all times went away, so when it’s hot the belt is still a tad loose, I can slide across the pullie 5mm when it’s hot

 

drilling the the holes has made a huge difference, it is massively quiter, and now is just a blower whistle when revved, I could nearly get away with people not knowing its blowen while idling and that’s a big thing when it’s a v7ysi with a 50mm gilma drive

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Only this crappy one of when I drilled the first row, Iv machined my 60mm pullie down to about 53mm, so each row is about 17mm from out sides and 17mm between them give or take a bees dick

 

when end I put this on FB the first response was why would you want to make it quitter, I couldn’t face palm my self hard enough,

 

not every one gets a fat over a gilma whine lol

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

VRSenator065 wrote:

Very interesting Pete, I actually think that’s what the issue is/was with mine. With me I had left the fuel pump at max for when they had done the power run, I think that was what tipped the current draw over the edge. But now I have readjusted it back down and the voltage issue seems to have sorted itself and its starting better as well. Might have to look into an alternator like yours I reckon. Thanks for the write up

 

only just seen you had replied Gary

 

yeah it very well could be a problem, fuel pumps take massive power supply along with everything else you very quickly add up to 80 amps

 

if you can find a end of your alternator wire where you can get verniers (don’t know how to spell it but the tool that measures in thou) and see what size the core of the wire is and match it to see what gauge it is

 

if it’s gauge 7 or smaller, so gauge 8 then definetly a problem, if it’s gauge 6 then you will be on the limits and gauge 5 or 4 is good

 

gauge 6 is what most will hand you over the counter but the problem is this is all good with a battery in the engine bay with 800mm of wire, but me and you have 2.5M at least till it gets to the big battery wire

 

i think from memory you have a gauge 0 or 00 from battery to under your dash somewhere like I do then it goes in wheel well to starter and on to alternator

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Fuck yeah get the ban stick out lol 

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

As long as you change the oil regularly it will be fine

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Yes because volts have changed a lot is the main reason to do some street tuning first

 

can make a car drive nice by street tuning so much better then on a dyno exspecially with myn That wants to be a savage

 

hopefully me and leppy go for a drive next Monday or Tuesday and after that I’m sorting some tyres for some of my 18 inch rims before some serious power runs on the dyno ready for some mph runs down the strip Next year

 

My prediction is right now with 11 degrees and 6800rpm it’s got 425-430rwkw as last time on the 20 inch rims it just spun them after 5900rpm at 400rwkw and when we bump up the timing maybe about 470-480 rwkw witch will be very very nice for a 355 on 13 psi

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Who cares if there ugly

Your not looking under the bonnet while driving

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Feels good as now, not doughy anymore

 

i didn’t mention that it would be ok in day time but night time was worse when lights where on

 

ever item I turned I could see volts drop more, lights, thermo fans, on and use a electric window and it would be at 11.0V sometimes into the 10.9v

 

 

also found my main earth wire was loose as when fitting new power cables as well

 

MSD ingition absolutely hates low voltage, that’s why it wouldn’t start, would turn over and give a half assed fire but not start, hook jumper leads up and turn over bit faster and started straight away, drive off and it was really doughy and just wanted to break down under heavy throttle up top end

 

felt like spark problem

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

I’m back

 

so since last tune car was goin great then out of no where it just started shutting down above 5000rpm and feeling really doowie and would not start once hot unless I jumped it

Start checking things out and noticed I only had 11.8v and max of 12.3v at high rpm usually a little less

 

got a 120 amp alternator hooked it up and same thing, still low voltage, so I got a amp metre and bam it was sucking down 55amps at idle and 3000rpm it was pumping out 100amps and still at 12.4 or so V

 

so I though screw this and found a Merican company that make alternators to your specs so I got a cs130 case, 200amp single wire capable of doin 120 amps at idle and requires a minimum of gauge 4 wire fitted to it

 

fitted it and noticed I had to grind off 180 thou from its mounting point so done that and got the belt perfectly aligned, fired it up just to see with my old wire and bam still had 11.8v idle and mid 12 at rpm

 

so because Iv been working 8 days a week I got my old boy to go into battery world and get few metres of gauge 4 wire, been a electrician I though he would nail this, anyway he told the bright spark behind the counter that wire he has is to big for 4 gauge but after he insisted it was 4G he got it and it’s actually 00 gauge same as my main battery cable so it was difficult to run the wire fowards and behind the gaurd and to my mounting block under dash where the 00 battery cable was, at the same time I replaced a few earth cables and the power cable to my fuse box for fuel pumps and thermo fans my car now consist of more copper them steel

Fired it up and 13.5 V at idle and 14.3 at rpm, not sure if that’s to much but anyway I’m not shy of volts now and has fixed all my issues and running sweet as again

 

so hopefully next week we do another street tune, we are making a series cable to hook my zietronix wide band into my EFI live so I can data log and then we hit the dyno and start feeding in some more timing as it’s still only running 11 degrees with over 400rwkw

 

looking at 17-18 degrees and see what it does and I also have a slightly smaller pullie if I want to jam a bit more boost in it next winter

 

other things Iv done is I drilled 2 rows of 2mm holes in every grove in the blower pullie about 5mm deep and the belt whistle is near silent now

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Holly shit

 

i wreckin Iv Done 3rd gear sincro in my t56, I think I’ll need more tools to pull my box apart then what’s In your Pics above of your glide in pieces

 

vlave body’s can be tricky but the shaft and gears look really simple

 

for the price of a cheap second hand glide and its next use it was expected to find this and good to find it now rather then later

 

also so slip on collectors for the win, makes life so much easier, I’m sure I have a proper pain in the ass set of pipes for most people but with slip on collectors it’s easy as for me as I know there sequence to fit them

 

Oddley enough my first 2 pipes are harder to get in then the 6 that follow them as the first 2 need to go in together if that makes sense

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

He has a adapter from EV1 to USCAR

 

I had the same, both injector dynamic and Bosch ev14 1000cc injectors run USCAR plugs so they will not plug into our looms And require a adapter

 

This is what he is fitting

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[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

cava454 wrote:

Ok stupid question Gary. Why hyd the change in injector plugs?

the adapters are crap

 

having 2 connections with in a inch of each other is not ideal, the actuall plugs are cheap as, maybe $20 for 8 if that

 

changing them is simple as and anyone that is not a retard can do it if they have a bit of faith in them selves and have a go

 

its just eliminating a second connection that does not need to be there

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Immortality wrote:

Yes. Did you upgrade the cable size from what was originally used as the charge cable from the alternator to battery? The original alternator was probably an 85amp unit and the charge cable is really only designed to handle that load. Running a larger alternator at higher loads could very well see voltage drops across the cable as it gets to hot.

gary alternator wire is working fine, I asked him the other week and he said he has 13.5+v at idle

 

I was asking what size it is for my own interest

 

either way I got my old boy to go and get me some 4 gauge wire from battery world and he asked for that and even said to the special person serving him that looks pretty dam big for gauge 4 wire

 

anyway now I’m trying to fit this 00 gauge wire I have ended up with from my alternator to my battery cable

 

not to easy at all

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Yeah under the runners is the go

 

I have done that on myn And made it 100% neater

 

yeah good help is always good exspecially with little fiddle wires that you need to hold while soldering the ends on end and then need to hold solder gun and solder witch means you need 3 arms

 

hay what size wire you got from alternator back to where your big wire from battery  is under dash ??

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