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July 21, 2016 at 6:26 pm #18637
Extrude honing is pretty pricey from memory about $900ish for bananas.
Wow,didn’t think it cost that much.No wonder it’s not seen that often.
July 21, 2016 at 10:36 am #18627Nicely done,will look tidy once finished.For a few more dollars extrude honing would make it a decent manifold that looks better than stock.Depends on how far you want to go with the banana’s.
July 18, 2016 at 11:40 am #18531Those Race Products adj Watts links kits would be a nice addition to any live axle set up.Looked into these a while back,the owner was a good bloke,really helpful.
Car is first class.
July 16, 2016 at 8:06 pm #18491You and me both,maybe while yours is on the dyno we could hear that induction your talking about.
This was a start up after 3 months, just minor blips of the throttle, but you can hear the induction. At 7,000 its music, hopefully soon post up a vid with it spinning up on the rollers Said before, I think its the variety of choice and approaches people take that make the car scene so interesting. https://www.facebook.com/vrsenator065/videos/680044532095522/
Sounds like a couple of Mark 1 Escorts….Seriously though i can imagine the music it plays at 7k would be glorious,need to hear it on this latest dyno run.
July 15, 2016 at 8:20 pm #18472Thanks for the positive replies,it’s been a longer process than i imagined,but hopefully it all comes together once tuned.
July 15, 2016 at 7:47 pm #18471For me ,the best model before the HQ series.Well done.Love the tubs with the standard exterior and period paint colour.
July 14, 2016 at 7:26 pm #18430No major updates to share recently,just tidying up a few areas of the fibreglass and starting to sort out where the injection system will go.
Drilled and tapped for nozzle holders and IAT sensor.Also attached dash fittings for IAC and catch can return.Next is to make mdf templates for blower brace brackets and get them off to the engineers to get CNC’d.
- This reply was modified 8 years, 3 months ago by VS 355 UTE.
July 14, 2016 at 7:16 pm #18428on the fuel economy thing I can gauntee a worked holden engine is absolutely fucked
So true….but give an LS the v7 and cam spec you have and the fuel won’t stay long in the tank either lol.
July 14, 2016 at 7:07 pm #18426You and me both,maybe while yours is on the dyno we could hear that induction your talking about.
- This reply was modified 8 years, 3 months ago by VS 355 UTE.
July 14, 2016 at 6:11 pm #18422Yea I would say it started making decent boost a bit before 3grand and from there the power just kept building, it was great fun to drive, at low revs it was well mannered but when you planted it and the revs started building it would fry the tyres in any gear, I’ll never forget cruising along in it at 100-110 and planting it hazing the back tyres in top gear shit it was fun, had a full manual t400 and 3.7 diff
Cheers for the feedback,that all sounds good, just need to get it finished.
The camshaft has been the a part of the existing engine that has had me thinking once boost is added. It will bleed boost at low rpm but i’m starting to think it will perform well once over 3000 rpm when the cam “comes on” and the blower is starting to make good boost.Total overlap is 32 degrees,same as Manta 218’s solid roller and he has some impressive numbers out of his Vortech 355.I’ll have less boost but more comp, so off idle grunt should still be the same.It was the top end that needed help.Will be interesting to see how it all comes together.
July 13, 2016 at 8:04 pm #18399Also depends on intended use of engine.Mine is no longer a daily driver so i want it to give me a grin when i turn the key.Grumpy is good.
I’ll never use an LS engine,they just don’t get my attention,although i am aware of there advantages and excellent range of aftermarket parts.I chose an fg xr6 turbo as my daily and and believe it was the best choice over the SS after driving both.Has made as much as 580rwhp with bolt ons,smoooooth power,six cylinder economy.Let down is horse and cart rear end of the ute,SS is light years ahead with it’s IRS.Brand loyalty is a good thing,but you don’t drive a badge.
Point being there are plenty of choices out there and all have there merits,one can’t be considered better or a wiser decision than another purely on purchase cost vs horsepower.If that was the answer everyone would buy half cuts with a 2jz and boost it 700 + hp.
July 12, 2016 at 7:50 pm #18387Same blower as mine.Your set up is similar to mine except cubes and intercooler.
Not having much experience with centrifugal blowers, can you tell me at what rpm did the T trim start making boost,i’m guessing around 3000 rpm?Mine turns to 7 grand as well so would be interested to gain some info on how it performs from someone who’s owned a T trim.
