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Finally found this thread. Don’t know why it took so long. Glad you got the steering shaft sorted.
Also, I was the third person willing to admit I was eyeing this shell off on Ebay haha.
Only I didn’t have the space at the time.
Sorry for the delayed response, but yes Gary that link you posted from Geforce is exactly what I meant.
I’m glad others have done it and as such it gives me the confidence to hack into it and give it a whirl. Thanks very much for following it up.
I have nolathane cradle bushes already so that’s no problem. Think I’ll finally fit a nolathane diff bush as well.
Building arms like that is actually quite easy. Build a jig for the mounting points, cut up a few bits of plate, bust out the TIG. Rock and Roll.
Could even go something like this but on the inner arm. (These were used on a mini-tubbed IRS arrangement for more tyre clearance)
Would have great, solid adjustment on it. Haven’t thought about it enough to determine if the ‘cam’ style adjustment on the aftermarket bushes is required versus the heim length only adjustment.
If i’m going to the effort of re-welding the front mounts, i’ll need to mod the rear mount also.
Which brings me back to my arm mounting modification thoughts
Would definitely not support using the above method on a commodore – there is next to no structural capacity in that area.
Either use an engine crane (and be mindful of hydraulic bleed down) or use a solid packer on the ground.
Shouldn’t be too difficult in any case.
Harder to do a checker pattern but epoxy paint sealer kits are great in that they are easy to clean. Having one consistent colour improves the appearance of the shed, and having a gloss on it also reflects the light, making the area seem brighter.
Is this a dedicated drag car or is engineering/road worthiness an issue? How fast are you going?
Not that quick. Down the line (one day) i’d like to be able to nudge high 10’s but the next step is to get closer to an 11. I’m just sick of chopping out the inside of the tyres while having literally un-touched outer edges.
The car wouldn’t pass RWC now due to a number of reasons.
Sorry mate, now I get it. Your essentially trying to get the nominal camber/toe to suit your (lower) “normal” ride height. I was thinking it was the drive shaft angle that was the issue. Still buzzing in my head a little though, if somehow we could move/mount the whole K frame higher up in the chassis, essentially your lowering the car but keeping the same suspensions geometry. You also get a lower ride height but with a longer spring so better ride etc.
The biggest issue I would see with this is the forward mounts – there is no way to move these up easily without modifying the floor – something I don’t want to do.
Experimenting with a K-frame, on the other hand, is pretty much an exercise is using my own time.
As the arms move through their range of motion in compression, the amount of camber and toe in increases; Lowered cars have their typical operating range down at the position of greater camber/toe.
If you alter the position of the inner arm bushes you can ‘twist’ the arms back into a position with less camber and toe (trying to bring it back to the geometry of standard ride height or better). Ideally I’d like 0 deg camber and as close to 0 toe as possible; this is a straight-line car only.
Conversely this means that at ‘standard’ ride height you could have positive camber and toe out. Not stressed about that part.
I bought TCI pan for my T700. It gave an additional litre of fluid capacity, cooling fins and a drain plug. I then tapped a 1/8″ NPT thread into the pan, as it was cast aluminium and had plenty of wall thickness.
Was around $250 from memory.
If using a steel pan, put the drain plug at the rear (diff end) as the engine and trans has a slight tilt to the back. Temp sender can go anywhere, the lower in the pan the better.
Trust me when I say I was more baffled than you.
They just kept coming.
I’m going to ask a really obvious question here: Did you get it re-tuned after the manifold change? Because the manifold change will make a big difference. If you haven’t then it’ll be running really lean which will account for your miss.
Probably a misfire. Check your dizzy and rotor button.
A lot of what people are saying won’t make a whole lot of sense until you go for a drive in a car with a decent converter to experience it. It’s hard to tell the difference in feel on paper.
Maybe try and tee up a drive?
Looks great – I like the front lip extension.
Agreed with above – i had a 3000rpm dominator off the shelf and now this 4200rpm off the shelf. The dominator was a bit tighter, but neither of the convertors are what you would call ‘tight’.
However i paid $300 for the dominator then straight swapped it to some low life for the 4200 so I can’t complain.
Nowhere near as much as you are, it’s the spool that was elongating them over time.
Don’t have to lift heads on Holden V8 either.
I’ve never had issues with intake manifold gaskets. They’re easy.Agreed – i run a 4200rpm flash stall on the street in mine. Still has lockup.
If it was factory stall then it’d easily knock a second off the quarter mile time and be boring to drive.
Secret to a good street stall is to set it to lockup at or slightly above peak torque, but make sure it’s a tight stall, so you can potter around in it as you need.
Most people use VR/S arms on VQ/P to allow the use of most 42P standard GM wheels. I know I had issues with my old VT GTS rims hitting the inner guards on my VQ with factory arms.
