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  • #498
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    #497
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    Well, enough of the Kombi.  Truth is I have had some issues since the initial tune with the Senator.   So the new tuner has had it together with the boys at a highly recommended old school Dyno centre for the last two weeks.   They went through it quite painstakingly.   Turns out there were quite a few cumulative issues that they sorted.

    The throttle bodies were re- synchronised.  As it was the linkages weren’t tight.  So unfortunately as I drove it around they were vibrating and changing, in fact in the process it flogged out one of the ball joints.  Because of this basically the final tune was based on a flawed ITB set up.  It took the boys quite a while to fiddle and adjust them, you need to know what you’re doing.  It’s not just left and right bank, but then each individual TB to each other, then rinse and repeat.  If you look at the early videos of the engine idling you will notice it spit back though a couple of cylinders, it doesn’t do this now. TB synchronization doesn’t have much of an effect at wide open throttle, but makes a huge difference to low down and general driveability.

    The way the map sensor was plumbed was a big problem.  As the car was they showed me the map trace, it was bouncing around at idle violently, they more or less couldn’t tune it for idle.  Although ti sounded tough, at the time I did wonder a little why it was so lumpy with such a baby cam.  When they looked the map sensor was plumbed, it had been spliced into only one of the throttle bodies runners.  That means the pressure was jumping wildly at idle as it was only reading one runner every cycle.  So they removed the intake manifold, and joined opposing runners vacuum lines, then took each of those 4 back to the manifold.  The map sensor then reads off the end of the manifold.  That smoothed out the map trace and basically solved the problem.

    The transmission ECU parameters were readjusted.  That involved setting the shift points, the shift delay etc.  They have then run t up and down on the dyno at varying speeds and loads to tweak the gear changes.  Final step in that is a road test, for that final 1%. All things being equal that will solve my trans issue for now.

    They especially concentrated on mid to light throttle tune. As a genuine road car it’s not only important to work on wot max hp/torque but as important (maybe more) to work on those through the rev range.  Right now as it sits it’s really a baby cam, so it really should be nice and easy to drive, as much as a 700hp car can be :)

    So after all that they rang me very happy with the improvements they have made to the car.  I think the results speak for themselves.   It has now made a much more respectable 378kW, (507 HP) at the wheels, that converts to around 522 kW (700 HP) at the crank.  Not bad for a nice lazy baby cam, and to be perfectly honest, much more like the numbers I was expecting given the ITB set up and the way I have done everything else.  Also comparing it to what others have made with the crate LSx454, as its generally accepted GM are quite conservative in their power estimation.  All’s well that ends well, good times ahead

    Photobucket isn’t playing ball right now, will load up a dyno sheet pic later.

    #494
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    Bit of stuffing around to get the pumps wired up.  Turns out the battery had dropped voltage a little, after I left it on charge I got everything wired up nicely and tested perfect.  Disconnected the feed line to the surge and ran the pumps, great even flow. much quieter (I guess unsurprisingly) than the Holley.

    Took it for a drive, just so much fun to drive, I never ever get tired of driving it :) .  I can’t get over how relatively sedate it is at normal cruise speed.  At slow speed just squeeze the throttle and both light up instantly, I did try one run from a start, and it stalled up immediately and pulled like a train.  Bit more testing to go to get it all driving off the line as fast as possible, but so far really happy.

    Got underneath to check everything as its done a few km’s now, all looks good, obviously exhaust has lost its shine, and it really could do with a pressure wash when I feel keen.  Took a few pics for giggles, might drive it again once or twice but should be good for testing next Friday.

    #492
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
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    Posts: 5 777
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    Seems like forever since I had a nice fun day under the car working on it.  Just spent a great week on a houseboat up the river, caught a few fish and sank a few bottles of red, but have been itching to get back onto the Senator.

    So have mounted the dual lift pumps, pretty happy with how they sit, hard to get a great pic, but tomorrow should get them wired in, then its a bit of an electrical test then hit the starter.  Looking to do the engineering tests next Friday all things being equal.  Might even get to go for quick a squirt tomorrow :)

    Couple of random pics for the hell of it;

    #491
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    so whats happening now??

    OK, so bit of an update.  So the lift pump originally supplied definitely isn’t correct.  It needs to be medium flow, low pressure, more of a carby style pump than EFI.  The pump I had was high flow and high pressure, basically an EFI pump. Unfortunately the second Holley one Earls have given me is bloody enormous physically, and 3 times the flow rate I want as its designed as a main feed pump, its just not the one for me.

