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May 28, 2016 at 7:52 pm #17313
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264G’day G’day its Taylor 👋🏼
Wow, thought you sold this rig. So glad you didn’t. Looking forward to seeing the progress.
May 26, 2016 at 9:34 pm #17247
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264T400, Glide or Trimatic. No gimmicks or “what ifs”
If it was huge HP then no question. Mine is only a stocky with a bit of work nothing special.
I’ll talk to the trans shop soonish and see how we go. I will let you know the direction I end up taking though. Watch this space……… and this one too.
May 26, 2016 at 9:26 pm #17244
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264Taylor Conole? Such a tuff looking rig.
- This reply was modified 8 years, 6 months ago by NickVR.
May 25, 2016 at 9:22 pm #17204
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264Yeah will speak to them. Hopefully yours has everything I want and it ends up being drive in and drive out. I think the trans is the same as mine.
May 25, 2016 at 8:56 pm #17200
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264So to clear it up your building a t700? I know not close but ProMatics in Tullamarine built a t700 for a mate. New shell, Ptc internals etc for under $2500. The thing has copt a hiding, N bombs and all. Manual valve body or you thinking stage 2 shift kit to firm up the shifts? If you go manual valve body factor in a shifter Converter do some shopping around you will get one for $500-700 for a quality unit. Transcooler, save your $$ you don’t need a fan, but mount it in front of the radiator. If you search around you could get a t56 conversion for around $2500-3000. If your car is somewhat standard to mildly worked a t5 will be more then enough also at around $1500ish.
That is about the figure I’m looking at for my rebuild $2.5-$3k. Its the electronic trans 4L60E in mine (i think that is what is in these). So they would be around the same price, but I always allow for more just in case. It has a shift kit in it but want to make sure it’s all good, no manual valve body. Just rebuild and strengthen what is there. Wouldn’t do the T5 conversion, would rather strengthen the auto with that cash.
Not sure the VS stuff will be any good for mine as the BCM is different and may require a bit of work to get working properly. The hydraulic pedal box I reckon I can get and know of one for sale. Although still won’t be cheap and can vary from $3-$400.
well the VR V6 manual ECU and the VR V8 Manual ECU manual are the same part numbers from i can remember while looking for mine VS V8 Manual V8 ECU is the same again, but VS V6 has a different part no, so would be a different ECU i only have an manual engine harness so might be able to adapt it if it needs it, where it plugs into the body harness i sold my pedalbox, for $300, if i get time later tonight i’ll put the spec of my transmission up
Yeah, would be interesting to see what your trans spec is. Who did yours?
I reckon your summary (aka essay!!) is spot on the money. And I reckon the cost you have there are about right too. Norwood’s are really really good. I have got to know Grant, Chris and Scotty very well over the time I have been building mine. They originally helped with some advice when I built my 4L65e, and they built my glide for me which is awesome. They are very very honest, and know their stuff, you just have to see the kind of cars they always have coming and going there. Actually my 4L65e and billet stall is sitting there looking for a new home if you were after a swap. For you I would let it go at a pretty good price. Its only done 1,000km, it was just the clutches couldn’t handle the torque of the 454, t has a lot of good bits in it. Whichever way you go keep us posted how you go, its interesting to follow
Thanks for the offer of the stall but think would be too high for the cam in it. If the trans has the work done that I want in mine it could be an option. Have been recommended a 2300rpm stall for mine. But if Norwoods say otherwise then I’ll let you know.
I did the t56 conversion I did $3k for a fresh rebuilt box from some gearbox company I can not remember now All the rest was malwoods, $1700 for a ace option 3 clutch witch I would highly recommend, I’m pumping something like 460rwkw through it and holding up fine, billet slave cyilendar, remote blender, quick time shatter proof bell housing, under dash hydrolic clutch, billet resiviour braided line, a Th400-t56 tuff mount to a T5 cross member and 2 by 20mm spacers and a malwoods short throw middle mount shifter and front half of tail shaft and all bolts and bits required All up every thing was $7k but that’s with very little expensive spared (Not possitive on this but pretty sure but probley wrong ) i wouldn’t suggest finding a VR-vs t56 as they are hydrolic to cable and not the best clutch selections out there for them Also wouldnt suggest a tr6060 as doin a t56 magnum would be better option Not sure on zf6 speeds on how much they cost but am sure a magnum would compete with it strength wise and to even distroy a t56 takes serious power End of the day get a t56 for $900-$1000, find a hydrolic clutch peddle and a bell housing as they are both $800 each, rest of the stuff is pretty good price from mal woods
It isn’t just the clutch and box price I’m concerned with. It’s the other little things that add up. $7k is what I was thinking because I want to do it properly and do it once.
May 25, 2016 at 8:34 pm #17198
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264Looks awesome. Great for a home spray job.
