[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Very nice.  What type of scoop is that mate? Any pics of the underside of the bonnet?

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

+1  TCE.

I use a 5200 stall, not an off the shelf job so you do pay a bit more.  But it drives very smoothly and does it’s job when you accelerate.  Just have to remember to update cooling capabilties of auto with higher stall converter.  Stacked plate style oil cooler was the better type when I was looking.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

No good mate.  Not having knock sensor active and static 24deg would definately be hurting power.  AFR all good on the dyno?

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

They’re rear upper control arms.  By lengthening or shortening arms, they allow you turn diff nose up or down, effectively changing the angle power travels through diff.  (pinion angle) Helps with traction.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

When’s the roadworthy booked Gary?

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Only thing is, there’s a bit of block prep involved when you start going out at 383. Then you have to start thinking about 4 bolt mains or stud girdle at the least and updating a few other things, the roll on effect that comes with 600+ hp.  But I agree Manta, it’s not too difficult to make that power fairly cheaply, hard part would be getting it all to last with that budget.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Very broad question Muckrunner 30.  Depends on intended application, future mods as funds become available etc.  As others have said, regardless of what engine mods you do, you may still have to address driveline and fuel system to cope.  You would blow most of your budget doing the LS conversion side of things and still have the standard output.

That crate engine is pretty good value!

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

TP Holden cast iron block = $6600.  Anywhere out to 443ci. This block uses all Holden gear, the big paw (alloy up to 560ci) is filled with Chev components.

I am told, you can use most of your existing holden parts, minus cam @ $700, lifters @ $1000.  You need his timing chain ass. and cam / lifters due to cam offset.  Timing chain  @$200. Can use your rocker gear (for this motor, I’d be using decent gear) Need his pistons.  YT heads bolt on even though his blocks have provision for 6 stud style TP head or T&M adapted head.  Holden sump bolts on.  Rod length determines capacity.

So not totally out of reach, will still add up though. But you pay for quality. Would be worth looking into vs doing LS conversion if you plan to hot the LS up a bit.

But with TP little paw, no need to stress about stroker clearance issues, grout filling to strengthen block, oiling modifications etc as you do with a convensional Holden block because he has addressed all of these issues with thicker water jacket walls, valley webbing, primary oil mains oiling mods etc.  Roller block with all mains being 4 bolt too.

Definately food for thought…

• This reply was modified 9 years, 7 months ago by  Narva*2010.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Gonna sound like a real tool here, but had ignition issues all day and a miss at 5500rpm + but ran 10.7 @ 126.  Comp will go from 12.3 to around 13:1, cam is changing from Comp Cam to Crane Cam. 264/274,  .705 lift.

Nathan Higgins to do the heads if he is happy.  He originally ran the CNC program through them in the first place.

Part of the reason for the refresh was to make sure all mechanical was ok due to this miss at high rpm, and to piss that comp cam off and to change ring pack.  As expected, finger pointed at ignition.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Think it’s only oil pump pick-up.  Not alot of torque required and addtional bracket off oil pick up tube is secured via one mains bolt.   But can see your point.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Pulled the 396 down and still clean as.  No unexpected issues (costs) So, bigger cam, higher comp and money put aside can now go toward getting more out of the heads!

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Got the engine out, hung over as fuk and didn’t scratch anything!

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Thanks Gary, I think I will put a small thread together when I have it up and running in around 4 weeks (hopefully)

And couldn’t agree more with VS Manta 218.  At least you’ll know you’re getting a quality built motor from Cav 454. Thats the beauty or curse of the modified scene.  You spend big dollars to get it up to where you want it, then you have to let it go at a fraction of what it owes you.   You’ll never build a replica engine for the same price even if you are capable of doing all the work yourself.

If I was starting out SSEn8r, I would seriously consider that set up.  It is a good platform for improvement if you wanted to take it to the next level with a wipple etc. (girdle)

On paper, an 11 second car isn’t that quick by todays standards with everything being boosted.  But, it’s not until you run an 11 for the  first time that you realise how fu*king fast it actually is.  Especially considering the latest Ford offering (Herrod built I think..) is putting out 500kw and has only achieved a 13 second pass.  (Must be issues with that surely??)

Anyway SSEn8r, build what you want.  It’s an exciting time being at the stage that you are.  It absolutely consumes you.  And that old cliche is true, you will never be happy with your power level.  You’ll always be searching for more…  Enjoy your build mate.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

<span style=”color: #555555; font-family: Oxygen, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 20px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%;”>^always good to hear other peoples real world experiences. At the end of the day it (like so much about cars) comes down to personal taste/preference etc. First gens are quite a bit lighter than 2nd gens though, its a guess only, but what would you think your engine would run in a VR/S IRS rear, low 10’s?</span>

Not sure Gary.  There is a bloke with a burnt orange VR / VS Senator with a centrifugal blower on it.  From memory, he has close to my fwhp at the rear wheels.  He is running low 11’s.  Yeah, yours is a fair bit heavier than the early commodores.  With that sort of power around the 350rwkw, (from what I’ve seen at the track) anything in second gen Commodores are in the 11’s.

My set up in a second gen Commodore (only guessing) would be mid to low 11’s.

But obviously there are soo many variables.  There seems to be issues in getting the power down with the IRS.  I have a 4 link rear with 295’s so getting the power down is a little easier.

A VE with 600 rwhp I raced against was running consistant 11.2 at Calder.  His mph was way up though.

 

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Yeah, Purple.  Not my colour of choice.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

I’ve gone the Holden stroker option.  Nope, going LS never entered my mind.  I don’t regret it at all.  It’s not as easy as just swapping out the crank unfortunately.  I depends what stroke you want, what conrod you want and thereis a bit of block work to do.

Pre E85, my N/A Holden stroker made 630 fwhp / 470kw and just under 500lbft.  WPN 383 is running 9’s consistently with his 383 N/A Holden. He’s on the path to mid 9’s too.

You need to think out the combination carefully.  You’ll get the Holden to match any LS.   It does take extra coin.  If I was to start again, I would use a TP Holden 427ci base I reckon.  They weren’t around when I started my build.

Just my 2 cents

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Stripping down Saturday. Will take some pics of before and after.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Holden all the way (if you take common sense out of the equation) On my wish list, the TP Big Paw 560ci alloy block in an early Commodore. At only @ 36k, need to win tatts lotto.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Thanks HSV865. I’m a bit hesitant about banging on about it on forums, people are probably sick of hearing about the car.

It has a Holden roller block stroked to 396ci. Grouted, o-ringed, CNC -9 Yella Terra heads, TP Pro Paw intake, E85, Holley Ultra XP 850dp. It actually hasn’t seen the 1/4 with the TP manifold. Tubbed and 4 point removable cage. T400 trans. 9″ diff.

Best 1/4 at the moment, 10.7 @ 126mph. Have had a constant miss over 5500rpm, so will be testing a different ignition system. Engine comes out this week. Going a bigger cam and higher comp. Will be up around 13:1.

So not sure what it’ll run after that. Hopefully a bit quicker with the ignition system I’ll be testing, but probably not a great deal quicker I don’t think until it gets NOS.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Before E85 and TP Pro Paw conversion and after.

• This reply was modified 9 years, 7 months ago by  Narva*2010.

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