[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>Good stuff Gary. Most know the frustrations of slow progress.  Enjoy it.</p>
<p style=”text-align: left;”></p>

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Exec24, I fitted my on the opposite side of trans cooler return line and close to the filter and pick-up point of filter.  With the extra capacity pans, I wanted to pick up the temp as close to that actually going into the box.  Probably unnecessary and anal though.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

 

<span style=”color: #555555; font-family: Oxygen, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 20px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: #fbfbfb;”>I don’t think it’s close to the best VN in Australia but I think it’s getting close to the best SV5000 :)</span>

 

Still one of my favourite Commodores on the scene at the moment.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

I need you at work mate… Great presentation

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

I need you at work mate… Great presentation

 

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

What sort of vibration mate? Is it there at certain speeds or is it rpm related, under accel or decell? Not questioning  the diagnosis, but have you tried putting it in neutral at speed to let engine return to idle rpm?  May help in separating driveline vs engine vibration issues.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

<span style=”color: #555555; font-family: Oxygen, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 20px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: #fbfbfb;”>Be gentle with that Z Grip until it’s replaced, when mine let go it destroyed the bell housing as in no bellhousing left – smashed starter, smashed block and sump, broken gearbox bosses, holes in fire wall , smashed inlet manifold, tore through brake lines ( no brakes) damaged wiring loom, blew a tyre out. But I do still have both feet !!!</span>

 

Fuk mate.  That’s insane.  You’re very very lucky!!

 

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Very nice mate. Keep the updates coming

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Wasn’t it Enzo Ferrari that said horsepower sells cars, torque wins races?

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Good to see a good paint guy / finisher here.

I have a question, theses waterless cleaners like F1 and McGuires.  Do they work or am I’m not using the shit properly.

I’m just talking about just dust removal here.  When I use these, they leave swirls in the wax.  I use a new rag too.

What’re are your thoughts on these waterless products mate?

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Congrats mate.  You have done an awesome job.

 

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Starter motor issues with heat!!

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Yeah.  Buy the right stuff, don’t use compressed air. Works well

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Over the Westgate mate, Altona. I fuel up in Hoppers Crossing and Point Cook. We have heaps of E85 out this way, but I reckon I’ll stick to the Westgate Bridge United.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Morning,

Engine had done maybe 3,000km.  Half on PULP, the other 1500 on E85.  I noticed when swapping out a Come Manifold to a TP ProPaw.  Then engine out to put a bigger cam, up comp and change ring pack.

Didn’t realise it was down too much on power.  10.8 @ 125 on PULP vs 10.7 @ 126 on E85. It should’ve gone better on the E85 than it did, but it’s hard to test power on street, esp in 1st and 2nd.  Did a few dyno’s but always had ignition issues.  But yes, I did think it didn’t seem to go as hard as it first did.

It’s carby.  I reckon if injected, it wouldv’ve packed it in by now.

The additive is like a fuel conditioner supposed to lubricate pump, prevent corrosion associated with E 85 and has inhibitors that prevent the formation of Gums and Varnish.

Just out of courtisy, letting you know I have put this on another forum. (Sorry Gary) I’m looking for feed back from Melbourne lads as to where they fuel up and if they’ve had any issues.  As I said, I’m suspect on one of the servos here.  You get told when changing to E85, flush everything, the ethanol will pick up all the shit in your tank and put it through you engine… I think the boys at this servo used an old tank to put their E85 in…

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Agreed.  Get it done FLI 355. You won’t regret it and you’ve got a car thats definately worthy of this engine.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Street friendly is something you could deal with every day in all traffic conditions on 40 degree days and not worrie about it in the slightest way and not get pulled over and if you do the cops don’t blink a eye at it and defected it because of it’s noise or illegal stuff
could jump in after 2000km of no service and happily drive from QLD to VIC and go to drags and turn around and go back then do a service so some day soon when you get around to it

like  what he has right now Who would agree something similar along these lines is 100% street friendly ? i would say something that requires regular spark plug changes, your peaking out about doin a oil changes after 2-3k km and contemplate sticking it on a trailer to go inter state or 400km away is a street machine that can be driven on the road but is not 100% street friendly it’s just street usable and iffy if the cops pull you over dont get me wrong here I’m not doubting 600hp can be done , I know it can, iv seen it heaps of times and have friends with them but my point was he was told could build a 600hp engine to be 100% street friendly and with hydrolic cam
what are your honest thoughts on that ????
all iv said is it’s requires big solid roller  cam, loud engines ,bigger then off the shelve pipes, in a vn-vs  usually 7500 rpm and alloy heads are a great idea at level of either COME or like cava said dash-9  and it’s not 100% street friendly like he would have now it’s is street user able but defects are always a Radom breath test away
Please dont think I’m trying to deter him or anything, please do build a monster engine for this,  like he says it’s not his daily it’s toy and as always  I support him 100% and would like to follow his build look at my thread I’m the last person to say don’t build a rediculious  engine

