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  • #17590
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    TUFGMH
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    What a flash back. Remember following this then having it drop off the radar. Good to see it is mobile again.

    #17377
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    TUFGMH
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    Still yet to have an issue thanks.

    #17306
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    TUFGMH
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    Tierod/ball-joint separators are cheap and pay themselves off on the first set of reusable bushes.

    I got one of these and works alright. It wont do the ball joint in a commodore though, only tie rod.

    http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Toledo-Ball-Joint-Separator-135mm-311274.aspx?pid=SPO84267#Recommendations

    #17205
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    TUFGMH
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    I haven’t had an issue since reporting, will update if it does come into play again ;)

    #17078
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    TUFGMH
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    All good, thought i’d give the heads up ;)

    #17006
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    TUFGMH
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    Amazed I didn’t pick up some of the photo locations earlier being an ex local lol. The car has come along well. Very neat all over. Should be easy to quieten down.

    3.9s seem to go well with a 6speed. Seems to use less fuel as well in the heavier Commodores on cruise.

    The car sits right for the sleeper look ;)

    #17005
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    TUFGMH
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    I get it on the odd occasion but not for a while now.

    This is the only forum that does it amongst the 10-15 I browse, cheers.

    How do you find the time for that !!

    Nightshift can get a bit quiet every now and again lol. This is one of 5 that get checked regularly, the others are whenever it’s quiet.

    #15510
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    TUFGMH
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    Does your powder coater have any issues doing the 3 piece v5s? I’ve been thinking of getting some of my Simmons 3 piece done but have been unsure on how to go about it in terms of masking off the mating faces etc so they don’t get a build up of powder where they need to mate. Will you be re-assembling them yourself?

    The areas can be masked during coating and tape removed before the oven. I had the area described taped as well as where the badge goes into the wheel. Lucky I cracked a cap assembling the first round when they were the wrong colour and was able to rectify during recoating. I was going to reassemble myself but will drop them off to a wheel repairer this week to polish the outers, silicon, reassemble and fit tyres back on.

    #15401
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    TUFGMH
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    Look great, but the die-hards will have a heart attack due to the fins facing the wrong way lol.

    #14273
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    TUFGMH
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    My mate used an aftermarket setup from a VX Commodore which uses the original module. Two of the push buttons to the left of the dash have been utilised for the setup.

    The original cruise button on the column is on/off and cancel

    The left switch on dash is accelerate and has the light behind it working as “Cruise” light and comes on when cruise is on, the right light is the “Active” light and comes on when you set it with the button in front of it, this button also works as the reduce speed if held. I will put up a video later, but quickly give a run through of a sequence using the above.

    Driving along, I press the original button to activate which lights up the cruise light, then press the right button on the dash to set when desired speed is reached. To cancel, I press the original column button. To turn off, I press the original button once more.

    It kicks down as per normal and engine brakes, disengages by pressing brake pedal, but as there is no ABS module, there is no brake assist.

    #14229
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    TUFGMH
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    The suspension is one of the first priorities lol. The weight difference in front of the firewall must play on the SL springs.

    #14188
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    TUFGMH
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    It come under VSI6 when done so only required a blue slip for the engine change ;)

    #14163
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    TUFGMH
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    Will be great to see it done.

    #13660
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    TUFGMH
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    Great times and a tidy ride ;)

    #11410
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    TUFGMH
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    20nm, will have to track down the sequence here on paper I got from the local Simmons rep from years ago before starting.

    • This reply was modified 9 years ago by Profile photo of TUFGMH TUFGMH.
    #11369
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    TUFGMH
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    I will give them a go myself first. After dropping $750 on polishing the 5 SLE rims, it is probably time to save some money on these lol.

    #11349
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    TUFGMH
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    I split them myself as I wanted fresh bolts at the same time, plus it make polishing the outers easier. Might even go with new outers yet depending on cost.

    #11306
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    TUFGMH
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    Powdercoating should have been around $400, but got it done a lot cheaper, to the point I couldn’t have got them sandblasted alone anywhere for less. After doing the whole prep, prime, and paint previously, this seemed a better way to go, drop off Monday, pickup Wednesday.

    The V5’s will be a darker shade. I would have been happy with the original except that the inside of the spokes weren’t cleaned well during their life and the yellow stain was impeded into those parts. Because of the smaller surface compared to FR20’s or similar, I felt a slightly darker shade then Mercury would be needed to contrast.

    #11269
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    TUFGMH
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    Not much done of late due to house renos, but the stock pile of parts are lining up for a good weekend to fully redo underneath the car. I sent anything that was black, underneath the car and in the engine bay off to Narellan Powdercoating including the diff. It was all done in gloss black and come back looking sharp. The diff was rebuilt to the original spec besides 3.08:1 gears.

     

     

    Bought some 16x8inch V5’s and split them for powdercoating. Only pain was that the little colour chip that looked gunmetal grey in the office ended up having an army green tinge to it:

     

     

    Also polished up one of the two sets of SLE rim’s

     

     

    Got Westend Performance to tickle up a set of VL heads for me to better spec than the B cast and flogged the B cast ones off. The motor should be assembled shortly and painted in 2pac “GMH new engine blue”

    #11148
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    TUFGMH
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    Looking great so far ;)

Viewing 20 posts - 41 through 60 (of 85 total)