[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

Far out someone knows how to weld there………..

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

Couldnt you get the auto knob you have now trimmed in leather with the stamp in it?

 

 

Can you just buy leather with the hsv symbol in it? Might do it on my auto shifter get it trimmed up or can you supply one done?

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.
• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

VRSenator065 wrote:

n Facebook where its very hard to search stuff, and you get people commenting who sometimes honestly don’t have a clue.

 

Or people who want to argue with you that have no idea.. This is the gentleman’s forum no idiots on here free to help people without the dickhead factor that is ripe on there. Thats why I help so much on here.

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

Looking good

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

That install is really really neat got to be happy with that

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

All makes sense ha,, I reckon that could look really good to hope you pull it off actually. That drop box i linked you too come up nice

 

 

I thought you may have just been like me and had an odd obsession with hoarding specific vs parts  ha ha

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

Now im confused what would you do with it being an auto, are you going to try adapt it onto your Shifter?

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

I have a spare horn pad off a vr hsv if you want to take the design off that if needed too?

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

Interesting always great to learn cheers.  Im running magnaflow  metal core 200 cells cats unsure how well they work as far as cleaning up things. Heard they were pretty tuff I have had ceramic cats fail in the past

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.
• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.
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[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

Such a great idea… Good luck with it you going to start actually selling these rather than just taking orders?

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

Killer car keeps just getting better….  Nice pics.

Seen black carpet in a vs few times just doesn’t look right, looks bad against all the slate grey around it

 

 

I remember seeing those seats for sale they have been partially re-trimmed at some stage you pick that?

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.
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[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

I was always under the impression that after the cats was also bad as it cleans up things and can give an inaccurate reading?

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

So really only major change was the headers and it sounds very different? How so?

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

VRSenator065 wrote:

I remember reading the latest Cars/ECU’s use one before and after so they can make sure the cats are doing their thing?

The effect of a converter working correctly in a production car can be seen by examining the operation of a pre and post converter sensor; these are conventional oxygen sensors, not broad-band. The rear sensor clearly does not follow the front sensor that’s cycling in time with the ECU altering the mixture. It almost reads a constant value and this shows correct operation of the system.

The rear sensor can be made to alter it’s voltage by simply snapping the throttle open and therefore commanding a rich mixture. The catalyst does not work efficiently under the rich gas and therefore the rear sensor starts to read rich (high output), the same happens under deceleration when the injection is cut and the mixture goes lean (low output). Note the delays between the front and rear sensor readings; it is all to do with oxygen storage of the converter and the changing gas chemistry.

 

 

 
What is lambda, and the difference between narrow band and wide band 02 sensors?

One the most important aspects of the combustion motor is the air to fuel ratio in the cylinder. Like all things that explode, having the proper amount of combustible fuel to the amount of air to sustain the burn is important. Having lots of air but no fuel will cause the combustion to burn very rapidly and hot, while having lots of fuel, but no air will cause the mixture to burn very cool and slowly. Having an overly gross amount of either fuel or air will cause the combustion to not even occur at all.

What is Lambda? =
Lambda is scale that relates the air to fuel ratio of ANY fuel. 1.0 is stoic for every fuel. (the chemically perfect ratio of air to fuel for a complete burn). However, stoic is different for every fuel. Some fuels may need 14.7 lbs of air some may need 6 lbs of air for a complete burn. Lambda 1.0 is always the perfect ratio for the fuel in use.

Some tuners argue that it is better to read air to fuel ratio’s in lambda since it will be accurate with any fuel. To be fair though, most aftermarket gauges will read lambda and convert that number to an a/f ratio for gasoline. If the user then knows the stoic, lean, and rich ratio’s for gasoline, he can apply those numbers to any fuel used and it won’t matter.