    Soooooo, trying to find a nice compact external E85 fully compatible pump of about 200 Lph (50 gph), at 3 or 4 psi is actually way more difficult than I thought.  Seems not too many of the big guys have cottoned onto the E85 band wagon yet, and those that have have done so for the main supply pump, which is either too high in pressure as its EFI or is way too high in flow rate as its designed as the main pump to feed big HP carby engines.

    But I have managed to locate a Pierburg pump, they are German and used in many OE applications, may even be whats used in my 911, so I am guessing they are good quality.  Only issue is they are only available in 100 lph which is about half the flow that I want.  So I have dug around, spoken to a few people and decided to try and mount two side by side.  Now I know I have rattled on about how I don’t like dual pumps, and that’s true for the main feed pump.  But actually for the lift pump, which is just basically keeping the surge topped up, its probably a bit of an advantage.  The reason being if there is a problem with one I will still keep driving as the other will easily keep up with topping up the surge at regular demand.  In fact a single 100lph would do for most times except circuit anyway.

    They are barb fitting, but since the pressure is only 5psi max, that will be fine, I think I will plumb it up using simple tees and hose to get it all running and tested, then later maybe silver solder up some nice dedicated pipe work once its all sorted and running fine.  At least the car will be back up and running

    So I have booked in for another go at the engineering testing Friday week which is the Anzac day public holiday so I don’t need time off work which is good.  Have to try and sort out a car trailer for the day that easy drive on/off, the one I got previously whilst I could sort of have made it work was going to be a bitch to get the car off as it was so high, now I have some time I will see whats available to hire thats better for low cars.

    #489
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    Just made a lazy 460HP at the wheels first pull, they are having a bit of trouble strapping it down to the rollers, Martin seems to think taking into account converter and tire slip, well over 600 at flywheel.  Had to leave him, now he earns his money tweaking it.  Couple of crappy iPhone vids, sounds so nice, like a V8 Supercar :)

    #488
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    Back home safe and sound in the bat cave :)

    #486
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    Just checked the power with a multi-meter, definitely sending 12V to each wire with the aerial up/down switches so I think maybe the aerials stuffed.

    Couple of pics of the brake bias mount, crappy iPhone pics unfortunately, think its nice and neat and easy to get too.

    #484
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
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    Took a couple of happy snaps with my iPhone during the shoot, here’s a couple of teasers. Was a lot of fun :)

    #483
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    Got a few more things done, best part is the fuel pumps quiet!!!  Decided to hook up the controller, its has a pot to adjusts the flow, and switch that bypasses it.  Made up a nice bracket to mount them, wired it all up, set the flow to maximum, and it started as per normal.  Just adjusted the flow down a tiny amount, not even a quarter of a turn maybe 90% and the pump just went silent, flick the switch and instant full noise.  Looks like its noisy when its running flat out, but just back it off a little and its really quiet.  So I set pulled down the middle of the back seat and fed the controller through so it was by me, went for a drive with my son watching the fuel pressure gauge,  gave it a bit, didn’t budge a mm, and was quiet as a mouse.  Bloody happy with that.  Will run it like that until it gets its full tune, it may be we don’t need to hook it up to the ECU at all.  For now I have mounted it up high out of the way in the boot, and also wrapped tape around it so there is no chance of the knob moving.

    Got the new Whiteline bar in, used Pedders adjustable attachment arms, fitted up perfect,   Looks closer to the strut bottom than it is, so that’s another job completely sorted.

    Also played around with the ECU, decided the best place for it is in the glove box, fits there easy.  So cut a hole at the back, fed the loom through and reconnected it.  Also mounted the diagnostic port to the inside of the side so its a bit more robust.  Not stressed about losing most of the glove box, just makes it so much neater around the passengers feet.

    Lastly learnt a lesson the hard way.  When playing around with braided power steering lines that run down close to the alternator, make sure the battery is disconnected.  Was fitting it all up and it touched the alternator terminal and sparked.  Wasn’t much so didn’t think much of it.  Got it all plumbed up, working fine, took my misses for her first squirt around the block in it, its so docile at normal throttle, lit it up a little at one point should have seen the smile on her face, she said wow that’s ridiculous :)  Anyhow got home, pull into the driveway and oil starts pissing everywhere under the car, the spark must have burnt a small hole in the Teflon hose under load it burst.  Luckily I guess it was at home, so have swapped back to the original lines, this time I isolated the battery ha ha.

