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Cava454, I’ve spoke to the engineer and hes happy as long I have some type of pollution gear fitted. I was actually going to do the exact same as VRSenator065. Any chance you could tell me how you went about it? Fitting it all up? Or where it is covered in your build thread? Cheers.
Thanks mate, Yeah I’ve had a few discussions with him about it. He says, if I run standard cats from that motor, then I don’t need to go for emissions testing and if I adapt standard air box, I don’t need to do drive-by noise testing. Only brakes test and noise testing. Again, I’m not overly concerned about having a loud exhaust. I’ve done a little research about people with their VE SSV’s running headers and high flow cats into the standard exhaust and making gains, but retaining the standard “exhaust noise”. So I was looking along the lines of copying the specs of the standard exhaust for that motor if it doesn’t seem to rob power.
Yeah mate, going for full engineers. Will maybe be looking at modifying original cats to fit as well, to avoid emissions testing.
I’m starting to think about Exhaust system for my build now and looking for advice on which is the best way to go about it. Now, it is going to be a sleeper and don’t want to attract to much attention. I actually want it to be as quiet as possible (just let it sing a little under WOT), but not restrict it too much. I don’t know if they go hand in hand or not, I’m no expert on exhaust systems. I don’t know how to sort of tie it in with the big 4 into 1 headers too.
Yeah, I have bought a few things from precision international before and I do highly recommend them when buying locally. Everything I bought from summit racing I compared costs to buy here for every item and I ended up saving almost $600 on my last purchase. However, There were a few things that didn’t work out cheaper. I just spent another $700 on summit today, which to buy here was going to cost me just under $900. Every purchase I’ve made through summit have only taken 4-5 days to get here too. But as I said, depending on what you’re chasing, not everything works out cheaper.
Hey mate, it’s the US Summit Racing. I didn’t even know there was an Aussie one. I have bought most of my gear from there. Even with the postage cost and currency conversion, I’ve found most of the gear is still a heap cheaper than here.
<p style=”text-align: left;”>Thanks mate, a lot of the members on here have help me out a heap already. This is why I started a build thread so hopefully I can do the same for the next bloke.</p>
<p style=”text-align: left;”>Anyway, a bit of an update. The aftermath of trying to remove the broken Exhaust bolt ended in 4 broken easy-outs and then I drilled through to the water jacket. So, the heads are now off at the machine shop getting repaired and now ive decided to have the heads reconditioned and upgrade the valvetrain. Going to chuck in morel tie-bar lifters, Pac-1219 valve springs, rocker trunion kit and chromoly push rods, also will be shaving 020″ off the heads to bump the pressure up a little. Plan will be to throw in a VCM 12 camshaft with a decent timing chain set once it’s engineered and on the road.</p>
<p style=”text-align: left;”>I got a heap of stuff from summit racing this week.</p>
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</p>Thanks VBRED, Was sort of thinking something along the lines of that approach. But having the K-frame out as well will free up more room to play with. VRSenator065, you’re spon on about that and I was sort of expecting to make modifications to get them to fit which doesn’t bother too much. I will just have see how it goes with the test fit and I’ll update the build thread.
This is real neat. I like how all the factory gear works together.
Thanks for the info Judge1, I think I will do something very similar to what you have. I’ll get a PWR Radiator and mod some AU’s.
VRSenator065, Now that is some food for thought. I knew it was tight around there, but not quite that bad. I guess I will just have to wait and see how I go with the test fitment. Thanks for the heads up though.
I did a little bit of clearance mods for the headers on the weekend. I needed to remove the rear RH casting block, also one of the pipes gets quite close to the rear of the block, so I shaved a little off there too.
To add to my dramas, I discovered an exhaust bolt that had broken off flush with the head and I’ve already broken off 3 easy-outs on it. Looks like it will be going to a machine shop.
Here are some pictures of the headers fitment.
VBRED thanks for the advice. I might just do that. I was originally relying on all the info on the net and wing it with the fitment. But I have done quite a few things differently with my setup, so test fit might be the go. How much massaging did the tunnel need for the reverse lockout solenoid? And what did you use to power it?
Judge1 that looks like a sweet build you got going there. Thanks for the pics. How did you go about mounting the Thermos to the radiator exactly? And is that just the standard inlet/outlet for VK V8? Reason I ask is im leaning towards PWR/AU Thermo setup and don’t want to pay extra for LS1/VK radiator if I can get normal setup to work.
Cheers.
Yeah, I was looking at PWR and Aussie Desert Coolers with either AU or VT thermos, unsure at the moment.
The rotisserie works awesome, only thing I messed up was the balance, a little top heavy. I just used the old front discs and bought a pair of trailer axles from supercheap for $50 and about $200 in RHS and knocked it together in a weekend. You can turn it with a finger. It’s not all that adjustable, but I plan on modifying it for my HR ute when I get back to it.
Not sure what you mean by slip on collectors, but the 4 pipes merge quite nicely. They came with flanges to build the rest of the system off. Hopefully I don’t need to modify them to get them to fit.
Spent most of today with the wire wheel, getting off all that old deadener from the under body. Also made up a bracket for the FBW pedal and mounted it.
This is the current state of the car, new rear end, smoothed engine bay a little. Got rid of battery tray and fuse box and filled in a heap of holes.
Just for info.
I finally found an engineer that would give me information without needing any money and funnily enough it was a bloke in Newcastle which I heard a few negatives about. Essentially, he said there is no limit on the size of motor you want to use, be it, LS1,2,3, supercharged, turbocharged or whatever. All he is concerned about is that the driveline is strong enough to handle that motor and the brakes and suspension are adequate. You don’t even need to do emissions testings if you run stock motor with standard cats. I only need to do brakes test and noise test. So looks like I will be going ahead with my L98 conversion.
That exhaust looks nice mate, the rear muffler looks real tight.
My build has just kept escalating over the past year and it is currently on a rotisserie.
I’m going L98 and TR6060, VL turbo diff and I picked up a reco’d VL manual steering rack a couple days ago pretty cheap, I also have Scheel seats. It’s just going to be a SL sleeper. Hoping to have it all done by mid year and I might start a build thread as soon as all the body work is finished.<b></b><i></i><u></u>
Loving and following the build mate.
I am currently doing the same on my VK.
How did you setup/run the exhaust? Got pics?
Yea mate, found the list. There are a lot around. I’m in Newcastle and have only heard negative things about some of the engineers here. After a little more research I found an engineer in Sydney, John at Consulmotive, that has engineered some LS swaps, so might get onto him. Anyone here deal with these guys? Or could recommend someone else?
Cheers.
