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Here is a lot of decent information regarding the continental flex sensor as used by GM
https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuning-54/e85-continental-flex-fuel-sensor-info-88555/
I saw someone reference a hp tuners thread/Facebook post? that dale(castle hill) was talking about having the flex sensor In the feed line?
I can only assume that you also saw it. I can’t say any of the literature(gm) or factory manuals have said that it needs to be installed in the feed. The only reasoning I could figure GM did that to all ls flex equipped vehicles was they were dead head anyway.
I did stumble across an accumulated thread below which has some technical data.
https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuning-54/e85-continental-flex-fuel-sensor-info-88555/
Is he rebuilding it himself? I had a junk housing when I built a truetrac m80 and for the extra $45 the builder supplied a core. Can he ring around diff places locally
Good cam selection and If I was staying n/a that is what I would run, but would probably run only a single chain in a good brand, I have only seen chain issues on failed tensioners in the later models.
An alternative to the housing swap is this
With my fuel line flares, I just used a brake flaring tool and did a light half flare
Hi All, Just an update i have go the speedo to read using the LS1 ecu out put. I just need to check if it is accurate.
So it did work directly, without the signal converter?
If you haven’t seen this it’s a good read and some of the inspiration.
https://www.streetmachine.com.au/features/1710/barra-engine-swap-holden-vs-commodure-ute
Fitted up the drivers side door rubber, from rare pares, really happy with the fit and quality so far. Dropped the water for the second time as I’m trying to rinse out the radiator which seems to have a slimy film, probably from manufacturing. Then drop it again and fit the fg single big twin speed fan and fill with coolant. Tidy up the radiator brackets with some decent flat bar and paint black. Make a bracket up for the for so it doesn’t just sit on the top of the rad, then send it out for powder coat.
Fitted 1 side today, made a mess on the angled cut at the join, my fault although nothing a bit of sikaflex can’t fix but really impressed with the quality so far, it’ almost the best fitting part on the car tbh. Very happy
Use existing computer from the vn, modify the loom as per the Buick to ecotec diys, and get it tuned to suit. Vs extractors and exhaust pieces to work with minimal tweaking.
Basically all the vt parts are useless, vs with l67 are better donor to start with for a conversion like this.
L67torque forum was a good resource back in the day
I just bought new rubbers from rare spares at $178 for x2, I did my research and after trauling the webs found a few bad reviews on the better auto rubber seals with feedback later on saying after a few months they were leaking and not the best.
At $60ish bucks each I just spent the extra for rare spares(wanted black but had to settle for grey). Will fit them when I get the chance and post an update
The have had The coil mounts shaved, like mine, looking fine
To finish the car: wheel alignment desperately, engineering and rego, finish the dash conversion and rewire the rest of the car, repaint side skirts and front lip. Swapping to a bf single fan, as i had to angle the radiator back to fit the otr which needed the au fans to be hacked further and i dont like how much i had to chop.
At this stage the power increase over the 6 cylinder is great, made 313rwhp when the motor was in my vt. Looking forward to getting it weighed compared to the vt it would have dropped 500kg going into the ute, with me in the vt going over the weigh bridge was about 2t, the ute used to be 1400kg with me in it.
Very happy with the clutch disengagement compared to the t5, loving the hydraulic feeling. The manual rack is unusual getting used too, went to take the first corner and needed almost twice the input for the same turning, which is also kinda scary as it gets up and boogies very fast. But that is conteracted with the new 330mm brakes and vt master which pull it up very nicely.
Performance mods to eventually follow are:
1) 3.9 gears and a true trac
2) cam, flex tune and 150 shot
3) exhaust cut outs after the cats
4) blower
i will post up more pics as i can, but finished getting it running. Had the exhaust joined from the conversion headers to a single rage 3″ exhaust with 2x 2.5″ high flow 100cel cats. Which might be good for emissions and engineering, but is definately good for the exhaust noise test.
adding to the conversion basics:
Tailshaft: vn/vs- using tuff mounts and starter relocation. tailshaft consists of cable clutch t5 tailshaft to suit your vehicle either long wheel base (wagon statesman and ute) or short (sedan) with a vs 4l60 front yoke swapped at the uni joint. this will work with both t56 and 4l60e as they are both the same length and have the same output shaft spline.
Fuel system: for a budget dead head fuel system (single 5/16 or 8mm fuel line) capable of 450-500rwhp n/a. walbro 255lph intank pump($160). ryco z768 filter regulator (58psi or 4 bar)($45), gm 3/8 rail adapter to -6a and -6an to 5/16 barb ($70 both), efi fuel hose $7.50-$14.00 per/m, l67 42lb green top injectors (ls1 are 23lb vt early or 26lb later- good for roughly 400rwhp at 95%)
shifter: cube short shifter, cut and modified handle to suit so it no longer has the rear dog leg section (as per photo to follow).
pedal box: vs hydraulic pedal box with factory getrag master, malwood flexible line and remote bleeder, factory t56 slave.
will add more as i think of them
