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Insurance claim has been lodged. I have the registration of one of his 3 cars (not the one that hit mine), Shannons have been fantastic to deal with for the whole process.
The sooner he admits he done it and is at fault, the sooner it will be over.
Front and rear dash camera system was installed Tuesday afternoon after the accident, Blackvue DR750LW (first flagship model), 1080p front and rear cameras, GPS speed and location with a power magic pro for 24H recording while parked too.
Found his Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and ABN number which isn’t connected to any business’ and a Gumtree of a car he sold 6 months ago outside of his house (showing the house number), which narrows it down to 1 of 31 houses on his street.
I got all of that information in about 15 minutes using just his first name.Good of him to leave his number yesterday then change his story today.
Police won’t let me file a report unless I have his registration number and address, which he won’t give me because he’s damaged the paint as well and doesn’t want his excess to rise.
He has blocked my mobile number and there were no actual witnesses, so my insurance company won’t do anything either.
I’m up shit creek in a barbwire canoe, if I want it fixed I’ll have to pay excess which I shouldn’t have to.I know the street where he lives but I have no doubt he has either fixed it or parked it in the shed for a while.
Woke up from a knock on my door this afternoon (I work night shift) from a mate of mine that lives around the corner to let me know somebody had side swiped my car while it was parked on the street.
The person left their details and they only live around the corner too,insurance will be sorting it out. Just one thing after another.
Congrats on your car being the forum banner, pir4te!!
You can’t say much on Just Commodores these days without getting banned, all of the moderators have sandy vaginas over there.
Thanks!
Car was due for a service and I wasn’t able to do it at home because of my project car. Ignition barrel is 36 years old and just plain knackered so I couldn’t move the car. Ignition barrel took 9 hours in total to remove, which included extracting 6 security screws in the steering column, upside down and on an angle.
Bought some good quality drills for the job too!
Decided to try out the Penrite 10W50 oil, the lifters are definitely more quiet with the thicker oil.
While the car was on the hoist the mechanic was nice enough to let me have a look around properly under the car, then we found a *little* problem with the tailshaft center bearing..
It’s completely detached from the rubber.
Because of the vibration it has led to the transmission housing seal and diff pinion seals to weep fluids. 1 problem is now 3 problems.
The strut top mounts are pretty old and there is a distinct suspension knock, ordered some Superpro Polyelast mounts and they arrived today, mechanic will be fitting them next week some time then a wheel alignment straight after. All other bushes and ball joints are perfectly fine.
Last but not least, I decided to fix the OTR filter cover, it had 2 stripped self tapping screws holding the cover on, so I drilled out the holes and installed 3 M4 thread rivnuts.
Much better.
Thanks Sen, it’s the second car that Callum has built and had published.
The first one was a 200SX a few years ago, can’t seem to find any pictures of it online though.Edit: Found one of the many pictures but I can’t find the article online!
Another update to add.
When I bought the car I wanted to add a series 2 black Calais cluster. I’m not sure if many people are familiar with GM’s great ideas but they changed the fuel level sender resistance to read the opposite way- meaning when I got the cluster installed and programmed, the fuel gauge read backwards (kind of)..
I’d fill up the tank, it would go straight to empty and the fuel light would flash for a while. After using about 15-20L the gauge would quickly work its way up the the 3/4 mark and stay there for a while, then go to F with about 10L left in the tank.After running out of fuel once and getting sick of it not working properly I bought a series 2 SS fuel pump and installed it this weekend.
It is a very straight forward and easy process which takes about 1-2 hours if you haven’t done it before like me.Tank removed, 3 straps, 4 bolts and removed the fuel filter.
Old and new pump assemblies are physically the same, besides the level sender resistance.
The rubber boot that is around the filler neck was already cracked, nothing zip ties can’t fix.
Full tank of 98, $100 later.. (don’t tell my Mrs that)!
There is a full how to thread on another forum to install one in VT-VZ LS1’s but I’m sure it wouldn’t be too hard to figure it out for VN-VS’s
So, this happened!
The photoshoot was done about this time last year when Callum went all out with the audio system. The boot floor is now on display with his demo board at the shop.The full article is online and FREE!
I’ve done diff oil before. It’s just coming down to laziness.
The process of having to lift the car (even with FE2 suspension) takes 30 minutes to raise and another 30 minutes to lower from stands. Easier to pay the mechanic to do it!
Went down south to a mates shed yesterday arvo and had the pin hole welded up, no change to the exhaust note which doesn’t surprise me.
Car is booked in to have the diff oil changed Tuesday, then that is all the fluids changed!
It’s more for peace of mind than anything, for all I know the fluid is the original stuff from 15 years ago.
Surprisingly the brake pedal feel was great with the crappy fluid. Now I don’t have to worry about it for another year or two!
I’ve gotta make some ramps up for the car, even with FE2 suspension it’s impossible to jack up without first putting the car on blocks of wood.
Thanks to Photobucket none of my build log pictures work along with many others. I’ll fix it soon.
Long time no update.
The car has been sitting unregistered due to financial restraints so I’ve been driving my girlfriends AE92 Corolla.
Now that she finally has her P plates I have to register the SV8 again, so I thought I’d flush the brake fluid and bleed the system.Nothing but the best, for the best!
Looking a bit worse for wear. don’t know how old it actually is or what brand it was.
Nearly the whole litre flushed through with no air in the lines. Nice!
And a nice little exhaust leak I found when I started the bleeding process. Just need to tack it and she’ll be right.
It’s something that’s always neglected and over looked. 99.9% people just top it up.
Looks like I’m the .1% then haha.
Sent from my MHA-L29 using Tapatalk
Every time I have bled the brakes I flush about 500mL through the system to make sure it’s really cleaned out.
The fluid hasn’t been done in about 3-4 years and is a bit cloudy so it’s good timing to do it.
Sent from my MHA-L29 using TapatalkThis weekend I finally serviced the transmission, my least favorite thing to service.
The car is one of the very last series 1 that was built in 10/02 but it has the series 2 stepped transmission pan and deeper engine sump so I suppose that is a score!Some supplies for the job.
This is what the pan looked like after draining the fluid, not a very nice sight!
From my knowledge it hadn’t been serviced in over 5 years so it doesn’t surprise me.
That’s it for now, I’ll probably do the diff and bleed the brakes sometime soon and it will be all up to date!
Here is a simple video on how to do it made by someone else!
As for this weekend, I changed the engine oil and filter. Nulon was on special and I still had 1L left over from the last service so I just used that.
The snake oil was on special as well, I’ve read people have used it and gotten good results so I may as well give it a go. The genuine filters are cheaper than aftermarket too.
Today I was bored and thought it wouldn’t be a bad idea doing a power steering fluid flush.
The pump has been a bit noisy at full lock and getting a little heavy.
I flushed through about 3L and took the car for a drive, steering is lighter and no more noise at full lock!
