CommodoresPlus

nice fab work looks good. shame there is no better pic of the new lower radiator support. i assume you made it with some rectangular section around the 10mmx30mm?

stripped engine bay, removing unused brackets, starting to clean up rust, not sure on how i will temp fix the tear on passenger strut tower. might use a long rectangular grommet and neaten it up.

next on the agenda is a test fit of the engine and box for clearance checking then i can go ahead and complete wire wheel, clean and por15 the bay

when…[Read more]

stripped engine bay, removing unused brackets, starting to clean up rust, not sure on how i will temp fix the tear on passenger strut tower. might use a long rectangular grommet and neaten it up.

next on the agenda is a test fit of the engine and box for clearance checking then i can go ahead and complete wire wheel, clean and por15 the bay

when…[Read more]

stripped engine bay, removing unused brackets, starting to clean up rust, not sure on how i will temp fix the tear on passenger strut tower. might use a long rectangular grommet and neaten it up.

next on the agenda is a test fit of the engine and box for clearance checking then i can go ahead and complete wire wheel, clean and por15 the bay

when…[Read more]

save this post for questions

1) v6 throttle cable – compatible with ls1?

2) new black door seals who has used what and where from?

a) rarespares

3) was there much to modify using a vt/vx bonnet cable when hiding it under the guard? 19.12

4) does the pacemaker headers require a clamp at the merge on the drivers side? 23.12

save this post for questions

1) v6 throttle cable – compatible with ls1?

2) new black door seals who has used what and where from?

3) was there much to modify using a vt/vx bonnet cable when hiding it under the guard? 19.12

save this post for questions

1) v6 throttle cable – compatible with ls1?

2) new black door seals who has used what and where from?

save this post for questions

absolutely, its only the initial outlay that make them harder to justify in buying especially since the standard ecu is very good and capable of over 1000hp/ flex fuel and NO2.

the only difference i can pinpoint in ls haltech ecu’s are dbw or cable and if you want the premium features

wouldnt be a problem with a haltech. cam crank and vct phasing all adjustable. only on older ecu’s was that a firmware flash ie microtech

look too the v6 conversions webpage. pretty sure it has all the info about the vats

vy ls1 engine harness is unique as it has the connections to the body loom in different places compared to the vt vx & is different again as the vz runs fbw

might have a leaner tune off boost which will run hotter maybe attributing to the glow

just had a good read of your build thread. looks like some interesting ideas.

Personally i would take another direction. Install the ecotec and gearbox, spend the money and build a quality exhaust system. Get it on the road, while gathering parts for a l67 top swap.

rebuild / port up a charger and heads, grab a decent bump stick, boost increase…[Read more]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>just had a good read of your build thread. looks like some interesting ideas.</p>
<p style=”text-align: left;”>Personally i would take another direction. Install the ecotec and gearbox, spend the money and build a quality exhaust system. Get it on the road, while gathering parts for a l67 top swap.</p>
<p…[Read more]

dont run 1 and dose. still see many 1000hp cars with no bov