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what are you hoping for power wise?
Keen to see this.
Not sure if anything they sell is of any use
Is it much tighter in the bay and tunnel?
Nice so whats it need now? Its going to be seriously fast with a ls3 in it.
Wow you are keen to start again . Should be interesting to see how it all goes.
How big task will it be to get the driveline in the bmw?
Interesting development. I was speaking to jason from http://www.musclegarage.com.au/ that makes the tuff car mounts for ls swaps and kits. They are getting a supplier in the states to make a loom to suit ls swap into vn-vs from scratch. So you get a brand new loom made all new everything . They will be $800-1k and available in a few months.
Used the VL for its first tow duties on the weekend, runs awesome when started, but has devloped a cold start issue. Bit of research and it sounds like maybe a common problem with the Quadrajet, so reckon I might buy an overhaul kit and have a crack at doing it myself.
If you get stuck shoot me a pm mate can guide you through it or if you get really stuck send it down to Melbourne I can get the old man to rebuild it for you.
I have been chasing a drive line vibration/harshness for a while. Be stuffed if I could find what was causing it, checked, triple checked underneath, all looked good. Decided to try going to rubber engine mounts rather than the Tuff mounts I had in there. Changed the fronts, engine definitely bounces around more under load. Eventually went to change the rear transmission mount and bingo. On the Tuff Mount design the retaining bolts can not be any longer than the thickness of the mount. If they are they go through and bear on the mating half, essentially locking it solid. The bolt length doesn’t matter on the standard T400 mount, as they go into fresh air. So changed to the T400, and its as smooth as a gravy sandwich. I did find the rubber engine mounts crapped out very quickly, they just cant handle the torque of the 454, so I have now gone back tot the Tuff Mounts for the engine, and the regular T400 rubber for the transmission. It seems to be a really nice compromise between harshness and rigidity.
I was reading this. How harsh is it now with the rubber box mount?? Its better but whats it like now overall
Also can you just run a rubber stock mount with a ls2/3 auto box a standard one?
Which rubber mounts did you chop out fast which design from who ?
Basically im looking into doing to ls3 auto(6l80) swap and dont want it harsh at all even with a rubber box mount. I was wondering if I could do what you did with the rubber mount for this setup. I assume its just a stock rubber mount from a commodore if so what model?
Cheers
Great to see. Did well considering the age. Whats the old girl need now sorting?
Did the power frighten you?
Thanks I like em, my sheds far too big to cool…
Even with a large evap unit?
Actually get the bonnet liner from tru fit they make them for rare spares(link supplied is rare spares onseller) they can finish them off better at similar price as rare spares makes them do it to a budget and puts their markup on them. Rare spares ones are not nicely finished on the sides just open foam cut. ”
” keeping in mind that the edge will be a lot neater and finished with a black binding”Got a good colour match as well came up neat. Glad you got the temp gauge working.
There is a common issue with the fuel gauge if its not the sensor on the tank itself
http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=64534
Its missing the wiper motor cover and bonnet liner if it bothers you .
https://www.kingswoodcountry.com.au/buy/holden-commodore-under-bonnet-insulator-vl-lining/H1294b
https://www.ebay.com.au/i/183438690404?chn=ps
Glad this car ended up in your hands. The ‘tow hack’ is getting a nice life. Coming up nice. I sent you the trim for the drivers seat on facebook
Most people use the vt front screen seals on these as they look neater and dont hold muck.
https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vt-commodore-windscreen-seal-on-vl.71762/
ill see if I can find out for you google search came up with nothing for me as well..
Might pay to get one of these
Looks pretty honest. If you get really stuck and cant find a decent drivers seat you could use the foams and trim covers off a passenger seat. Also have you looked into if you can still get the trim? Maybe get foam repair and retrim.
As for the screen rust, is it a dash out job? Thats all I could find “There are a few tricks to getting them right, like lining up the wiper pivot points, & the body lines.Also, make sure of painting the underside of the new panel before final fitting!” “The problem with welding in a replacement panel is you need to make sure you can get behind the panel to rust proof/paint behind else it will rust again from the inside..”
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This reply was modified 5 years, 11 months ago by
sands vs.
Great looking engine, keen to hear it running. Will you get any vids of it on the engine dyno?
Very satisfying slowly and methodically piecing it back together. The million dollar question is if the rockers with 750 though of lift will fit under the rocker covers. I hope so as I like the look of them. If not anyone know if you can buy spacers plates to give more room?
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=263703853048&category=42610&pm=1&ds=0&t=1527054062000&ver=0 Not sure if they help?
or http://store.yellaterra.com.au/rubber-valve-cover-spacers-ls-engines-10mm/
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This reply was modified 5 years, 11 months ago by sands vs.
Looking good, where will you be getting the push rods from?
Looks pretty honest. Needs rust repairs around the screens?
Should be a nice cruiser, hardly any vl v8 were made
might help
https://www.ebay.com.au/i/202484634445?chn=ps
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This reply was modified 5 years, 11 months ago by
