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You think I should keep factory monaro look ??
Hahaha classic
at least the tail lights made it back onto the car and the pretty ones got sold off, of all things they ended up on a genuine VS GTS
Actually maybe I should do a thread so I can find a company that makes GTO style body kits for them
I can not find any
Separate build thread please kind sir. Knowing you this will turn into something….
Might do a small thread when I do the paint on it
but honestly this isn’t getting much, it’s just goin to be made smick as so it’s a awesome cruiser for me
well a few months back I brought a Prado, it’s a bit slow and has been bothering me lately, so on Monday I stumbled across a Monaro so I took it home with me
got it for $9k
so after 48 hours in my position it now has new slotted rotors and pads, doin all the oils, and plugs this weekend before it gets road worthy next week
The paint is little faided so in couple weeks it’s getting striped and coping a paint job, I’m thinking of painting it in the cherry black or what ever it is that some of the late VS clubbys and GTS come in and possibly getting a GTO kit maybe
still undecided on colour but it won’t be a bright colour as the manta is bright, so something more dark that won’t stand out so much but still very noticeable it’s a nice paint job and different colour
after that it’s getting coil over suspension, all new rubbers, few replacement parts for interia that are falling apart then just the usually exhaust extractors, otr and tune
plan an is to make it a sweet ass daily driver
then on sundays I will have to choose witch one to drive
Sounds exactly the same as my life lately
How is this coming along ??
Any skid vids yet ??
Yeah I have a mate that said his gilma crank pullie was 2 piece or seen someone’s who’s was 2 piece
myn looks to be 1 piece but does have a bunch of Allen head screws on rear between v belts and gilmas but it apears to only be a flat ring screwed onto it
I have 0.600 thou lift and it’s 252-260
it actually drives quite nice now
solid engine man, forged crank, rods and Pistons, cast heads fully ported, SS valves and 5 axis grind, 8.5 comp, block grout filled and so
I have a build thread just a few places Under yours and first page has full list of mods witch is quite long
i also have have a thread in exhaust section where I built a set of extractors, it’s worth a look, pipes are 4 into 1 and are 2 step 1 7/8 for 8 inches then 2 inch, goes to a tapered collectors from 2 3/4 inch to 3.5 inch, 3.5 inch pipes to cats and Into a twin 3 inch system I also built my self
just Changing these extractors seen boost go from 18 psi down to 13psi, that’s how much better flowing they are
should have pics in both threads them as well
will pay to count the crank pullie
im 99% sure the 50mm gilma crank pullie is 82 tooth from caps on holdens, at first I to thought it was 72 but turns out myn is 82
I had a 34 tooth on v2 blower witch max efficiency is 52000 rpm and my power fell over nearly exactly at that point at 6200 engine RPM
i have a solid roller 25# – 26# @112LSA witch revs to 6800 rpm but it didn’t matter power just fell over earlie anyway, now with v7 it falls over around 6800 like it should
I think you will find it will make good power with the comp been hi, myn made 383rwkw on 7psi maxing out the v2 that was with nearly 20 degrees timing and air temps just went sky hi after that
Yeah peak torque is where they want to ping
What exhaust and extractors do you have ??
Iv had a major diffences goin from pacemaker 5002 to a set I custom made
That’s some hi comps and wide LSA for boost man
I wouldnt be giving it much timing at all purely with the comp been hi
but can only wait and see how it behaves to it as ever engine is different
I thought I would need water meth as well but turns out I was wrong, me having a big ass A2A cooler with a v7ysi running it at about 59 000 rpm and I get air intake temps just a few degrees above ambient air temp, last time it was like 22-24 degree air out side and I had 29 degree intake temps across the rpm range
at 13psi I have a nice very very safe tune only running 11 degrees timing up top end and it’s making over 400rwkw
as as soon as it’s not as hot as the surface of the sun here in qld we are goin to see what it does on more like 17 degrees timing and maybe turn the water meth on and possibly try 100%meth compared to a 50/50 mix seeing what it likes and what difference it makes compared with out it
when you get it goin and you first ramp it up a little doin tuning see what your air intake Temps are doin, this will govern where the mater meth comes on in rpm range and how strong it comes on if you have a progressive system or not
holdens have a love to Ping spot at around 4200rpm so be carful around that rpm
when I had a v2 blower and I was maxing it out just over its 52000rpm limit as soon as it went over that my air temps went straight above 80 degrees
not good
what tooth pullies have have you got and what rpm does engine do ??
