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Has anyone setup the electric astra power steering pump yet? Is it compatible with vn p/s rack?
Would be cheaper to just run the converter box. @$500
yup, but is it needed with an aftermarket ecu…
Does an after market ECU prevent the need to swap reluctor wheels and the lingelfelter converter? (so i can run cable throttle on an ls3)
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This reply was modified 7 years, 12 months ago by
VN304.
thx for the replies, I’ve decided ill be hunting around for someone elses unfinished LS commo project and commit to the swap for the vn if something comes up
Not being able to do the work myself, starting the conversion from scratch with new/near new parts is going to cost at least 17g after everything is done including all the little things we forget about.
any updates?
Whats needed to get the speedo and tacho working right again?
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This reply was modified 8 years, 6 months ago by
yeah youre right.. ill just have to find a way to live with it
I just cut the bracket and rewelded it so the last coil is on an angle, I’m using a VZ booster which is bigger again. A little bit of work saves you $500 right there, I also run the thicker Spacer gaskets for the YT roller rockers and it all still fits in.
It looks like its been moved up a little. I can barely notice it TBH
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This reply was modified 8 years, 6 months ago by
Curious why you’re deleting the Booster?
Coil pack is in the way of the booster and has to be moved & mounted on the pack in front of it
looks like a backyard job to me, and doing it won’t let me fit the LS1 engine cover
i might change my mind last minute because of the cost involved.
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This reply was modified 8 years, 6 months ago by
This is my parts list for my mechanic, let me know if something is out of place
Complete Ls1 + T56 including Ecu
velocityauto tuff engine mounts
CRS ls1/t56 gearbox crossmember + rubber mount
CRS lS1 left hand starter motor conversion kit
Pacemaker VN LS1 headers
CRS LS1 high mount airconditioner kit
CRS high mount Alternator kit
CRS fuel rail adaptor to 3/8″ fuel line
CRS brake master cylinder 15/16 (removes booster)
bosch 044 external fuel pump
Malwood underdash hydraulic clutch pedal assembly
CRS ls1/T56 conversion loom
including my engine budget, this comes in at around 10g not including postage
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This reply was modified 8 years, 6 months ago by
What state you in? Engineering isnt that big a deal if you do stuff sensibly which sounds like you are
SA mate. Im not spending thousands on the same type of engine, especially when it won’t be modded. Im doing this instead of wasting more on getting a 355 holden, which the T5 will just die with. May aswell go LS1, and get something so much better.
I did the brakes a few years ago, 320mm or something close. Suspension is bilstein, front coilovers, adjustable swaybars, camber tops, ive had some welding done as well to stiffen things up etc.
its had alot of work done.
These are the pacemakers, they are what I had on at first, they fitted perfectly. On mine I cut and made my own collectors to take them to 3″ only because of the power mine makes, but they would be ideal if your not chasing megawatts of power http://www.pacemaker.com.au/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=122&virtuemart_category_id=27 All the info is in my build thread if you have few hours of your life to waste, its bloody long, but i did try to put a lot of detail into my posts. I am more than happy to share everything I learned doing mine. I assume you are getting it engineered?
Perfect. I’ll use these with the tuff mounts
na, no engineering, dont have time for that BS.
however i did do a brake/suspension upgrade already to handle the increase.
Given everything involved in the swap, which isn’t hard, just a lot of work/things, notching the sump or modifying the K frame to give more clearance is pretty simple. Steering to header clearance is tight I reckon in them all, that’s another reason for giving the sump clearance it means you can move the engine around a little to get that right. If you don’t do the sump you are pretty much stuck where the engine is, if that makes sense. I have an Astra ps pump I am going to fit (haven’t yet) its really is as simple as hooking up power and the hoses, and mounting it. Cant answer the question re the clutch as mines auto. Personally if you haven’t started yet if it needs it I would swap the reluctor wheel on the crank and do away with the Lingenfelter box. I have one, imo its just another thing to go wrong and mount. Again given all the work swapping the reluctor is just another thing to do on the list. If I did mine again I would, in fact if I ever have the engine out I will swap it over. Malwood I have heard is good, when you sat CSR do you mean CRS, i.e. Castlemain Rod Shop? Imo their headers are not very good. Imo if you are not chasing huge power the Pacemaker headers are the go. Even with them I made 508rwhp. They just fit. If you don’t like them go for the CRE headers, they at least have slip on collectors so are better. I highly recommend using Tuff mounts, as they limit engine movement, yes they are expensive but imo worth every cent. I use the original rubber trans mount, its a good compromise of smoothness and engine stability. There just isn’t much room/clearance to play with, so engine movement is a big issue, you will find it harder to stop it knocking the exhaust if you use rubber engine mounts. Hope that helps.
Where do I go for the pacemaker headers youve mentioned?
And were the tuff mounts from velocity auto?
Thanks for clarifying the astra pump issue, its going to make a world of difference and room in the bay… is there a particular model I need… they seem to be around the 200 – 300 mark on ebay…
Apart from the above Q, im pretty confident this will be helpful for my mechanic and save a lot of headaches.
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This reply was modified 8 years, 6 months ago by
I didn’t have to notch my sump. It just made it.
ok thats good news
I won’t let the sump issue concern me then.
Hi mate, welcome along. Its a great conversion. I wrote this up a while back after doing mine, I reckon its a good place start if you haven’t read it already? After that post any questions you have mate and there are a few of us on here who have don this conversion, from basic LS1, LSx454, LSA etc etc.
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Thanks for the link, its answered a few Q’s but i still need clarification on a few things
If im buying a later model LS and want to keep Cable throttle, I make sure I use the matching ECU with a lingenfelter converter? I think i found it on there website…. 58x to 28x crank sensor trigger conversion yeah?
Instead of hunting for a VS series 3 hydraulic clutch pedal, will the malwood underdash hydraulic pedal assembly be the same thing I need?
The Astra electric powersteering pump has caught my attention. Do you know whats involved in getting it installed? I can’t see how it would be difficult… just hoses & lines and finding a place to mount it?
I spoke to my mechanic about the sump issue, he believes he can avoid modifying anything by using spacers with the mounts… if thats true, why isn’t anyone doing it? Every K-frame and sump is modded in someway to make clearance that ive seen
Incase its been missed, i’ll be getting the majority of my parts from CSR and malwood. They seem to have the best track record.
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This reply was modified 7 years, 12 months ago by
