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As far as i know there is only one vacuum line that enters next to the heater hoses into the cabin.This activates the heater controls etc.Vacuum tank is connected to inlet manifold, cabin line goes from the vacuum ball up behind dizzy where it has a T piece .One line goes to heater tap and the other enters the cabin.This allows the cabin controls for heater to be activated after engine is turned off.
Be careful to check the vacuum on/off valve is adjusted/working correctly.If it’s not ,the heater tap won’t activate. If not set up right it won’t compress the plunger far enough to let the vacuum through.It’s located in the driver’s side foot well area.A black plastic torpedo shaped thing that is switched on and off by a white plastic arm off the heater controls.Mine was 3/4 in but still wash’t working.Needs to compress all the way.Finally check that your heater tap is not corroded and stuck open like mine was, and i always used coolant.These cars are getting old after all.
Anyway hope this helps.
Measured pulleys today. Crank =7.2″ 72 tooth. Blower = 3.21′ 32 tooth.Impellor speed at 7000rpm = 54,168rpm,so pretty much the recommended rpm for the T trim.I bought this set up second hand and i reckon the pulleys have been custom made or the original owner bought it from the States.Crank pulley is 2 piece and the v belt section was rooted due to belt slip.I had a new one made up which had to include a spigot to mate to the balancer as i have a chopper wheel for the crank angle sensor between the balancer and crank pulley.Can only assume the last bloke was turning it to 7000rpm or more to have the 72 tooth pulley.
That solid roller of yours has some decent duration numbers,what sort of lift do you have?How much comp?
You must have a good engine combo as your making good power on both blowers with low boost.Hope your right about the power.I think it will all come down to how much tuning window the spray gives me on the high comp…..and the head studs don’t get longer lol.
I have Di Fillipo 1 & 3/4 four into one extractors.Will probably be borderline on this set up.What sizes are the new pipes 1 7/8 primaries?
Ha ha yeh not the ideal engine combo for boost,but it’s not all bad news.Four bolt mains ,o ringed heads,1/2 inch head studs,h beam rods,forged pistons plus other supporting mods will help with lowish boost on an engine built for decent aspirated power.Engine is still strong and i don’t won’t to rebuild just yet.I have a solid roller blower cam(112 lca) that came with the v7 and its only got 4 degrees less total overlap than the one installed.
It won’t make as much power as an engine built for boost but it will make more power,just don’t know how much.If it makes bugger all i’ll sort it for decent psi down the track..Should be interesting either way.
Your not turning that big blower that hard. Temps are great!That’s good to know how efficient these Vortech’s can be.11 degrees is very safe with good power.
I would be keen to see how IAT’s ,timing and power go once w/m is added with your combo.Keep us posted!
Agree on first tune and w/m spray with increasing IAT’s.Will safely tune without, then bring in spray/timing slowly to get power back.
Sounds like Holden’s like to ping around peak torque.Will keep that in mind.
From memory it’s a 72 tooth crank pulley and 32 tooth blower pulley….and i think it calculated out to 58000rpm at 7000rpm which is what it gets revved to.So about 3000 rpm over it’s peak efficiency.I could rev to 6000rpm and use smaller pulley…will see.Holden strokers just sound better at 7000rpm lol.
Thanks for the info,it’s good to get some solid feedback.
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This reply was modified 8 years, 8 months ago by
VS 355 UTE.
Mate that’s awesome, love the way you prototyped have that.
Thanks.Just trying to work my way through something i have very little experience with lol.I’m sure there is an easier/better way to do it,i just decided this would be how i can get complex shapes formed.
V1 T trim at the moment.Want to see how the engine handles the smaller blower,if it likes the boost i have a V7 ysi to go on.Duct is being made for the larger V7.
Yes,no intercooler.Will be using two nozzles and around M70/30W by weight.Hoping to get good detonation control and charge cooling from the spray,with better response, no boost loss through intercooler and more flow to radiator. Steam cleaning affect on piston crowns and valves is a bonus.Really can’t see any negatives besides complexity of install, topping up of tank and a periodical jet inspection.My system has fail safes in case of pump failure.An A2A can never give the in cylinder effects of the spray.As i have iron heads and 10.1 comp on pump fuel with boost,i’m counting on the w/m to stop the rattling and still have good timing.All theory at this stage…..
