[SirNemesisParticipant Geelong, VIC2002 WHII Statesman 1985 Volvo 240GLE View build HERE Member since: May 8, 2015 Posts: 25]

Small update, ended up buying a cam from Tick Performance.

I put some coil packs on to check clearance. Will be a little tight around the booster. Might have to stack the coils and run a couple of odd leads, unless the L76/L98 coils fit (they sit up higher).

Also pulled out the heating/cooling stuff. Won’t be needing that and now I’ve got a spot for the battery, PCM, etc.

Will need to do a bit of rewiring now. Lots of crap in here I don’t need, and someone has also butchered this in the past installing and all-black-wiring alarm/immobiliser.

Fun times.

[SirNemesisParticipant Geelong, VIC2002 WHII Statesman 1985 Volvo 240GLE View build HERE Member since: May 8, 2015 Posts: 25]

Out with the old.

And in with the new.

My mate made some prototype mounts that fit almost perfectly straight up. Little bit of hammering to get the studs lined up, but all good. Will need a little bit of spacing and adjustment but not bad for a blind test. TH400 clears the tunnel and lines up perfectly with the stock mount on the stock crossmember. Starter clears easily and pipes almost bolt up, those will need some minor adjustments.

Edelbrock intake would fit, but very close. I think I’ll just use a stock one.

Andy also had a 3″ stainless exhaust that he made for his car and didn’t use. Fits up nicely, nice little stock tip on the end for sleeper appeal too.

Will still need some adjustment as his was for Volvo engine and the turbo was on the other side.

[SirNemesisParticipant Geelong, VIC2002 WHII Statesman 1985 Volvo 240GLE View build HERE Member since: May 8, 2015 Posts: 25]

Modification time!

My mate had a Volvo shell so we did some engine mock-up to see how it’ll fit. He’s made some mounts to suit but I might just use engine plates instead.

I bought a WHII to strip for parts with the intention of keeping the engine+gearbox+loom, but after I’d done that I decided to go T400 instead, and got a realllyyy good price on a stuffed L76 engine. So, sold the WHII stuff off and covered all my costs.

The L76 I bought wasn’t in the best condition.

4 knackered pistons and 3 bent rods as a result of a little too much boost and a little too much timing… Block looks pretty good, could probably do with a 5thou oversize but then I’d need to buy new pistons and pay for machine work. Really don’t want to have to do that and I managed to pick up a near-new (removed from a crate engine after 500km) pistons and rods to suit the standard 4.000″ bore.

I pulled out the crank and took it down to the local machine shop to have the 58x reluctor swapped for a 24x reluctor. I’m not very good with E38 tuning and already have an abundance of LS1 looms and computers laying around, so I’d much rather wire and tune the car to suit. Swapping to a 24x reluctor saves me having to **** around with converter boxes, which have given me the shits previously…

Using a 24x reluctor now so changed the crank sensor from a grey to black.

The previous owner was good enough to plug the holes in the top of the block to keep good oil pressure with the L76 DoD system. He also removed the redundant DoD hardware from underneath the valley.

Also bought some bits and pieces from eBay…

I’ve decided that using both GT45’s might be a bit too big, so I’ve sold one and will just use one by itself now.

Also picked up one of these really cheap. Looks like it should fit. If it does I’ll use it.

I also took some advice and bought some new bearings and rings. All up it cost me $220 for the lot, not too bad.

Got plenty of spare pistons and rods now…

The rest of the bits from Brian Tooley arrived too

Bearings in. eBay honing tool also does a pretty mint job of scratching up the bores. Perfect!

Sloppy eBay ARP-copy studs looks alright and about 1/8th of ARP’s cost. I used genuine ARP lube to install them of course, wouldn’t want to take any shortcuts…

Looking pretty smick now!

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