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Do the trumpets have mesh on them? If they do could you swap to finer stuff? Or would it reduce airflow.
Mentions poor filtration from the intake. Are you going to try and find a solution to that or just keep changing the oil?
I’m not one for tacky stickers / plastic dip but that HRT scheme you did looks killer! Nice work mate.
Great work mate, the shame about these small details is most people will never notice and appreciate the time, effort and skill required for these sorts of little pieces.
Another reason why in depth threads are the best way to look at someone else’s build.
Thanks mate, ended up with the Castrol high temp bearing stuff.
Got the bearings pressed in.
Also got the handbrake assembly’s fitted up after cleaning and painting the arms. They were supposed to be gloss black but the paint can lied to me and they’ve come out satin, oh well will only get covered in dirt and grime anyway.
All that’s left to do know is press the stub axles in and bolt the rear pieces back onto the splines. Then it’s ready for custom driveshafts.
Off to work tomorrow and not back until the new year. So until then this will be all haha. :bye:
Did not try heat, just wanted it done asap. Was easier to run them up to the old man’s work real quick
Will try sticking the spindles in the freezer to shrink them down when re assembly begins. Just need to clean up the arms and paint them gloss black.What grease did you use for the bearings and handbrake assemblies Gary? Let the last piece of the puzzle for me.
Back from work so a bit more progress has been made, have stripped both sets of arms down, removed the spindles and not the VS arms are currently at a workshop having new bearings fitted.
What the arms look like with the spindles removed.
Most of the bearing remains in place, however one section of it sticks to the spindles when removed. I tried using a pulley removal tool to remove them, but I couldn’t get them to grip on the small lip the bearings had.
Even after filing down the arms like so,
I still had no luck.
Now that they’re all apart i could see the differences between the VT-VZ style arms and the VS.
There is NO difference on the spindles or the piece that connects to the driveshafts. I was hoping these pieces would be a different size, so i could mix and match parts between the generations to get the shorter VS drive shafts to bolt up but had no luck.
VS left, VZ right ( you can also see the remaining piece of the bearings on each spindle )
So with this setup you will need custom driveshafts made unfortunately, which adds a fair bit to the cost.
With everything being the same, I will be using the VZ spindles / driveshaft connecting pieces as they’re in a bit better condition and haven’t travelled so far.
You must also use the VZ hard brake lines, as the VZ handbrake / dust shield has the bracket on it to secure the hard brake lines. With that all said and done, i painted the remaining parts and Monday ill be able to start re assembly.
Sorry for the essay, trying to keep it as informative as possible.
You could run them with a standard spring / shock mate, a lot of effort though.
I run camber adjustable control arm bushes in my setup, that do exactly the same thing, just not as much adjustment.
My VZ just tucks tyre at the rear with no / neutral camber using these bushes.
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W62927&sq=4789
Hey mate, did you do the T400 conversion into the calais yourself?
Was it tricky, or does it all bolt in pretty easy, i assume you cant drive it without a tune etc first.
Unrelated comment mate, I looked through your thread but couldn’t find anything.
Where abouts have you mounted your fuel system? And are the pumps noisy where you placed them?
What tyres are you running on the rear mate? From memory they’re just a set of ordinary Federals or something?
Might be time for some softer / stickier rubber.
Yours are a different story gaz man.
My wheels you can purchase in a 19X10 + 20 haha. So I wouldn’t need custom made wheels. But I’d rather change them up a bit anyways. Something 3 pc, polished lip, gunmetal centres. Just hard to find a style I love haha. I’m way to picky.
Wow that guy does some awesome work.
Might look a bit odd with dish on the rear not the front though.
Sooooo
Has it run a 10 yet
Only problem with concave, is the fronts almost always end up looking flat faced compared to the rears, and a lot of wheels designed with concave in mind look crap when they’re really flat.
So the plan is hopefully something with a bit of dish and concave. It takes me months to decide on a set of wheels haha :(
Recently SSR SP4’s looked promising, but im already leaning towards something else.
Maybe with a set of coupe 4 flares
The thought of simply going 10″ wide rears in the style of wheel it already has, has also crossed my mind. But that’s a bit boring now isn’t it
The Gforce items are designed for more tyre clearance, the suspension geometry remains the same, and the camber would also remain the same. If you were to fit those, you’d also need to weld in the brackets that change the mounting position of the arms to the subframe that Gary has linked above.
A photo popped up on my FB and I couldn’t resist doing a quick edit.
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This reply was modified 9 years ago by
Jaba.
Beautiful car mate, nothing beats an early girl with a tough set of welds.
What will the car be specd to run by ANDRA, 9.00 and slower ?
Sorry if the questions aready been asked Gary, but will it have to go back to the engineers for inspection / roadworthy now that it’s 2 speed not 4?
Looking forward to seeing this in action soon!
Same goes for the VT-VZ mate its all about the offset.
Have discovered a downside to using the VS control arms. You lose the adjustable toe rods.
I’m not overly dissapointed by it, it will just be like having a VT / VX S1 style rear end.
Down the track I may weld tabs onto the VS control arms to allow for the adjustable rods to be fitted, but that’s not a major concern.
Have everything I need now, so I’ll be cleaning up and striping everything down tomorrow.
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This reply was modified 9 years ago by