    #482
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    Posts: 5 777
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    Well drove it home.  Fark it’s awesome.  Bear in mind it was over 40 degrees and I live 40km out of the city.  Stopped at the first set of traffic lights after leaving Phil’s.  A guy stops alongside me, winds down the window and says, “mate is that your fuel pump”. I smiled and said yea, she makes about 650hp, he just said ****, smiled and drove off.

    It’s just epic, effortless torque. Drove her home, it’s about an hour, temp gauge rose maybe a couple of mm at traffic lights.  Not one issue, brakes are awesome, trans feels great. Got almost home, maybe a km to go and the fuel pressure dropped, pulled over and she stalled.  Bit of a head scratch, opened the bonnet felt the fuel rails and they were very hot.  Rang Phil, vapour lock he said instantly, let it cool down it will start.

    So cut a long story short, walked the 5 mins home, disappointed she didn’t make it, chatted to Suesy and Matt then he drove me to the car, hit the key, started immediately, ran perfect.  So it was I think the heat, but also that we at the moment have the pump running at max.  Maybe over an hours driving at 40 was taking the piss.

    Anyway it’s home, took my son for a drive, he couldn’t stop laughing, I just have it maybe 1/3 throttle from walking speed and it laid two black lines in an instant.  I think at just about any speed in any gear it will spin the rears.  Two 10″ strips looked pretty cool.  Surpringly excluding the fuel pump whine it’s relatively docile, stomp the loud pedal though and it gets busy very quickly.  Disappointed with the vapour lock, but stoked it drives so nice.

    #480
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
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    Well, just been for my first gentle drive up and back outside the tuners.  The brakes still have all the paint on the discs etc so it all needs to be bedded in, plus the wheel alignment etc isn’t sorted.  Gave it a couple of half squirts though, its bloody insane.  I think I have won over some cred with the tuner, he made a point of telling me there were no leaks from anything at all.  Its off to the wheel aligner on a flat bed tomorrow, then I am driving it home.  The tuner wants me to drive it a bit, get it all loosened up, then once I have just tidied up a couple of small things take it back to him for a full dyno pull, so sorry you guys are going to have to wait a little more.  Here’s a couple of vids I took though, still on a crappy iPhone though.  When I walk down the back of the car you can hear how nice it sounds I think.

    #479
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    Ran it myself this morning, sounds bloody epic, then got Phil to quickly fire it while I took a crappy phone vid.  Off to Willall tomorrow morning after Phil gets a chance to just tidy up   couple of things, then a full tune and hopefully some longer better vids.  Got goose bumps starting it though, she is rather loud and cranky, sounds tuff as fark :)

    #478
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    Apologies for all the posts, should have made a reality TV show ha ha.  Got the console out, and modified to mount the three Auto Meter gauges Santa brought me.  I actually took a long time to decide on what ones to ask him for.  I cut and pasted images of all the different types to see how they would look.  Initially I though black would look best, but I just kept coming back to the simple clean purposeful look of these.  I ended up going for a staggered plate, just orientates them a little nicer to the driver.  Had to make up a horizontal plate above them and painted it satin black so it looks nice and neat.  Put my trade wiring and soldering skills to use, the looms are out of the back of the console labelled so the auto elect can finish them.  Also got the sender unit for the oil pressure mounted in the filter mount.

    #477
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    Looks like Adam has come through with the loom, its on its way over, hopefully with the correct plugs.  Nailed a heap of stuff today.  Started off with swapping all the boot latch and wiring to the new boot from my old one.  With the help of the diagram posted by VSClubby355 was actually a lot easier than I imagined.  Couldn’t for the life of me find the small cable that goes from the main loom to the boot solenoid but a quick trip to UPI sorted that.  So the rear is all finished (yay).  Also filled the engine with oil and calibrated my custom dipstick as per Cantons recommendations.  That involved filling with 5.2l of oil, letting it settle, adjusting the length of the dipstick to read full, then adding another litre of oil.  After the initial start up once the oil has filled and the filter, cooler etc is full, it just needs to be topped back to the full level. Also got is down off the hoist, fitted my new bonnet release cable, got a little ocd and modified one of my nice chrome brake line clamps that were left over to suit and used it instead of the OE clamp.  Looks neat but truthfully no one will ever see it.  Went to Repco, and bought a pair of heater hoses with the right angle bend, they fit really well, I wanted to not go braided as I want then to not be noticed, really happy with how they worked out as I was a bit worried they would look crappy but they look like they are meant to be there.  And lastly made another trip to UPI (car heaven??), trying to find nice condition washer nozzles for the bonnet.  I couldn’t they are all grey and crappy looking, and they aren’t available from GM.  Rang Frank, and he said to give them a light “dusting” of satin black, “less is more” he said, gotta say they turned out perfect (he is a bloody wizz)  Also have painted the wiper arms, so should get them on tomorrow.  Also fitted my one little personalised touch to the back.  Seriously is starting to look like a car. I think it will settle another 1/2 inch or so once its driven so will sit ever so slightly lower.   And to all those dipshits who have said to me over the last couple of years “why do this to a bloody Commodore” or variations on that theme, why don’t you take a long hard look at the rear shot below and tell me it doesn’t look tuff as ****.  I am so looking forward to driving it.