What I mean is that if you are running 14.7 (stoic) on a gasoline A/F gauge and you then convert to alcohol ( or E85 ), 14.7 will still be stoic on the gasoline gauge. This is because the gauge is going to read a stoic lambda reading of 1.0 for any fuel, and the gauge is going to output that number as 14.7 on you’re A/F gauge even though we know the true ratio for alcohol is 7.1-9.1.

Many times I have then seen people try and richen the cars tuning map to get down to that A/F value, not realizing that they are already at a stoic burn if the gauge set up for gasoline reads 14.7.
Narrow Band vs Wide Band o2 Sensors

A narrow band o2 sensor is an oxygen sensor that is only calibrated to know three things. Rich, stoic, and lean. What I mean by this is that it only has a narrow window that it see’s the air fuel mixture through. The sensor can tell the computer when it’s stoic. If it’s not stoic, it can tell the ECU that it’s either Rich, or Lean, but that’s it. It doesn’t really output any particular value other than that. How rich the car is the sensor has NO IDEA about. Same with how lean the car is. All it does know is that it’s not stoic. The ecu with a narrowband o2 sensor, when in closed loop mode, will then lean on the fuel map if it is receiving a rich signal from the o2 sensor till its stoic. The opposite would be true if the sensor was telling the ECU that it was currently running lean, it would richen the fuel map till the o2 sensor was reading stoic.

A wideband o2 sensor is much more sophisticated than a narrowband sensor, and can be relied upon to be used as a tuning tool. Wideband sensors not only are a lot faster acting in the reading, but can tell you the exact a/f ratio that the motor is currently at. So instead of just telling the ECU that the motor is running rich, it will read a voltage that correlates to an actual value, like 11.2. One thing to remember with a wideband sensor is that it has a heating element that needs to be heated up before the sensor will be accurate in its readings. This usually only takes a few seconds, but just remember that for those first few seconds the gauge is not useful. Wideband sensors give the ECU the ability to tune exact A/F value’s to a tenth of a decimal instead of just richening and leaning the mixture till a stoic value is seen.

 

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.
• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.
• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.
• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.
• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.
• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.
• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

Poor old girl looks like it needs a wash…

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

Like everything about this car subtle and neat…

 

 

Put up a thread on the red torana or isnt it yours?

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

Looking more beastly… needs clear indicators thou I know race car but yeah..

 

Is that panel damage on the back door or just the pic?

Whens it seeing a run again?

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

http://wbo2.com/lsu/position.htm

 

Have a read there re placement, has to be fitted in certain angle etc. To drain moisture etc

 

10-15 degree

 

The image shows the range of acceptable mounting positions. A vertical position can get too hot in confined spaces, so we recommend at least 15 degrees from the vertical. The horizontal position can cause condensation to drip onto the sensor, so we recommend at least 10 degrees from the horizontal. In all cases the sensor should be perpendicular to the gas flow, ie. the bung should sit square over the pipe – this ensures adequate but not an excessive amount of gas enters the sensor.

We recommend placing the sensor around 1 m (40″) from the closest exhaust valve. Where this cannot be achieved then spacing the sensor away from the direct exhaust by using a longer M18x1.5 bung, or a nut welded over a standard bung, is recommended.

° towards horizontal  which prevents the collection of liquids between sensor housing and sensor element during the cold start phase. Proper bung placement and sensor installation are vital, otherwise sensor accuracy and lifespan can be affected.

The image shows the range of acceptable mounting positions. A vertical position can get too hot in confined spaces, so we recommend at least 15 degrees from the vertical. The horizontal position can cause condensation to drip onto the sensor, so we recommend at least 10 degrees from the horizontal. In all cases the sensor should be perpendicular to the gas flow, ie. the bung should sit square over the pipe – this ensures adequate but not an excessive amount of gas enters the sensor.

 

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.
• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.
• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.
• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.
• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.
• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.
• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

Yes it is mate

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

cava454 wrote:

I don’t even know what u drive lol

 

One day ill get my arse into gear and make a thread up, just so much details and pics dont even know where to start.

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  sands vs.

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