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May 1, 2016 at 8:00 pm #16513
Looks like it’s coming along really nicely. Great work! Not important, but what colour are you planning to paint to pipework?
Thanks,just want to drive it lol.
Originally i wanted to lay carbon fibre over them and clear coat,would have looked great but i don’t know if i had the skill to make it look spot on,too many joins.Then thought i’d 3D print the carbon weave on,but it would always look like stickers, as good as it can be.So i have settled on getting it smooth as possible and getting it sprayed in 2 pack to match the body work…Panther Mica.
May 1, 2016 at 8:50 am #16486How are going about gaining the extra horsepower?Still looking at doing the Vortech?
May 1, 2016 at 8:41 am #16485Nice work fitting that pipework under the bonnet. Looking great.
Thanks.I’ve tried to use as much room as possible for the ducts so it’s tight everywhere.The process of getting the ducts on and around each other is a tricky one,any bigger in certain areas and it wouldn’t work.
Had to take this section out of bonnet support to clear the blower to intake duct.
May 1, 2016 at 8:15 am #16483That is some epic pipe work work there man, well done fibre glass sucks, Iv been working with it for weeks now doin body kit on Monaro great stuff but it sucks to sand lol
Cheers mate.Yeh it’s fantastic to make complex shapes but as you said its a painful to sand.Covered in it by the time I’ve finished.Finish sanding with wet and dry is more enjoyable and comes up smooth as glass.
What did you do with your alternator ??
Alternator is in the standard position.Housing has been touched up in a couple of areas to give volute some clearance.
April 30, 2016 at 8:24 pm #16467Time for an update.Still working through making the intake/discharge ducting for the Vortech.Progress is slow but i thought i’d post up what’s been done so far.The process of making a mould from scratch,shaping,checking for fitment countless times then glassing it soaks up a lot of hours but it’s starting to come together.
Some pics
Bypass valve will vent through the larger hole into filter housing,it’s half finished plaster at the moment.Still need to make the vent pipe to bypass valve.
Will post up more as i get further into it.Still shit loads to do.
- This reply was modified 8 years, 6 months ago by VS 355 UTE.
April 28, 2016 at 7:34 pm #16421Stroke it as soon as you can afford it,really gets them moving the extra 50 cubes.Would love to have a go at a nice 383 and see the torque vs revability against my 355.
Would be a handful the 355???
Yes it was,had to be careful with the throttle.A lot better now.
April 28, 2016 at 7:15 pm #16420Have bought tyres online from St George Tyres and just recently from Tempe Tyres.No issues,delivered in a couple of days.I always ask the date of manufacture or some sites will have it displayed.Saved $180.00 a tyre on the Kumho KU39 from Tempe(less fitting& balancing).St George usually has a good range of Toyo R888 semi slicks at good prices.
On a side note the KU39 has really got some grip.Full throttle acceleration in second gear and no wheel spin once the full 18 psi hits(520rwhp xr6 turbo ute).The Yokohama Advan sports would break loose around 3000rpm ,but they were getting on.
Good luck with the purchase.
April 27, 2016 at 7:18 pm #16387Love the car mate and the whipple,great choice.Seriously considered one of these but couldn’t bring myself to remove the Grp A manifold,always wanted the twin throttles for as long as i can remember.
Heaps of potential for the future.
April 27, 2016 at 6:40 pm #16384I have the same size tyres on my ute for the 17″ rims although i run 235/45/17 on the front.
Toyo R1R (front) excellent tyre,good in the wet,very straight shoulder.
Kumho KU 36 (rear) very good tyre for the price,would buy again,good grip vs tread wear
Toyo R888 (rear) a step or two above the others as it should be, its a treaded slick.Needs to get up to temp to perform well.
Pretty sure all the above tyres are available in the sizes you want.
March 15, 2016 at 8:21 pm #15045Absolutely stunning ute! Love the understated look. Were the Di Fillipo’s pain to fit? What’s the ground clearence like? Don’t see many of them.