Looks good
are you using a v7ysi ??
And are are you goin to run water meth with no cooler ?
you do not need to massage any panels to fit a v2 or v7 blower on a VS
you ou can get around not cutting holes, running the pipe out towards to manifold and doin a U turn goin between the 8pk belt and radiator is achievable even when using a AU fans
v2 blowers are awesome for 355
Definetly skinned our cats differently and ended up in simialr spots and +2 for that
Well that is true Gary lol
its only a hand full if you drive it in a manner that you want it to be a hand full, anything under 2500rpm and it’s nice subtle and fearly dosile really
Yeah sweet as, it’s been a few years since I got myn, how long ago did you get yours ?
myn is loose as, like 40mm slack maybe more (20mm each way)
quite and no vibrations on down revs so works for me
Just had a look at the mannual you are talking about benk
on page 171 it has a small paragraph for hi performance vehicles
it says when using in hi performance applications like motorbike, race car and boat superchargers the design loads will typically exceed published data, because of the extreme loads and belts speeds ( as much as 500hp and belt speeds of 10 000fpm) it is important for the designer to contact gates power transmissions for additional assistance
although special considerations may be involved, it is important to remember that reasonable recommendations can be provided to the designer
scott from capa made it very very clear to me to not have any tension on the belt, he said it must be at 100% running temp and just take the slack out of it
plus people who run gilmas under tension have a tendency to snap the nose of the crank off
I’m actually not joking with running in the alternator, that seriously was the first time the tyres moved with that alternator hooked up lol, I literally started it up and checked volts, a small rev to 2500rpm then backed it out, washed it, warmed it up, run in the alternator and put it away lol
benk can you post a link to the belt tensions please
doesn’t really matter as its either to tight and whines, or just have the slack out of it and it vibrates and slightly looser where it works nicely so I know where I’m keeping it but I will send a email and ask the question
I think there is way way more to this then anyone can post on here in less then 3 pages
for starters I disagree with blower engines exhaust not having scavenging affects, Infact I think they have a big scavanging effect, on a top fuller (yes I know it’s not a street car blah blah yes it’s different) when they drop a cyilendar the engines sees a rise of 2-3psi due to the scavenging effect been lost on that 1 cyilendar alone
to put 2-3 psi into 7 cyilendars at 8500rpm that are already at something like 50psi requires massive amounts of air and that is from the loss of scavenging on 1 cyilendar alone
A turbo engine I will 100% agree there is pressure on pushing the exhaust out, probley big pressure to
Secondly I would think the static compression difference in engines from N/A to boost would make a difference a N/A 12:1 comp engine must make different HP-cfm to a 8:1 comp boosted engine, I have no idea how the dynamic compression with each engine works out while running though and again I could and probley am completely wrong
and with all that I could find on extractor sizes it is not about the HP, can push 1000hp through 1 3/4 pipes if you want, what it does have a big affect on is where your torque range is, because I have a high torque range in the 4000+rpm range is why I went for 2 inch pipes and it worked out great for me with very good results, I’m not positive 2 inch pipes on Cavas stock LSA engine with a very low torque range is a good idea though, 1 7/8 is certinly a great choice as its tryed and tested, if he built it to have torque at 3500-4000rpm then the bigger 2 inch pipes would probley most certainly be a better choice
his bigger CI is why 1 7/8 is the go, if it was 304CI with a 2000-2700rpm peak torque I would probley think 1 3/4 would be a better choice
Good stuff
your gear box mount looks like a mini diving board
Yeah that’s the belt tension, but that is still fearly tight, like a normal v belt is about 120lbs or so isn’t it ?
Maybe it’s something to do with there application, I see they are mostly used for for machinery and stuff, maybe as a drive belt that is steady rpm and belt only does Like 1000-1800rpm that would be fine with big bearings to take the load but when on and off the throttle to 7000rpm so savagely and the little bearings used on the brace and blower pullie is where the problems starts
i know they will distroy a alternator bearing in no time if it’s tight
when i first got it and didnt have the brace I didnt know it was Ment to be so loose, even when just a little bit of tension was applied I could see it pull the blower around about 7mm or so and its held in place by a 10mm steel plate and to do the same with the old 8pk belt took heaps and heaps of tension
Interesting stuff