    #476
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
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    Really feel like I am powering along now, maybe its the sight of the finish line not too far away :)  Using my new found tig welding skills made up a nice bracket to hold the radiator overflow.  Also Agentcrm did an awesome job of the fuel rail brackets I designed up,  all I had to do was polish them up on the buff, just waiting to get the proper stainless screws but I think it looks schmick.  Still finishing off the breather hoses and catch tank, but also plumbed the head pressure bleed line.  Also managed to find some push on trumpet screens, i like them, they will at least do for now to stop small children being sucked into the intake.  Still cant really seem to get a good pic, it just doesn’t look as busy in real life as it does in the photos.  Here’s a few I took anyhow for posterity.

    #475
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    Well exhaust done and dusted.  Been a bit of an epic, but really happy with how it has turned out.  Thought I would do a bit of a more detailed write up in case it’s of any use to anyone else doing their own. It certainly is a big job, it actually reminds me of doing the auto transmission.  It’s not that it’s particularly difficult or hard, but it’s not that easy either, and it is quite time, consuming.  It’s a lot of head scratching, cutting the pipe, cleaning the cut,  tacking it, getting under the car for a trial fit, then moving onto the next piece.  Occasionally you finish one of the pipes and realise it would be better maybe rotated or angled a degree or so, so it’s a case of cutting off the tacks and changing it.  Getting under the car to check, then back out again to fully weld etc.  I am sure anyone reading this who has done is nodding in agreement right now.  I reckon I have spent maybe 40-50 hours on it, but that does include teaching myself to tig weld.  If I did another I would definitely be much quicker.

    Material
    I decided to buy the mufflers, cats, pipes and tube off DiPhillipo.  I really liked the look of their centre mufflers in particular.  The gear they supplied is 409 series stainless steel.  One of the benefits of this grade is its magnetic, which is very useful when clamping it etc while you are fabbing it up.  The downside is when polished it doesn’t achieve the mirror finish of 300 series.  For me that’s not an issue.  My car is not going to be  trailer queen, so first time I run it will discolour anyway, but it is something to consider.  If I did it again, I maybe would have bought pre-polished bends and tube, just to save some time and effort, and that way I would have only had to clean the weld zone.

    DiPhillipo
    I was really happy with the quality of the DiPhillipo mufflers cats, and the mandrel bends (as they should be) were spot on.  I do have to say I wasn’t overly impressed with their after sales service.  I tried to contact them a couple of times with questions with various degrees of success.  I also think given they knew I was making my own exhaust, they could have suggested/included some stainless bar to hang the mufflers, also their flanges are basically rough profile cut.  I needed to hit them with a flap disc to get them to look schmick.  I am not rubbishing DiPhillipo, but on the other hand it wasn’t terrible but I did want to mention it, $1,800 id not a small amount of money.

    Finish
    I played around a lot to work out the way I wanted to finish the polishing.  I tried quite a few things, but in the end settled on a brushed stainless kind of look.  Bunning’s sell a 3M rotary scotch bright style of pad, it was excellent for cleaning it up, and overall gave it a nice uniform look which is what I was looking for.  So with some fine flap discs in the grinder your away.

    Cost
    The quotes I got were around the $4,500 mark.  Now I am sure for that sort of money it would have been better than I have achieved, not sure how much though.  I bought all the bends, mufflers, tube and cats delivered to my door for $1,800.  I reckon add in about an extra $200 for consumables like welding rods, gas etc, so it cost $2,000.  I bought the TIG for $800, it’s a middle of the road, TIG/STICK inverter welder, you can pay less, and considerable more, but it easily handled the job.  So I reckon I am still way out in front even factoring in the purchase of the welder.  Of course the flipside is the time I spent.  I can see where the cost is to have it done.  But in my opinion you can save a chunk of cash doing it yourself.

