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stock pcm you cant change this in the tune but with the likes of a haltech its as simple as a drop down box. if using the po1 ecu vt -vy ls1 ecu adapt your motor to suit with a conversion box or swap the wheels
i did the same thing and cut down my short shifter to go up straight.
t56 vss is a 12v signwave
ls1 ecu output is a 12v square wave.
pretty sure the input for the vn cluster is 12v signwave
digital dakota sells a box that can adjust the pulse width to suit your driveline to get the pulse count right.
no 4
no 3
no 2
no they are different
i made sure to get the matching intermediate shaft and am using that with only swapping the top but i just googled the power steering racks they have a different coupling so it won’t work. it would have to be the non powered intermediate lower joint.
progress has halted due to work and life plus need to save for many more parts haha.
can confirm vn vp vr vs is the same as my vp has a vs hydro pedal box in it. fair enough on being hard to find. yeah on running the vl pedal box you can just buy a bored and larger sleeved master to suit the t56. and malwood also sells an underdash conversion but expensive. good work though
just saw test results of 3x 460lph walbro pumps pulling 46amps total, so with wiring you need to supply power and earth big enough to support 20amps
any reason to not just go for a vs hydro pedal box from the start(vn-vs)/ or vl hydro pedal box for pre vn?
surprisingly this isnt the first time I have seen this done. very good example though
@judge1frazer i would think you would probably be better or using the handbrake assembly off the vy vz tonner/crewman as i would think all you would have to do is fabricate a bracket on the end of the diff
if the bolts are already loose in the hole i would think only a layer of sealant on the gaskets to try and fill the gap. loctite will only stop it working loose by itself
tap and helicoil the hole with the manifold on but jam rags down into the manifold to stop swarf entering. if the holes open into the manifold, i would pull it off to do.
fit studs- done
wow looks clean, keen for progress.
ran into problems early on 🤔
managed to get the only t56 crossmember from tuff mounts that was a friday special 😂 but contacted them and as usual no problems. will be getting a replacement 👍
a little bashing of behind the rear bank drivers side. definitely need a full length flexible clutch line and remote bleeder. will contact malwood for more details. engine seems to fit alright. trim the tab on alternator and level the fins next to it should be clearance enough.
vsmanta: not sure if its all the way down. it does look pretty high up
cava454: that pic is from Hayden’s build. yeah he had both feed and return line running along the top of the Trans tunnel upto the rails and reg.
the good news is it’s only 1 bolt just inside the firewall if i need to pull it back out after the engine is in. was worried it was going to be too long. below is a pic that was used as reference
good to know. i thought it might be too long and referenced off 2 other builds to check so i hope it’s correct. otherwise I will swap it all again.
