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August 21, 2017 at 12:09 am #24104
Looking killer mate.
I would of welded the whole way along the lower control arms.
I like all the braided hose details.
Cheers Cava. It’s easy to get carried away with braid lol.
Are you talking aesthetics or strength with the full weld?
Renno is this engine Stock besides you putting the turbo on it?
The engine is currently 100% stock and will mostly remain that way to begin with. I’ll change out the valve springs and maybe a small cam. But I want to try and get this thing engineered, so that makes things a bit difficult.
On a side note, I found some more pics of the conversion.
Using the CAE starter motor relocation kit meant that there is now a huge hole for debris to get into the bellhousing. Myself and my mate that did the lower control arms designed a cover for this area and laser cut a bunch out of stainless for our cars and anyone that needs one.
I’ll be running some Autometer gauges in the car, so for the oil pressure sensor I used an Aeroflow adapter that goes between the block and the factory oil pressure sensor.
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August 18, 2017 at 10:31 pm #24091I was having a look through my phone today and found some photos of the TH400 crossmember. It’s a factory GMH T5 crossmember that I stripped back and painted satin black, with a Tuff Mounts TH400 transmission mount atop.
A good mate of mine laser cut some plates to box the factory rear lower control arms. So, I got him to weld up a pair for me and they also got the satin black treatment.
I stripped down, cleaned & modified the factory throttle body.
This was where the factory coolant passage was.
And since I am going down the turbo route, the fresh air inlet for the crankcase will need to be before the turbo. So, I removed the pressed in elbow and tapped it to fit an NPT plug.
I’ll try and find some more photos over the weekend of the work done so far.
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August 17, 2017 at 10:04 pm #24083I forgot to add that I’d also repurposed the factory throttle cable bracket. I’m going to run a Lokar throttle cable, so I gave myself a clean base to work with when it comes time to drill the hole for the cable.
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August 17, 2017 at 9:51 pm #24082Well I guess I was a bit slack on getting those pics up ‘tonight’ lol.
I’ve still been tinkering on the SS here and there, mainly trying to get all the small stuff sorted before I start building the turbo manifolds.
Lately I have been working on the wiring side of things. I stripped back the factory loom and removed anything that I didn’t need (A/C & etc). Then I separated each sensor and ran it separately until I had a nice and neat loom. I’ll wait till the conversion is 99% done before I wrap it all up for good.
I then took some measurements and realised that I could drill & tap the fuel system purge port on the neck of the factory inlet manifold for an IAT sensor. The reason I wanted it here was to eliminate running it in the intake piping and thus hiding it, plus it’s a bonus if there is less heatsoak here.
* Ignore the temporary broken IAT.
While I was at it, I somehow managed to fluke drilling & tapping the PCV port on the intake manifold neck for a -8AN fitting.
Since I want to run -AN lines for anything and everything, the PCV port in the valley cover also got some attention to fit a -6AN line.
However, in my haste I did drill a tiny bit too deep into the valley. So I’ll need to see if a good mate of mine can build it back up a few mm with his TIG.
That’s about it at the moment. Like I said, I’m just focusing on all the little things to try and get them all out the way.
I’ll also try and keep the updates a bit more frequent.
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June 29, 2016 at 10:56 pm #18041I’m just winging it.
Amen to that!
June 15, 2016 at 1:41 pm #17790Nothing better than some ‘Pro Street’ styling.
June 15, 2016 at 1:40 pm #17789been saying that for a while now
And I’ll be saying it for a lot longer lol
how does she currently sit? What’s left
I’ll try and get some pics up tonight, but she pretty much sits as she was last on SC. I didn’t touch her for a year (or two) and only just started to slowly get back into building her late last year.
June 15, 2016 at 11:17 am #17787That is a pretty awesome piece.
June 14, 2016 at 5:07 pm #17779Gotta keep these younglings on their toes. LOL
Too right! Haha
awesome just ordered it thanks!
No probs mate.
- This reply was modified 8 years, 5 months ago by Renno.
June 14, 2016 at 3:05 pm #17775Gss242
You’re loosing it in your old age Cava.
GSS342.
- This reply was modified 8 years, 5 months ago by Renno.
June 14, 2016 at 9:38 am #17774Long time no see Renno
G’day Renno. Good to see this is still around. Shame your not sticking with the 5L. Keen to seem some progress.
Dan and Nick! Been a while fellas :bye:
I would’ve liked to have stayed with the 5L Nick, but I thought I’d bite the bullet and give the LS1 a go.
^That SA cruise is getting closer and closer I reckon….
I’ll have to come in my daily, because this old girl won’t be done for a while yet lol.
June 9, 2016 at 10:22 pm #17690Very nice, interested how it sits now for sure. I reckon we should have started an entire section for LS swapped cars
Cheers Gary!
Unfortunately it hasn’t really changed that much as I’ve only just gotten back into it this year, and it’s been a slow process.
A section just for LS swapped cars would be nice though #LSTHE WORLD.Haven’t seen this thing in donkeys !!!!
ohh man i remember this thing!
Haha! Glad to see you guys still remember the old girl
Pretty small turbo
Size doesn’t always matter
- This reply was modified 8 years, 5 months ago by Renno.
June 4, 2016 at 9:24 am #17521They are same as the VE’s. But the belt runs at the back of the pulley as the blower hangs off the front.
The offset of the harmonic balancer shouldn’t be an issue as the spacers for the bracket can be machined down to suit. For instance, I’m running a Y-body (VE) balancer on my LS1 and machined down the spacers to bring the alternator back inline. I was going to run an LS4 (front wheel drive) harmonic balancer, but that sat almost flush with the timing cover and would mean about 20mm of the mounting surface of the alternator would’ve had to have been removed.
As long as the block can accommodate a F-Body style bracket and alternator then it should work.
Come me to think of it. Don’t think you can run your typical elec water pump on the LSA. As the blower tensioner bracket bolts to it.
That’s a bummer.
June 3, 2016 at 1:32 pm #17505Ahh yes I’ve seen those floating around on FB. Look the goods. Got a feeling they won’t work on the LSA
Cheers!
I’m not sure how the alternator bolts onto those engines, but it does look different to the more generic LS engines.
June 3, 2016 at 11:07 am #17496So your the prick that didn’t give it to me for free LOL. whats this kit you make?
Pretty much lol
A mate of mine (PREDATR off of SC) and myself came up with a simple kit to run only an alternator on a LS based motor. It utilises the factory position of the alternator, but integrates an adjustable pulley to tension the belt.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.June 3, 2016 at 8:58 am #17486I think Cav just hassles everyone
I can agree with that! haha
June 2, 2016 at 9:24 pm #17477What are you planning water pump/ps pump wise? Just I may be onto a nice alternator direct drive set up which is pretty trick, but it means running an electric water pump?
Cheers for the kind words regarding the kit. We put in a lot of effort to get them where they are at.
Funnily enough Cava used to hassle me about an alternator relocation kit for the 5L’s back in the day on SC when I was putting a T04Z onto my 5L lol.
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