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yep. all you have to do is swap the top section firewall side uni-joint from the vn vp vr vs onto the vl manual intermediate shaft and no more power steering leaks. will also need to replace both uni’s with new at a later date as they are stiff. next removed all suspension and dropped the kframe out of the front end ready for trial fitment.
Thanks. love the idea of big power utes.
Todays jobs trying to organise parts in order of install. So i sorted intermediate shaft and swapped vy alloy pedals pads on to the vs pedals. grabbed some more killrust and some superpro kframe front caator bushes.
every ls i have had needs a rear main and sump gasket basically as standard .
i personally wouldn’t use that plastic pre-filter. it would seem that it would only be happy submerged in fuel. the socks you get on efi pumps like the walbro 255 have a sponge like effect and draw up the fuel through it. they are really cheap aswell. i got a replacement from my local efi spares place for like $8.00
i have a cheap billet straight thermostat housing and hose to suit.
got another chance to attack the bay after lunch. 6hrs of wire wheeling and a quick spray with kill rust. atleast i can start on motor in and clearances without being afraid of scratching the paint. $30 compared to $1600.
dont mind my missed spots i ran out of cans
or the runs/ bubbles
reading around again a few people have used subaru hoses and a falcon hoses for the top. will suss out an alternative when at supercheap next.
todays job was cut off and clean up the front radiator repair section. will either be replaced with a cut section properly or try and fab a removable crossbeam after i sort the rest of the engine bay work and its all running nicely.
another thought was does the pacemakers need to run a clamp over the split join on the drivers side merge?
Bloke i work with had a ve clubsport ls2 after a vyss both 6 spd both otr exhaust and tuned. said he wished he still had the vy. was just 2 heavy and a very big difference in investment 6k compared to 28k. ended up selling the hsv and went back to a vy ss ute spent the money on cam otr and tune. dont think he misses it.
my thoughts were unless it was a ls3 you would only get a ve ss and do the basics otr cam tune. l98 is still a good motor.
suspension wise he had hsdcoilovers in both and loved it in the vy. ve went back to kings and decent shocks and said it felt heaps better. they can have weird spring rates stiff in the front but really soft in the rear for hooking up = crap in corners together.
brakes on the hsv were awesome. vy needed 330mm upgrade but was still good.
things i dislike on the ve, handbrake mechanism and cheap plastics of the interior. things i like big wheel arches and hsv seats
statesman front end conversions
cool will save my pennies they aren’t cheap but if they fit well they are on the list.
Did a test fit of the radiator and bonnet closes was a little worried as its taller than my old v6 rad. custom lower radiator support is on the plan hoping to drop it 1″ to neaten it up. au thermofans are now modified and fit. pics to come
ch1368 – the top hose looks like its very tight on the radiator top inlet. will have to identify an alternative 33mm id of hose and od of rad is 37mm. outlet on waterpump is 33mm od. will try the hot water trick first.
nice fab work looks good. shame there is no better pic of the new lower radiator support. i assume you made it with some rectangular section around the 10mmx30mm?
stripped engine bay, removing unused brackets, starting to clean up rust, not sure on how i will temp fix the tear on passenger strut tower. might use a long rectangular grommet and neaten it up.
next on the agenda is a test fit of the engine and box for clearance checking then i can go ahead and complete wire wheel, clean and por15 the bay
when i have finished the cars engineering i will get the bay holes welded up and sprayed properly. engineer hates the idea of boxed in rails or hidden sections
found crushed/pushed back radiator support. will have to cut off and replace. has anyone done a removable section. would make pulling the engine so much better.
save this post for questions
1) v6 throttle cable – compatible with ls1?
2) new black door seals who has used what and where from?
a) rarespares
3) was there much to modify using a vt/vx bonnet cable when hiding it under the guard? 19.12
4) does the pacemaker headers require a clamp at the merge on the drivers side? 23.12
absolutely, its only the initial outlay that make them harder to justify in buying especially since the standard ecu is very good and capable of over 1000hp/ flex fuel and NO2.
the only difference i can pinpoint in ls haltech ecu’s are dbw or cable and if you want the premium features
wouldnt be a problem with a haltech. cam crank and vct phasing all adjustable. only on older ecu’s was that a firmware flash ie microtech
look too the v6 conversions webpage. pretty sure it has all the info about the vats
vy ls1 engine harness is unique as it has the connections to the body loom in different places compared to the vt vx & is different again as the vz runs fbw
might have a leaner tune off boost which will run hotter maybe attributing to the glow
just had a good read of your build thread. looks like some interesting ideas.
Personally i would take another direction. Install the ecotec and gearbox, spend the money and build a quality exhaust system. Get it on the road, while gathering parts for a l67 top swap.
rebuild / port up a charger and heads, grab a decent bump stick, boost increase and put it on flex should see you around 200rwkw. easily packaged and be easy to get parts.
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This reply was modified 8 years ago by
Stevoss. Reason: coding issue- text align
dont run 1 and dose. still see many 1000hp cars with no bov
love this thread
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This reply was modified 8 years ago by