Do i remember reading that your ride has w/m installed?If so can you give me any feedback?
Would also like your opinion on the cam timing i currently have on boost i will see.108 LSA is tight compared to the usual 114LSA.Exhaust ports will see a fair portion of the boost i reckon lol.
Cheers.
Cheers Sands
Have started working on the ute again after finishing the house renovation.Thought i’d tackle the intakes as these are going to take the most time.Definately want to have it back on the road this year,just don’t know how long it will all take.Once intakes are done i still need to wire and plumb in the w/m set up,but that will be the guts of it done.
As much as i enjoy working on it i’d rather be driving it lol.
Used wire to get the shape i needed.
Wrapped with cloth and PVA glue then added plaster so it can be shaped and sanded.Not quiet done yet.Plan is once fibreglassed i will lay some carbon fibre on and clear coat finish.
Sounds like a plan mate.
Horsepower is great but the torque will be crazy fun with the turbo boosting the 355 in the mid range on the street.Can’t wait to see it on the road.
Very tidy ute.Well done.
VR to VS series are the best utes GMH made in my opinion.Body lines aren’t ruined with tacky add ons like the newer maloo’s.
Some nice progress DK.
What horse power were you looking for out the stroker,500-600 rwhp?
That’s a nice set up.Price is good for the quality.I would have bought these if they were available at the time.
They have a new 25mm shaft coilover
New product hey,much of a saving over the 50mm ones,same adj settings?
Cheers for that. Might look at getting there street coilovers and shocks instead.
These are their entry level street coil overs as far as i know. More $$ for more high/low speed adjustments as you go into the more race spec models.
Impressive looking car very neat.. Should drive very well mate. Yeah after looking at what we had the pedders coilovers which were an awful design in many ways. And not even in the ballpark strength wise as the gm unit. We are modifying the gm struts as you say so least they are something well engineered. They also look stockish we will paint the sleeve kit black etc.
Cheers mate.
Pedders no good hey,they didn’t do a kit for the ute so never really considered them.Will be good to see the modified std struts when your finished,way cheaper too.
Damn i love that suspension been a while since ive seen the updates looking mint
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk Cheers DK.Glad to see you have settled in to your statesman build,keen to see it on the road one day.
Nice bit of gear there, making my own coil overs as we speak.. What are the brake lines going to be mounted to? What brand are the castor rods and whats your thoughts on them?
So your making your own coil overs?Using the original struts as a starting point?
Brake lines have been zip tied away to stop any contact with suspension.
Castor rods are Whiteline.You will hit the front guard before adjustment runs out,fitted up fine.Haven’t driven it yet so can’t really give any more info.
Yeah,not the usual lay out for the IAC but as you said shouldn’t affect how it works.
I,d give it an inspect/clean/lube and see if it makes any difference.When running cams with more overlap,the plenum can become coated in a gummy residue due to fuel drying out after reversion.Can find it’s way into the IAC over time.
Well, gotta say I don’t really drive it over many huge bumps tbh. But handling wise it’s nice, most people who have been in it comment on how nice the ride is and ts not as firm as tey imagined it would be just driving around. I wanted to keep the Senator feel rather than making it stiff race car like.
Your roads in S.A. must be a lot better than the ones we have to drive up here in QLD lol.
Good to hear the ride is not harsh.Don’t like too much of that either,hence the questions.
I love the understated tough ute look, great work.
Thanks.Glad i resisted those V8 racing front bumpers when they were the rage back in the nineties lol.
No, actually I am not running the rear springs that came with the XYZ system, I have a set of Pedders adjustable springs in there so I could play around with ride height. Actually feel of them is pretty good. Mines sedan though…
After a phone call,front XYZ coilover spring rate is 500 lbs.
How do you find the senator handles a decent bump?Just interested to see if 700lbs is track only spring rate.
Do either of you fellas know what spring poundage you have in the coilovers that XYZ supply?
I left it to the experts to select what they thought would be best,so the fronts ended up 700lbs.Should of had more input as i think these will be a bit harsh on the street lol.Might have to get another set made up around half that rating,but will test drive first.
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This reply was modified 8 years, 8 months ago by
