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  • #23341
    Profile photo of OZ38
    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    How many people on here are now affected by Photobuckets change of Terms & Agreements ?

    Basically I am screwed as there are no longer 3rd Party Hosting Images to forum etc unless you become a paying member.

    The year fees are nothing short of extorsion.

    #23248
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    Get white. Not blue.

    Ok will give them a crack next.

     

    Cheers

     

    #23208
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    The blue led wedge ones from jarcar were only $2 each as well. But still not the right colour for my old eyes at night, it seems to dull still. Might try the red ones.

    #23123
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    Interesting work there, I have never seen or heard of that Flange & Punch Tool before.

    #23053
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    Well all my issues with gauges not working was a bad common earth. Did not think that would make a gauge peg out but obviously does. So the Fuel pressue, Oil pressure are working fine now 😊 .

     

     

     

     

     

    • This reply was modified 7 years, 4 months ago by Profile photo of OZ38 OZ38.
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    #23040
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    Have the adj caster arms and kmac strut tops.Max of +8 caster.Wheel will still be forward of guard center if you want the most caster possible.

    Thanks for the reply.

    So think I will do it as well. +8 would be good to get even if I have to settle for the resulting wheel position forward of guard centre.

    #23020
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    I think you are referring to that thread on the PCM hacking forum, if that is the case his argument about a car breaking welds is a dirt track car that gets totally thrashed across big ruts running very low tyre pressures.  

    Yeah that’s the one. Did not realise they were talking about a dirt track car, as he just said track car & I immediately though bitumen road races.

    #23016
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    Just waiting on conformation from my engineer those adjustable rods are road legal here in SA, if they are i am going to try a pair.

    Did you ever get an answer back on the adjustable castor rods ? I bought & fitted the Whiteline kit which has stamped on the side of the rods “Race Use Only”. So gather they are not legally acceptable on street cars. :hmmm:

    I went from a standard castor of around 4 degrees up to just over 6 degrees before the tyres started rubbing on the front inner guard plastic when wheel is turned to full lock (17×8″ VT SS Alloys with 235/45/17 tyres).

    I want more Castor than I currently can get from the Z-bars, so am looking at the adjustable K-MAC Camber/Caster Top Kits (Stage 3 Full Race),

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Holden-Commodore-VR-VS-Front-Camber-Caster-kit-Stage-3-FULL-RACE-201616-3L-/131786032651?hash=item1eaf0f460b

    To try for about 8 -10 degrees caster & bring the front wheels back into the centre of the guard arc.

    Concerns I have are a few people on other forums are saying they are to harsh being solid mounting. Breaking welds around the towers when used on a daily streeter. Has anyone who uses them now got any feed back on them, VR Senator 065 maybe ?

    Have been told they may make a softer version which will still give you the adjustment required ?

    Cheers

    • This reply was modified 7 years, 5 months ago by Profile photo of OZ38 OZ38.
    #23015
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    Just what you need….more work. :-P

    #22868
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    Got a new Autometer oil pressure sensor on the way. Hopefully that is the issue with oil pressure gauge.

    #22858
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    Something really weird going on there. What does the oil pressure gauge do if you disconnect sensor wire and power it up? Try connecting the oil pressure sensor to the fuel pressure gauge and see if that moves then. Are these Autometer gauges?

    Yes Autometer Pro Comp Ultralites.

    The Oil Pressure does nothing if the sensor wire is disconnected & reds turned on.

    The Oil Temp gauge was doing the same – pegging out on the max side of gauge when attached to the stock GMH water temp sender as a trial. Although later I got it hooked up to the correct sensor & earth that to the engine & gauge moved to the start of the face when reds turned on. So that seems like it will be ok when installed on new engine.

    As for the electric Fuel Pressure I had another gauge unit here & connected it to the sensor on the current engine & it did everything right. So figure there is a power supply issue with the gauge in the dash atm.

    #22850
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    New problem with the gauges I have fitted. The oil pressure gauge needle winds off the clock & pegs out to near the maximum when the ignition is turned to the reds. Once engine is fired up it moves a little more off the clock.

    The brand new fuel pressure gauge doesn’t move  at all even with just ignition switch to reds or the engine running. A manual gauge  shows about 46psi on the fuel pressure at the same time.

    Did check the sensor wire voltage & got a bit over 14+ volts while engine running. Did not think there should be voltage there seeing as the sensor wire screws direct to the sensor ?

    I’m not finding any answers with Google for these problems.

     

    #22846
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    The mech fuel pump is new. Plus we just had the engine apart for new seals, gaskets,rings, bearings, solid cam, VN heads etc.

    He does not want to spend more money if he call help it, converting to electric fuel pump.

    As for the fuel pump drive, we had to remove the longer drive pin from his old cam & fit it in to the new cam. The eccentric cam bit that drives the lever did not have enough pin to locate on, with the new cam & VN heads set up.

    #22775
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    Yeah it would be good if the oil didn’t get down to it as easy as it does. I am imagining the oil gets flung off the timing chain & runs down the lever rod into that section with the hole in it. There is only the gasket between the fuel pump & engine block which leaves clearance for the lever to move up & down off the offset cam drive.

    We have now tapped it & plugged the hole as we can’t see how we would stop oil getting down to it.

    Googled images of 308 mech fuel pumps & some had the hole & some didn’t ???

    #22267
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    I done the same i just used the factory fuse location for the airbag as my car doesnt have airbags, and cut the wire from the back of it and hooked up the 3 gauges that are under my radio to that, that fuse is solely now for the Autometer gauges so ive just used a 10 fuse

    After finding the back of that 15 amp airbag fuse had a small pink wire after the fuse, I am wondering if anyone know where the end of it goes to seeing as my model also is not equipped with Airbags ?

    Looked around over on the passengers side where other models have the airbag but can’t see and wire that looks like it comes from that fuse. Would have been handy as it would be just a short wire from there to new gauges.

     

    #22214
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    I done the same i just used the factory fuse location for the airbag as my car doesnt have airbags, and cut the wire from the back of it and hooked up the 3 gauges that are under my radio to that, that fuse is solely now for the Autometer gauges so ive just used a 10 fuse As i have a statesman dash in the car i replaced the factory clock with a LED voltmeter which, i wired in at a later date, i used a combination of what would of been the factory phone wires that are on the LHS of the dash, ran those to a fused relay, then used the remaining wires from the clock for the gauge, illumination etc

    After checking the airbag fuse location, that is also the perfect option for me as well. Didn’t realise till I checked it also is fed the same as the other listed ignition fuses there. Mine also is a pre airbag model.

    Thank for that tip.

    Cheers

    #22208
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    Looks awesome, just curious how it will go sealing with the torsional rock of the engine ?

    Cheers

    #22198
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    That is what I was hoping you would say. I found the relay holder & fuse for power windows all have power. I also noticed the two rear doors have a wiring loom feeding into them. Could not think of any other reason apart from adding power windows. Stange the front doors don’t seem to have the same thick loom going to them though.

    Cheers

    #22197
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

     

    So thinking of grabbing power from the number 10 fuse, instruments etc. Will it matter that it is fused a only 7.5 amps for the Autometer gauges ignition source ?

    Found other points for the earth & illumination of the gauges.

    Cheers

     

    #22193
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    OZ38
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    Member since: April 24, 2016
    Posts: 59

    Ok so I am looking to test the fuses & see which ones get power when the ignition key is past the accesories on the reds ? That sound about right does it ?

    Cheers

Viewing 20 posts - 21 through 40 (of 53 total)