[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

They finally got to me so my photo’s are all of limits on the forum now

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

Hey Gary Nice work if you get a chance buy a set of shrinker’s and stretchers , I think we all start out with no or old gear

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

picture of how I did the power steering line same as brake lines and fuel it may help anyone going to do it

 

 

 

• This reply was modified 7 years, 3 months ago by  Judge1 Frazer. Reason: delete puss bucket links

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

Thanks Nick

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

hey Immortality finding the VH was just luck really  the green Vb took about six months to find but once done I am selling the vb, the Vh is just more fresh to start from and means I’m not changing a factory v8 sle

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

Hey cava  Yeah I do like it that way used about 600mm more tube but better than in engine bay

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

Hey Heron yes as once you have a bend in tube your not going to get it straight again , so when you bend up the wire then just trace it bend for bend to the tube if you search on you tube I’m sure there will be some thing

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

Get a good bender and some no.6 fence wire to bend up what you want before bending the tube itself and patience

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

Hey all Just another photo update , front end in brake lines drive shaft all done, undersealed all done fuel tank is in just putting fuel line in using aero-flow aluminium not bad but soft got some east-wood tube benders for the brake and fuel lines made a very neat job

 

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

Hey Gary try welding a bolt to them then you can use a socket I’m assuming you want reuse them ,replace with hex countersunk instead

• This reply was modified 7 years, 4 months ago by  Judge1 Frazer.

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

My two cents sorry carva for the hijack but I don’t mind the look of the lsa  now the standard Ls in my opinion is not nice to look at but hey each to there own ,I like it neat and clean but would not do a show car as I want to drive the dam thing , so some up for me is clean, tidy and strong so less likely to break stuff

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

It’s all ways good to know what products work

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

Hey Gary  there is a crc product zinc-it   it works well

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

Nice Gary it’s a funny thing when you think you can not do something then do it

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

yip you have to respect the power as one day you don’t it will bite hard

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

Hi all just a small update just photos really engine all painted and back in the car still got brakes and lines, front suspension ,power steering ,fuel lines to do

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

Yip I did price the malwood 700 buck plus  ,, this was cheaper just my time and I had all the parts

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

just an idea could Gary print some or would he need to copy one first

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

vl are too hard to find also bore size is to small ,, vr-vs fire wall is different so pedal box is different not sure on vn-vp ,, plus I’ve never seen a vr-vs hydro box ,, it’s just thinking out side the box to make it work also more to get rid of cable as that’s what  makes the pedal hard

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

Clutch t56 putting this up so may help someone in the future, so some may know that the early t56 vr-vs come out with a cable hydraulic clutch so cable on pedal to a hydraulic master then over to the passenger side slave and it’s all a pull clutch, this made it a real heavy clutch this was a big issue as it started damaging syncros mainly reverse , so converting to hydraulic only.

This is what I have done once on a vk and a vr gst worked well the gst was a pig to drive and that’s being nice you had to turn car off to get it in reverse oh and do 60kg leg pushes,  I have just made it better with the vb first I used a auto pedal box as it has no hole for clutch cable but has the prevision for the clutch pedal had the manual box as well just used the pedal , so worked out were to drill the hole for the master in the p/box ( note all the stuff is reused Master and slave) drilled hole in clutch pedal for rod pin then bolted master to p/box and welded nuts on the back then got some larger 8-10mm thick nut and welded on to the front of the p/box as they have the 10mm rubber between the box and fire wall once that was done I had to weld up the hole in the fire wall so I could drill a nice neat hole were the master would go and the bolts boles as well.

Now that is done with hydraulic you need a stop point so you don’t bottom master out or make the fork hit the side of the pressure plate , behind the clutch pedal below the pivot point I welded a plate with nuts, between  the side where the clutch pedal pin runs use a bolt with a nut screwed into the plate with the welded nut the other nut is the locking point when it’s all set up.

photo’s below hopefully make more sense once done you should be able two use two fingers to push clutch , reservoir is simple I’m sure you’ll be able to work that part out

Hey Gary not sure if you want to put the in the tech section

the first photos of the original set up just have not shown the cable goes into the box the master is on

• This reply was modified 7 years, 6 months ago by  Judge1 Frazer. Reason: spelling

[Author]

Posts