CommodoresPlus

If i’m going to the effort of re-welding the front mounts, i’ll need to mod the rear mount also.

Which brings me back to my arm mounting modification thoughts

Would definitely not support using the above method on a commodore – there is next to no structural capacity in that area.

Either use an engine crane (and be mindful of hydraulic bleed down) or use a solid packer on the ground.

Shouldn’t be too difficult in any case.

Harder to do a checker pattern but epoxy paint sealer kits are great in that they are easy to clean. Having one consistent colour improves the appearance of the shed, and having a gloss on it also reflects the light, making the area seem brighter.

Harder to do a checker pattern but epoxy paint sealer kits are great in that they are easy to clean. Having one consistent colour improves the appearance of the shed, and having a gloss on it also reflects the light, making the area seem brighter.

Not that quick. Down the line (one day) i’d like to be able to nudge high 10’s but the next step is to get closer to an 11. I’m just sick of chopping out the inside of the tyres while having literally un-touched outer edges.

The car wouldn’t pass RWC now due to a number of reasons.

The biggest issue I would see with this is the forward…[Read more]

As the arms move through their range of motion in compression, the amount of camber and toe in increases;  Lowered cars have their typical operating range down at the position of greater camber/toe.

If you alter the position of the inner arm bushes you can ‘twist’ the arms back into a position with less camber and toe (trying to bring it back to…[Read more]

I bought TCI pan for my T700. It gave an additional litre of fluid capacity, cooling fins and a drain plug. I then tapped a 1/8″ NPT thread into the pan, as it was cast aluminium and had plenty of wall thickness.

Was around $250 from memory.

If using a steel pan, put the drain plug at the rear (diff end) as the engine and trans has a slight…[Read more]

Trust me when I say I was more baffled than you.

They just kept coming.

I’m going to ask a really obvious question here: Did you get it re-tuned after the manifold change? Because the manifold change will make a big difference. If you haven’t then it’ll be running really lean which will account for your miss.

Probably a misfire. Check your dizzy and rotor button.

A lot of what people are saying won’t make a whole lot of sense until you go for a drive in a car with a decent converter to experience it. It’s hard to tell the difference in feel on paper.

Maybe try and tee up a drive?

Looks great – I like the front lip extension.

Agreed with above – i had a 3000rpm dominator off the shelf and now this 4200rpm off the shelf. The dominator was a bit tighter, but neither of the convertors are what you would call ‘tight’.

However i paid $300 for the dominator then straight swapped it to some low life for the 4200 so I can’t complain.

Nowhere near as much as you are, it’s the spool that was elongating them over time.

Don’t have to lift heads on Holden V8 either.
I’ve never had issues with intake manifold gaskets. They’re easy.

Agreed – i run a 4200rpm flash stall on the street in mine. Still has lockup.

If it was factory stall then it’d easily knock a second off the quarter mile time and be boring to drive.

Secret to a good street stall is to set it to lockup at or slightly above peak torque, but make sure it’s a tight stall, so you can potter around in it as you need.

Most people use VR/S arms on VQ/P to allow the use of most 42P standard GM wheels. I know I had issues with my old VT GTS rims hitting the inner guards on my VQ with factory arms.