July 12, 2016 at 7:23 pm #18383Love tuff N/A engines,heaps of “character”,but it was time for a blower.Agree with above it’s just the next step to get the extra power out of the old Holden.If i ever go N/A again it would have to be 400ci plus,so limits the options and lightens the wallet to stay Holden.
July 12, 2016 at 7:11 pm #18381I had mine plumbed in just after the pod like grp a has and yeah I only did it for legal reasons but to tell the truth I really didn’t notice any problems with flutter, it did make a fair amount of noise but didn’t seem to affect the car drive wise, it was built 304 with a vortech v1 pumping 20psi so it was dumping a fair bit of air aswell, I miss that thing put a smile on my face every time I drove it
Healthy 20 psi on the 304.What V1 did you use,T trim or S ?
July 12, 2016 at 7:08 pm #18380^^wouldnt that massive whoosh of air as you back off just dump a fuck load of compressed air into the intake?
And the blower will draw that air back in and re compress it,probably quiet a few times until boost is required again.Could even help to draw the charge out of vent piping under the right conditions e.g. blower speed vs boost.The bypass pipe is the same size as the Vortech outlet and the actual valve is less than that,and it’s only 350mm in length.Also i don’t have to vent the volume of air that’s contained in an A2A intercooler and it’s long length of piping compared to how mine is done.Low boost as well,under 10 psi.Vortech have the outlet swaged and recessed for pipe and clamp.
Not saying i have all the answers,i just can’t see it being an issue.I also think maybe it’s just easier to set up non recirculating,so don’t see it as often?
grp A ute please let me know how it does go and if it gets any flutter noises at all as I’m very interested to know, never seen them actually plumbed back in but have heard it is a legal requirement
Will let you know how it goes once it’s sees some boost.
July 11, 2016 at 8:21 pm #18361that’s a sweet looking bit of kit you got there vs 355 I had to fabricate the plumback for my bov outta stainless wasn’t too big of a job but that looks like a better option
Cheers.This was one of the easier moulds i had to tackle.Worked out ok.
What’s with second pipe off that ??
Bypass valve attach’s to the smaller duct.Wanted it plumbed back in so it’s a little less noisy and w/m gets drawn back into the pipework if any vents.
July 11, 2016 at 6:57 pm #18352I don’t think there’s any restriction with that shroud.Heaps of open area,it’ll just pull air from the area of least resistance.Nice air from bumper opening….might get a little wet if there’s rain on the highway.
Mine’s set up in different area and is close to the wheel at full lock because off adj radius rods.I reckon i’ll fabricate a partition between wheel well and bumper area to stop water and stones etc.
This hangs under the guard,attached to the blower intake.Should keep dry except for wheel run off,so need a cover also.
July 11, 2016 at 6:00 pm #18350All good,understand what you said, just thought you might not have known that the full length ones were available. Most probably not an issue but if i can reduce another 8 o rings where a leak can develop i’ll go with that injector.The injectors adapters look a lot better black.I also have the connector adapters and i think they might be a little tall for my loom,tackle that later.
I also calculated on intended flow(xr6) and ordered the same 750cc injector as yours through a dealer in Sydney.When they arrived they were 1000cc.One phone call later and i was told that the boss man of I.D. said the larger injector was better than the smaller one and that’s what he recommended them for the Ford!!Luckily they’ve been great and the reason i want the same injector for the 355.
July 9, 2016 at 8:26 pm #18315yeah but I’m sure if you had a guard or cover shrouding that area and had a pod filter in there kind of making that area a separate air box in it’s own right it wouldn’t be as much of a problem especially with an air pump either Whipple or vortech sucking the air in, I’m pretty confident that it would have to be more beneficial than detrimental
Yep that’s my thoughts.
July 9, 2016 at 8:24 pm #18313Maybe low pressure isn’t the technical term. I remember when I drilled a hole in my guard and air box back in the day, fellow member Commodorenut told me it created turbulent air or what ever u want to call it. Which actually made the whole process worse. At idle it was great, but once moving the centrifugal forces the rotating tire made was bad for it.
I’m hearing ya Cava.other forces at play can have an affect.Mine has to go in that position so i’ll make the best of it.
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