    TIG Welding
    Anybody out there considering buying a tig, I would highly recommend it.  You just have so much control over the heat, once you get the hang of it, I really wouldn’t do it any other way.  My welds at the end were of course way way better than when I started.  I made the decision not to grind them at all, so what you see is what you get.  I am really pretty chuffed to be truthful, particularly some of the tougher welds say where the pipes met the flanges.  Its very relaxing tig welding, as someone has said, just a good skill to have.

    Things Specific to the VR
    Where my exhaust ran, one of the pipes pretty much is directly under the hand brake mechanism.  I used an air saw to trim off the underside seam of it to clear, then texture coated it so it looks neat.
    Also it’s a reasonably tight fit for the rear barrel muffler with my drop tank.  I dressed the spare wheel carrier side over with a hammer then also texture coated it so it looks neat.

    The big issue for my car was the size of the 12 bolt diff.  Not only is it bigger in diameter, but it is also much longer and with bigger strengthening ribs.  It makes the driver’s side pipe a tight fit, but it does fit.

    I positioned my middle mufflers first.  I set them so there is about a hand depths gap between the floor and top of the muffler.  I then used the bottom of the muffler as the lowest height.  None of the other pipe is lower than that, I figured if the bottom of the mufflers is that low, it won’t hurt if nothing is lower.

    My car has a very heavy duty tail haft centre bearing and custom mount plate.  I ended up countersinking the mounting plate and used counter sunk socket head cap screws to make sure there was no chance of them rubbing on the pipe work.

    I decide to use all the standard OE mounting blocks, that includes the rear figure 8 hangers.  I just didn’t want to change the car, I will keep an eye on them, if needed I will change the later although it seems pretty solid.

    What I Used
    ·    A mixture of 45 and 90 degree bends, actually I never used the 90’s, I cut them up as 45s
    ·    About 2m of straight pipe
    ·    DiPhillipo side in/side out middle mufflers, and duel in/out rear barrel muffler
    ·    200 cpi DiPhillipo cats
    ·    3M scotch bright style rotary clean up disc
    ·    4″ thin angle grinder cut off discs, for cutting through tacks when changing it.
    ·    Set of magnetic welding clamps.
    ·    4″ fine flap disc for cleaning up the flanges etc.
    ·    I ended up using a 50mm round sanding barrel attachment for my air die grinder to remove the burr of the internal side of the pipe after cutting.
    ·    I used my 300mm Makita cut off saw, I bought an iron free new blade before I started.

    Here’s a few photos of the finished article.

    #472
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
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    Posts: 5 777
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    Wasn’t going to post as was going to wait until it was all done but got so much done over the last few days wanted to post at least a bit of progress.  Finished off the collectors during the week, some of the welds on them tested me, should get them back from ceramic coating this Wednesday.  On Thursday Suesy and the kids were out so got a night to my own.  Went out at 5:30, came in after 9 no tea and no break, just getting into and having fun, tig welding I have to say I am finding is a little addictive.  Got 90% of the pipes welded, I feel as though I am really starting to get the hang of it.  Yesterday and today got all the flanges welded up to the cats, also the rear mufflers flanges etc  Polished it all up, then really like the brushed look for my car so as a last go over went over it with a scotch brite rotary pad, gave a great even finish.  Tacked up the dual rear pipes, they are not fully welded or polished yet, also still also have to do the H pipe.  I reckon by the end of next week end hopefully the exhaust is all done and dusted.

    #471
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    Have had an annual leave day today as I wasn’t sure what time we would make it back from Bendigo, as it turns out got back reasonable time.  Got pretty much finished and tacked.  Have run out of a couple of bends for the very last section out, but have an idea how I want that, will be pretty simple.  Have to say the exhaust has been a really enjoyable job.  Once i got over the “shit what have I done” actually its not easy but not hard, just a case of thinking it through, tacking it, and changing it if it needs.  Happy with the clearance all round, can easily get my hand everywhere, if I shake the crap out of it it’s nowhere near hitting, time of course will tell.  Will get a couple of elbows and finish the rear, also the H pipe, then sit down and start to fully weld it, will be interesting.

    #460
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
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    Thought I would throw these up, I am going to Bendigo swap meet tomorrow morning, so I wont get anything done on the week end.  My wife has gone to her Spanish class so I thought I would just have a quick play.  Never ceases to amaze me how much you get done when your on a roll.  Have got the passenger side rear pipe done, worked nice, was going to stop at that but came up with an idea how to go across the diff.  Have used a bend, and got it curved down around the nose of the housing, hard to tell from the photos but came up sweet.  The bottom of the bend is only as low as the bottom of the mufflers so it should work well.

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