May 23, 2016 at 9:59 pm #17143
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264Yeah leaning towards repairing the auto more than doing the conversion. Would love a manual but the cost blow out won’t be worth it I think.
May 23, 2016 at 9:42 pm #17138
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264about a month too late, i just sold my hydraulic pedal box that i had, but if you interested i have a VS V8 Manual wiring harness and ECU here, i’ve only just listed it on ebay few days ago but yet to put pictures up last one i spotted one on ebay sold for $600, was on ebay for less than a day, which is why i listed mine up at the same price if your interested PM and i’ll do a better price
Not sure the VS stuff will be any good for mine as the BCM is different and may require a bit of work to get working properly. The hydraulic pedal box I reckon I can get and know of one for sale. Although still won’t be cheap and can vary from $3-$400.
$3k for a trans rebuild seems a little high? Try giving Grant at Norwood Auto’s a call for a quote. Not saying not to go manual btw, just want to make sure you are comparing apples with apples cost wise?
^ yea fair enough, be interesting to know the full cost of manual conversion if you are paying someone to do it all? I am guessing NickVR you don’t have the time/space to do it yourself?
Id allow $4k. For the conversion. + clutch if you want a good one. $3500 for a t700 still seems high IMO
Norwood Automatics is the next place to try as recommend by a good mate of mine. Even better that they are closer to home too. Speaking to my mate he said to allow for about $3k to fix but should come in under that. But always allow for higher as you never know. Wouldn’t pay someone to do the conversion, would give it a go myself. Time doesn’t matter to me because the car can sit for as long as needed till fixed so no issue there. Space is not too bad, did an engine conversion in that space so a gearbox swap shouldn’t be too bad. Access to a hoist would be awesome and I could probably borrow one easily enough to get the box and tailshaft in at least but on the floor is where it would probably happen.
I am allowing $3-3.5k so I don’t get any surprises. I spoke a friend of mine who is quite the guru when it comes to Commodores and doing things properly he said about $2500-$3k. He suggested I speak to Norwoods as he is very fussy and anything he has needed or wanted they have delivered. Along with the suggestion of using Norwood Automatics he gave me a run down of what I would possibly be up for when repairing my trans.
- Fix the current trans kit and alter pressures so it is not only a hard shift from 1-2 but 3-4 as well. The current trans kit in it would more than likely be an off the shelf item fit with no modification.
- Deeper pan. More oil equals a better ability to keep the fluid cool. Able to fit trans temp sensor.
- New converter. Rebuilding the old one is not the best way about it. Getting a new one means a smaller converter and can be 2300rpm stall. The rebuilt unit will only go 21-2200 and not be that great.
- New trans cooler. Just an Aeroflow one will do but fitting a fan to it and a gauge in the cabin too.This way I can keep an eye on temps and turn on the fans when the temp rises.
- Plus the repair of 3-4 clutch possibly a billet servo and other mods required to be better at handling any sort of power.
As for the manual conversion, had a quick brain storm with the same friend. To do it properly and finding a good condition box and doing things properly could cost about 5-6k. That is with a new or near new box and without taking small things that can come along the way. So potentially could cost more.
- Gear box – $1500-$2500
- Adaptor or New Bellhousing – $750 (Going by the above link)
- Clutch $1000-$2000 (Depending on type)
- ECU Wiring and speedo mod – $600-$?????
- Tailshaft – $500-$1000 (Only guessing with this one)
- Pedal Box – $300-$500 (Going rate for hydraulic pedal box)
- Cross Member to suit custom or of shelf if possible – $?????
- Master cylinder – $250+ (Quick Ebay search)
- Miscellaneous Items – $200-$400 (Bolts, Fluids and Labour to make or help modify where required)
Just using the cheaper prices on this quick brainstorm of things required and costings. The total will be a touch over $5k or nearly $7.5k on the dearer side of the equation without knowing the max cost on some things or costing at all. So between $5k and $8k at worst would be my guess.
Sorry for the essay, lol. If anyone thinks I have over quoted on any parts feel free to adjust it but I think that would be about right with in reason.
May 22, 2016 at 9:43 pm #17077
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264After speaking to a few more people regarding my transmission issue it looks like I am better off getting the trans properly rebuilt. This will cost around the $3k-$3500 roughly (probably over quoting a little). Also got recommended to use Norwood’s as Gary suggested which is closer for me than MV’s.
From what I have been told and a quick diagnosis of my problem and what my trans is I will need a proper rebuilt including a new converter, new trans pan with temp sensor plus gauge and a good trans cooler with fan to keep me from having a repeat of these issues. It also got me thinking about the cost to convert to a manual trans.
Started a new thread to discuss it, so feel free to add your opinions and knowledge to it.
May 22, 2016 at 9:04 pm #17074
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264The badge does look good, that engine bay will to I’m sure.
May 16, 2016 at 7:56 pm #16931
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264Great photo. Those wheels do look awesome on it.