Thanks mate.Yes there are a few issues with the Di Fillipo’s fitting and clearance.Driver’s side only.Passenger side is fine.I have a flat spot on the collector which is the lowest point,but mine is quiet low.Had to grind a fair bit out of the bell housing to get the pipes to clear as they snake around the steering arm,auto transmission may have better clearance,i don’t know.
I replaced a set of 1 5/8 pacemakers with the 1 3/4 Di fillopo’s and i noticed an increase in torque in the low/mid rpm range.Just the opposite of what you hear about 4 into 1 extractors,and it was still 304 ci.
Funny thing was, that’s just where Di Fillopo said i would see gains once installed.
I like them,but you have to be prepared to leave a little metal on the road if your ride is low.
March 11, 2016 at 1:36 pm #14981Wasn’t aware you were running a blower,that’ll sort your diff out.Mine’s not built for the quarter either,nothing wrong with that.
Like to check out your ride,sounds tuff.Have you got a build thread going?
March 11, 2016 at 11:49 am #14977I’m a little confused.It’s a cruiser that you don’t want to rev or have more wheel spin but you have gone through two standard lsd’s in 5000 klms!Your cruising must be different to mine lol.
Not having a go mate,just curious.
March 11, 2016 at 9:36 am #14972Yes traction is better.I also fitted larger adjustable sway bars and wider rear wheels/tyres(mini tubbed) and the combination of all three worked wonders.No longer a widow maker and quiet a fast car around a good mountain road.
Why the 3.08 gears?
March 11, 2016 at 9:06 am #14969Good stuff.A Holden vs v8 drift ute,how aussie is that.Looks like a lot of fun.
Have a ute same as yours,never axle tramped,and i have changed just about everything at some time or another.
March 11, 2016 at 8:53 am #14965I have a Harrop true trac in my ute and it’s awesome.You won’t regret installing one.
Pin the throttle and it just smokes em in a dead straight line.The standard lsd would have me working the wheel to keep it pointed down the road.Predictable would be how i call the rear end now,especially power down out of corners…..a big plus for my ute.
Just be aware that the pinion gear will more than likely need linishing to clear the true trac depending on what gearing you have.Harrop say 3.7’s and up will hit,well i originally had 3.45’s and they needed quiet a bit of work to clear.
Have fun.
February 17, 2016 at 11:45 am #14203February 17, 2016 at 11:37 am #14201February 17, 2016 at 11:23 am #14200The Walky TTB’s will fit under a VS bonnet.You need to cut out a section of the centre bracing to get it to close.Take it easy and don’t cut out any more than you have to and the other sections of the bracing still connect to the centre by a small amount.Only clears the bonnet by bugger all, but it does.
See if i can find any pictures.
- This reply was modified 8 years, 8 months ago by VS 355 UTE.
February 14, 2016 at 10:03 pm #14141No worries mate,just some experience with my car.
Was difficult to see around that area with the heater pipes,lots of wires ,catch can lines etc ,could only see one vacuum line.
Cheers.
February 14, 2016 at 9:53 pm #14139Yeh CAPA’s crank pulleys are 82 tooth one piece as far as i know.They also have the belt gates on the crank/idler pulleys.Mine has them on the idler/blower pulleys,crank has one.
I will go back and check out your build thread.I’m sure i did when i joined up, but looked at quite a few at the time and don’t remember all the details.
Huge difference from the custom extractors.Would be a good feeling seeing those gains from your own fabrication.
On a side note.I thought the V7 YSI might need a larger crank pulley to see it’s best.It calculated out to 64,800 rpm with the 28 tooth blower pulley and 72 tooth crank pulley(7000rpm).That’ll do.Mine has aV2 gear case so step up is a little more which got me over the line.
- This reply was modified 8 years, 8 months ago by VS 355 UTE.
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