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  • #21811
    Profile photo of Manny
    Manny
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    Member since: July 19, 2016
    Posts: 9

    Without decent heated enclosure large ABS is really a challenge to control warping

    The route I’ve taken in the past for these kinds of thing is to print an inner or outer mould and use either fiberglass or carbon for the finished product.

    Print out an mould in PLA, sand, prime, fill to desired finish. Seal and spray with mould release and lay up your fiber of choice. You can use the print itself or make a more traditional negative with fiberglass then use that as the mould for the carbon.

    Another option could be to print the negative in ABS and just cover the outside directly with carbon. Heat resistance + strength + less concerns about ABS surface finish.

    I’m sure if you persevere a solution  with straight ABS will prevent itself. The more i print the more i realize these thing are absolutely fantastic for prototypes but fall a little short for production in some cases.

    • This reply was modified 7 years, 8 months ago by Profile photo of Manny Manny.
    #19708
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    Manny
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    Member since: July 19, 2016
    Posts: 9

    Just a follow up on this encase anyone is interested.

    Issue was the coolant temperature sensor. Replaced and all is well in the world :)

    Thanks
    Manny

    Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

    #19654
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    Manny
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    Member since: July 19, 2016
    Posts: 9

    Thanks for all the tips, I’ll give ti the once over agian but 99% it’s not mechanical at this point

    Done all the other basics like compression test etc.. Next is dump exhaust/intake see if there is a restriction there (dead cat?) causing the over fueling then move onto the ignition system.

    Attached the diagnostics from today, problem being today is one of the days the problem didn’t arise..

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    #19464
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    Manny
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    Member since: July 19, 2016
    Posts: 9

    Further to this.

    Checked return line with external line, Clear.

    Double checked injectors for leak during prime, All fine.

    Pretty much ruled out all mechanical issues, almost has to be electrical but not sure how to go about diagnosing electrical issues?

    Another theory is fouled plugs but that doesn’t work with the fact the car runs fine on cold start.

    Picked up a second hand ECU form a VS v6, i’ll swap the memcals over and give that a try see if the driver is shorted.

     

     

    #19460
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    Manny
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    Member since: July 19, 2016
    Posts: 9

    Possibly. But the issue remains with standard 304 injectors and standard pressures.

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    #19456
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    Manny
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    Member since: July 19, 2016
    Posts: 9

    Injectors are VT items. I’ll try the black tops and drop the rails too 43psi in the morning.

    Honestly have no idea at this point.

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    #19449
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    Manny
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    Member since: July 19, 2016
    Posts: 9

    What is the actual pressure when the engine is running?

    I’d suggest that the stock FPR with A1000 pump might be on the small side possibly causing excessive fuel pressures.

    Do you have a non-return valve in the supply side after the pump but before the rail?  If not that would explain why the pressure drops after priming.

    Standard pump. Aeromotive A1000 Regulator that came off another project.

    Fuel Pressure is set at 47psi.

    Using standard configuration, Feed into drivers rail, crossover into passanger rails, into reg then back to tank. Reg is bypass.

    Don’t have non return valve.

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