May 15, 2016 at 9:19 am #16866
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264Gary has basically covered it. One thing I like to see is when people get big wheels they get the brakes to match. Then when you go more power you will have problem pulling it up too.
April 30, 2016 at 8:29 pm #16470
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264Should see about getting them reproduced in billet.
Or 3d printed
There is always that too, lol.
Now who do we know that has a 3d printer…..
You know a guy?
April 30, 2016 at 8:28 pm #16469
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264Might be injectors too if it’s been sitting for a while. Mine didn’t like to idle and would stall when coming to a stop. Changed the injectors and it was fine, used to foul plugs too.
April 29, 2016 at 8:56 am #16430
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264Should see about getting them reproduced in billet.
Or 3d printed
There is always that too, lol.
April 28, 2016 at 10:11 am #16404
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264Sounds interesting. I wonder how reliable it will be. It will be good to see it filter out in to normal mass produced cars and maybe in the future adapted to older engines too.
April 28, 2016 at 9:51 am #16401
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264Be interested to see what he recons for the clutch pack & mods. IJ seems to be able to get one to hold together (I couldn’t) They just seem to be a very hit and miss kinda deal, some make them last, but some (like me) get a few 100 k’s and they let go. Trouble is its basically box out every time there is an issue and that starts to build up the $$ and lose its humorous side very quickly…
Yeah same here. Being a trans specialist I hope that he can fix it and that will be the last of the problems. A mate of mine had a Jatco built by him for his RX4 drag car and has had customers trans done by him too, so he recommended him.
Took me 9 goes to get it right when I started building them, have a system now and so far so good! Michael at MV is a good guy he’ll fix it!
Wow, you must have some patience then.Yeah, Michael seemed like a great guy and knew what he was talking about. To have quite few people recommend him speaks volumes I think.
Gave up on mine after two, but can only blame myself, i built it! Nick we have to organise a CP get together soon!
I probably wouldn’t haven’t gone past one, lol. Yeah definitely need to organise something, it will be after my trans is fixed though. If not I’ll find a car worthy of taking out.
Loving the look of this thing! Can’t put my finger on exactly what sets it off.. Hopefully you can get the trans sorted and get your tune done soon!
Thanks mate. I love the look of it too. Could probably make it a bit lower (maybe an 1/2 inch-1 inch) but it doesn’t get much attention from the cops and fingers crossed it stays like that. Otherwise I will have to spend a shit load of money on it and it will sit in the shed for a long time.
Not sure when I’ll book it in to get fixed but hopefully soon. The next hardest part is getting it tuned again, Leon is a hard man to get a hold of, but he knows his shit.
Also bought some spare centre caps off Gumtree. They were a bit expensive, but what price can you put on something that doesn’t get put up for sale that often. Now the 2 spare wheels I have, will have centre caps too. Should see about getting them reproduced in billet.
April 27, 2016 at 4:07 pm #16376
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264Yesterday I went to get the car retuned to suit the diff ratio change. I has 3:73 gears now and have done the 1000k’s plus and diff oil change that is required before seeing a dyno.
Was all going well until the tuner went to load it up on the dyno and the engine light came on. I had never seen the engine light come on for anything before. He looked in to it and it was trans related. Looked at the trans temp and it was fine at around 86 Degrees, coolant temp was a bit high but nothing to be concerned about. In the end he found the trans was slipping at high rpm. The allowed slippage (engine speed to trans output speed) factory limit is 200 (not sure what the numbers meant, I assume RPM) but mine got up to 850. Checked the trans fluid and it was full, didn’t smell burnt or anything so it might be 3-4 clutch needing to be replaced. He didn’t go any further with the tune as it was pointless if the trans was going to slip.
Today I went to see MV Automatics after being referred there by a couple of mates. Spoke to the guy about what it was doing on the dyno and possible causes. He agreed that it sounded like 3-4 clutch was probably worn but they can check that and fix it easily. I also spoke to him about the converter and getting one suited more to the cam that it has (Crane 272, from what the tuner can tell). He suggested a stall size of around 2200-2300 would be perfect for it and they can get mine rebuild to suit it. All up the job will be around $1300 providing that is all that needs to be done. I said to look over the rest of it and see if there was anything else that he would recommend upgrading too while it was out because if I ever want more power or even chuck a whipple on it then I want to know it can handle it. Now to save up some funds and book it in to get it done but the cost was about what I was thinking which is good but will budget a bit more just in case he comes back with other things he recommends.
April 25, 2016 at 8:08 pm #16322
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264Good to see the Senator still makes it in Street Machine.
Edit: Added a photo but its too big. Will try again.
http://http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/
- This reply was modified 8 years, 7 months ago by NickVR.
March 7, 2016 at 8:53 pm #14838
NickVRParticipant- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264Make sure you keep this as stock as possible. Not many left like this.
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