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  • #8035
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    Member since: March 3, 2015
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    You mean the 5l40e 5 speed auto from an alloytec? From what i can see they are only rated at 340nm so don’t know how they’d like the torque of l67 even if you could adapt it? May i ask what the purpose in swapping would be? Normally if someone goes to hassle of adapting a non-standard gearbox it is usually for strength or some other benefit.

    #7895
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    Just watched some of that YouTube video. I was of the impression you weren’t supposed to mash the clutch pedal right to the floor the way he kept doing?

    #7888
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    Fli355 what model is that photo from? I haven’t put manual pedal box in the vs yet but in the vt my brake sits much too high to that way either.

    #7873
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    Honestly i think you’d be better off having something bolted onto the accelerator pedal that gave it additional height and moved it over towards brake pedal so you can still remove it for street. Lot of frigging around for aftermarket pedal box and don’t think you can use them with a booster which means not very street friendly.

    #7872
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    Got a mate with a BMW coupe that should be close to my ‘race’ weight and he only runs single piston front calipers on 320mm ish front and similar rears and hasn’t had any issues with brakes so far. I think front brakes will be fine but have to see how the solids rear rotors handle heat. Next upgrade from there for me would be VN group a style rears or modifying hand brake and running some vented vt-vz rears.

    RS3 are definitely a common track day tyre for value/performance.

    Still haven’t found time to get the other radius rod in. Tricky job that requires couple of set of hands so hopefully can get it in tomorrow and then car will be ready to set down and tighten everything up. Be a big moment when brakes can finally get fitted and bled.

     

    #7838
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    Slow progress is my only problem. Took time off work and then spent precious days fixing gf’s car. I’ll keep it updated but wont be anywhere near as impressive as your build ij. Wish i had fabrication skills. Would be fantastic to try out some of my ideas without spending thousands for someone else to do it. Job now is keep imagination under control and just get the thing running. Had diff built 12+ months ago and havent even tested it yet.

     

    #7819
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    It’ll just be timed super sprint days through Skylines Australia with a few mates at the local tracks ie Winton/Sandown/PI. Nothing competitive. Just a bit of fun and bit of speed without getting out of hand is the plan.

    #7773
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    Tried to attach image to first post but too hard and photbucket phone app not working properly.

    #7584
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    I believe from some brief research i did they use same caliper as au tickford model falcons and then the vn group a rotor for live axle models. Not sure about irs as I’ve not owned a vr/vs with irs. I think any upgrade i do to rears will involve handbrake mods to run vt-vz rears

    #6955
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    Will be interested to see how you find the Raptor charger. What coilovers are they? I don’t recognize the blue and black colour scheme? Should be a fun street ute when completed. Assume staying auto? Any work happening to trans?

    #6952
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    had a beer with a mate tonight who runs ad08r’s on his s2000 with 265’s on the rear and he likes em so much he drives them on the street and track.

    What width rim does he run the 265’s on? I favour a 10″ but think i’ll struggle runing 10″ wide on front of a VS.

    There are actually two different versions of the 123s. A drift version and race version. Not entirely sure of the differences although the drift version has thicker tread and think drift version has more size options. I looked at them and had chat with couple of retailers at last year’s wtac in Sydney. Then the ad08r’s came up at a great price so went that way.

    I think that is the only difference between the drift and track versions. The drift version (which I have on my car) roll before gripping but when they grip they are good. I have never taken to the track with them only on the road but you can feel the roll on them, doesn’t give you much confidence really. But with less tread depth you can get rid of that easily.

    What size do you have on your car?

    #6912
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    There are actually two different versions of the 123s. A drift version and race version. Not entirely sure of the differences although the drift version has thicker tread and think drift version has more size options. I looked at them and had chat with couple of retailers at last year’s wtac in Sydney. Then the ad08r’s came up at a great price so went that way.

    #6911
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    If you’re doing forged pistons and balancing I’d be getting better rods too.

    Wouldn’t worry too much about cam advance. From what I’ve seen of 3.8’s with gt35r turbos Yyou’ll have a pretty meaty mid range with right turbo selecting without heavily sacrificing top end.

    #6867
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    So where did you plumb yours in IJ? I been thinking about purchasing a kit for the track build. I plan on running an external engine cooler so could i just plumb it off one of those fittings if i used a bolt on/spin on adapter?

    #6866
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    I hadn’t seen kits like these before. I’m sure i’ve seen supplementary filter kits that run a finer filter element and i had thought it was a Donaldson kit though can’t find anything through google. What application are you thinking of using it in? Street? Track/drag?

    #6777
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    Let us know how you go. Important to get the pressures right to get right grip and wear. My understanding is that pressures are fair bit different between street tyres and semi’s whether they’re dot or r comp. Probably be a bit of playing around to find right pressures for you.

    #6591
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    I just bought a basic knob style wilwood proportioning valve to suit 10mm flare nut with bubble flare. Think was around $100 but haven’t gotten around to mounting it. Bought several meters of brake line and flare buts from race brakes in Sydney. Was going to mount in cab but it was suggested if anything let go that being sprayed with hot brake fluid would be unpleasant so when the time comes I’ll look to mount under car and hopefully just drill a hole for the knob to poke through. Found it quite difficult to flare with the supercheap flaring kit I borrowed and no vice or work bench. Flaring a cut line on car is a real pain.

    #6474
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    Yeh old singles were pretty woeful even in my old vr v6. It was running pretty hard compound pads from previous owner which didn’t help but vt upgrade even with spongy pedal felt more confident. The twin piston 330mm kit was heaps better than the vt setup though. I had the dba 4000 rotors too but the older version.

    You got a seat or harness for the car or just running factory seats/belts?

    #6444
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    I’ll put this info here just in case it’s useful to you later or anyone else thinking about going down this path.

    Stock upper spring perch for the 04-06 GTO BC BR coilovers looks like this

    Then the yellow part beside coilover is the bearing they come with and then your chosen ruber/urethane mount on top of the that using the assortment of nuts and washers. Now because i wanted solid tops and camber adjustment for the track i was choosing to delete that rubber top. I contacted justjap and they sent me these.

    Obviously they are red but that doesn’t matter. What does matter is that the threaded part on top of the coilover is to suit standard tops so is M16 in size but the id of the spacer in those tops is i think 12-13mm. Not enough.

    I’ve dropped coilovers, bearing tops/spring perch and my camber tops with all the collars/spacers to Grunt Performance who are going to drill the spacer out in the bearing plate/spring perch and then mill the top of the spacer down to the flanged part at the top. Then the camber tops will sit on top. In the pic below the bearing plates will sit obviously between the spring and the camber tops.

    Sorry for the crappy light in the photos. Taken from mobile phone.

     

    #6407
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    Phire aka Gmfan
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    Mates swear by yoko ad08r’s as best value for money. They will go hard long before they wear. Mate did a heap of days on his 255/40r17s and when times started to drop off he sold them to another mate who runs them on his BMW for track days with heaps of tread left still. I think other tyres that i was recommended were Hankook RS3. Ended up buying ad08r 265/35r18 cheaply through import monster but will be a while before I get around to using them

Viewing 20 posts - 61 through 80 (of 100 total)