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August 24, 2016 at 10:27 am #19258
I actually have Aeroflow all through mine, I know it has a bad rap but so far no issues.
I’ve got a variety of fittings around the place. I measured up some of the earlier “-6” fittings from Aeroflow and Proflow (straight connectors about 5 years old) and they were 1.0mm smaller on the I.D. than Speedflow -6 (i.e. 8.5mm vs 9.5mm). I’ll be using a combination of teflon hose and hardline under the car also to try and reduce costs. Before I bought the car 12 odd years ago some muppet crushed the factory fuel lines on the sill so they’re about half the size they should be.
However for the breather system I’ll be building later on I’ll be using literal China-bay -10 fittings and cheap push lock. I’m not shelling out $400 or more for breather system hoses.
Thanks for the tip on the oil stop leak. I’ll probably do nothing until I pull the motor though, knowing me.
August 23, 2016 at 12:31 pm #19231Hahaha sh!t that thing’s slammed.
August 23, 2016 at 12:28 pm #19230I’ve been replacing the Summit Racing brand hose and fittings, not because they’ve failed or anything but because my garage is attached to my house – after a drive half the house smells like fuel (and oil, but we already talked about that).
Stating the obvious – Speedflow 200 series really adds up quickly…
August 23, 2016 at 12:26 pm #19229SO in an effort to try and fix the rear main leak I’ve done absolutely nothing related to it and started re-doing my fuel system.
Boot side is almost done, just some minor items. Then it’s on to under car items
Also just bought an NVRAM and USB Comms Kit for the ECU so I can learn to tune this nugget before I pull the motor. At least, tune it enough so I can run a new cam in.
August 19, 2016 at 2:17 pm #19138…Also wont be running a front sway bar for now. Next event is 27th of august. will see how it goes…
If you’re expecting it to take any corners remotely well, this won’t help…
August 17, 2016 at 2:34 pm #19089What’s a bit of MEK between friends, really?
August 12, 2016 at 9:04 am #18990For my own future reference:
225/60R15 tyre (25.6″ tall), 3rd gear, 4.11 gears, 6200rpm, 106.5mph = 7.92% Convertor Slip
August 11, 2016 at 3:50 pm #18979Great work!
August 11, 2016 at 11:11 am #18973Just checking you have the correct (bubble) flare on those brake lines into the VT Master? If it’s the factory double flare then you really should have the adaptors on there. They’re only a couple of bucks from Race Brakes Sydney.
I didn’t have them on my setup for a few years (typical ‘she’ll be right’ approach that I often take) and of course it started weeping at the worst time – whilst on the track at PCM.
August 9, 2016 at 2:36 pm #18933That’s what playing with cars is – you win some, you lose some. I got the car home and still had a good day out – can’t complain.
LS has definitely crossed my mind, but I don’t want to commit to anything right now. Life dictates many competing financial demands!
August 9, 2016 at 11:00 am #18930OK so a small update.
I have been overseas for a month with work and flat chat on other things in life so not much has happened with this of late. When I came back from my trip, despite the car being on a trickle charger, the Exide battery finally called it quits, (Of course this happened while I had the car at the shops!) so it now has an Optima Red Top. It starts like a champ now.
I also found that some of the ‘temporary’ fuel line work I had done about 7 years ago was now starting to show signs of failure (in the form of fuel leaking in my boot) so I ordered a bunch of 200 series speedflow to fix the problem. I stopped the leak so that I could take the car to Heathcote on Sunday last for a bit of fun with a few mates. It was a great day to be out but definitely no luck on the track. Both the left and right lane was like driving on ice for me. I had far less traction than I get on even a damp public road, meaning the best I could pull was a 13.4 for the day (nearly a second off my PB). I don’t have traction issues at Calder but this is the 2 from 2 for this issue at Heathcote. The next problem was that the 4.11’s now have me riding limiter (6200 on the stock bottom end) over the line, meaning I was down nearly 2mph. If I was at Calder I’d have probably just bumped the limiter to 6500 and made a glory pass, but it’s a long tow from Heathcote. All in all, fail.
On the way home my extraordinarily leaky rear main (which has been leaky for probably 5 years ) finally called it a day. It was like a James Bond smoke screen. I’ll be surprised if I don’t get EPA’d.
So now I’m not sure where to go from here. I’m going to keep working on the fuel system, then move to the electrics to tidy up some stuff but as far as the drivetrain goes I’m not sure. It’s not as fast as I want and I have to consider my options from here.
August 5, 2016 at 11:04 am #18883As above. Had my diff built by Luke as well.
Will be going back when I need my diff built in the VN.
July 22, 2016 at 12:49 pm #18644Dead stock V6 driveline with 245 wide 19’s.
Too much grip!
July 21, 2016 at 2:38 pm #18634hahah which one handles better throwing hoops
The VN couldn’t do a hoop in the wet on an oil covered road
July 20, 2016 at 9:04 am #18608I recently installed the low pressure, high flow Pierburg E85 in tank pump. Wasn’t too hard to install, though this was in a VN-VS style setup.
July 20, 2016 at 8:55 am #18606Also I should qualify the bolt issue – With the splines engaged in the eccentric, it takes some decent hammer blows to get it out. I’m not stressed with the bolt falling out, more just keeping the lock nut on there for safety.
July 20, 2016 at 8:54 am #18605LOL Peasant IRS
Having both IRS and Live Axle 1991 cars in my garage right now (and having driving both back to back last night on the same roads), the IRS is leaps and bounds ahead in handling and ride comfort. It’s not a perfect setup but with the tweaks I’ve put into mine I’m now finally happy with it. It doesn’t thump and jar, even with SSSLs in it. The VN has SL’s in it and is much harsher. Now I’ve sorted out the grip issue – Happy days.
July 19, 2016 at 4:29 pm #18584Be aware that with mine, to assist in getting the geometry right, I basically used new metal over the top of cut down existing metal to make a doubler plate. This also helps with the tearing of the mounting holes (which you’ve experienced also). However it means that the splined camber bolts are just barely long enough to engage the nut the full thread width. It’s not ideal but now part of my maintenance inspection.
July 19, 2016 at 4:25 pm #18583Go nuts.
Honestly it’s been a great modification to the car. First gear is properly usable now. In the past, any heavy throttle application in first just ended in slip. Sounds like fun but after a while it gets irritating.
Be aware it’s not the easiest thing to get right (i.e. it’s fiddly) and you need to make sure you get the opening for the trailing arm bush right otherwise your clearances will be up the creek. Time will tell if I’ve made problems for myself
June 1, 2016 at 4:32 pm #17428….is sort of inferring two cars that make 600HP have the same torque…
If it is at the same RPM then, yes, they both have the same torque :bye: (Power = Torque x RPM /5252)
Couldn’t help myself there.
I think you’re talking about area under the curve, which is what defines the driveability in the terms of your argument above. A peaky curve isn’t nearly as good to drive as a tabletop curve.
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