Nah mate, I totally see where you’re coming from. That’s what these forums are all about.  Love it.  Bare in mind I write this dribble based on my experience running an engine similar to what FLI355 wants to build and these are only my opinions Pete .  Take with a grain of salt.
Firstly, any over zealous copper can canary any car.  Ours, (including yours) are just more susceptible.  I wouldn’t drive my old VC Commodore on a 40 deg day, only because thermos heat the cabin up to 50+ deg.  But I have done it in the past to do C4C.  Obviously, with this power, the standard block needs strengthening, like reinforcing water jackets to compensate taking out material to accomodate the larger stroker kits.  So the block gets grouted and cooling system suffers.  However, there are mobs that now build good cooling systems, coupled with good thermos etc.  I can drive mine at 40deg days, I just cook my nuts off.  The engine doesn’t over heat.  Plus E85 burns much cooler to keep temps down.  With an engine like this, I think you also want an ASR sump or similar to get alot of oil capacity in to assist with engine temps.
As for service longevity, anyone running E85, whether it be a 400hp or 600+ hp engine NEEDS to do regular oil changes.  Even with additives, it is harsh on oil.  But there is certainly no issue with the coupla hundred kay round trip.  I do it regularly, as does Todd.  But that again comes back to an E85 issue and availabilty of same, a would be problem also encountered by the old  400hp comparison engine.
Get the right plug, and interval changes should be as what you would expect with that 400hp engine, I think plug life span comes down to ignition system.  The programable MSD and HVC coils put out a rediculous spark hit, that will wear any plug.  Plus ideally a start retard box for cranking.

Yeah big SR cams.. Point conceded here.  However, most lads on these and similar sites know how to check valve clearance / valve train.  I would imagine the guys running boost would periodically check also?  I ran the off the shelf Pacemaker 1″ 3/4 tri y jobs.  I got no room for 4 – 1, but still hit 630hp on PULP, which was only a tad over 12:1 comp.  Yeah, good heads are a must.  But FLI 355 is willing to park out the cash.  I don’t think that has an impact on street manners however.  I used a COME single plane, all of which was compact enough to not have to cut a hole in the bonnet.  (thats changed though recently)
Boosted engines have advantages over NA.  But also have their disadvantages.  As I said earlier, provided the right components are used that compliment each other, the 600hp N/A engine is very streetable.  I just don’t think you can compare to Gary’s large cube engine, or your supercharged combo.  But I can attest to this, mine (and I’m sure FLI 355 pending project) handle the street just fine.  (not 100% by all means, but that wasn’t the original point of contention)
Would like to hear from Todd on this, might send the link and see if he can chime in.

• This reply was modified 9 years, 8 months ago by  Narva*2010.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Good thread.  Manta, what is the definition of street friendly?

FLI 355’s engine builder is pretty good at what he does.  This is not about bragging, it’s to back up FLI 355 here.  My Holden V8 has a big SR cam, high compression etc.  FLI 355 has said $ is not an issue, which is what stops people doing this to a Holden V8.

Will need 4 bolt mains, there will be no issue with conrods etc. TK knows the recipe.  They can be made to be reliable and streetable.  Mine went 630hp on PULP and drove fine.  Set the rest of the combo up to match and there is no issue.  Mine idles at 1000rpm, does not overheat, drives great.  But, mine is through an Auto.

Todds is the same.  His shits all over mine down the 1/4, as he stayed with a non 9″ diff.

I’m in the process of going bigger cam, going higher comp and E85.  Go for it FLI 355!!! Just keep this thread updated.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

I painted my flexible t-bar slide.  Comes up like new.  Not much can be done about gear indicator and it’s hard to find good ones

 

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Only me, but I would replace them mate.

[Author]

Posts