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Current day I’m halfway through the rust repairs, and then I’ll be moving onto cutting out the firewall and sheeting it off with a nice bead rolled pattern to add a bit of strength and liven it up a little.
The ill be focusing on striping the entire inside down to bare metal, coating it, sound deadening and then hopefully my order from the states with all my suspension and driveline parts will be here and i can start putting it all together.
Christmas came early
Unfortunately ran into more rust with this thing after deciding to investigate what was hiding underneath these horrible patch panels.
I was hoping it was just rusted out where they had covered up, but unfortunately it goes a little deeper into the sill than that.
Yet to find out what behind this patch below the door hinge mounts but from feeling behind its the same story as the left hand side.
Fortunately you can get replacement panels for the outer skin, however I have not been able to find any replacements for the rest of the areas not covered by the panel below, all in all not too bad and will give me a chance to fabricate a few simple pieces to repair the rotted out areas without having to worry too much about it looking good as it will mostly never see daylight again.
In more exciting news I’ve purchased a motor and box. LS3 / TR6060 out of a VF2 SSV with 14,000k’s, close enough to new for me and at a very reasonable price.
Motor is finally out and gone!
Also received my fuel system parts from Summit today.
Aeromotive phantom 340 in tank fuel system to suit the carby style ricks tank. And a corvette regulator / fuel filter combo with – 6 fittings on each end.
Super impressed with the quality and finish of the pump system and it is quite a nice unit. The kit includes pre filters, foam baffling to avoid fuel surge and is completely universal as long as your fuel tank is between 5.5″ – 11″ deep.
This particular single pump model is good for up to 850HP N/A or 700HP FI, which should be plenty for now, if not its quite simple to swap to the dual pump 1200HP units.
Plan is to run braided line from the pump to the regulator, and hardline the rest of the way to the fuel rail.
Hey guys long time no speak, this is all copy pasted from other forums so excuse me if some things don’t make sense. Happy to clarify anything if need be.
So much to a few peoples disappointment I’ve decided to ditch the BBC / T400. Whilst the Big block was a lot of fun ultimately it wasn’t really what I was looking for and so I’ve decided to make the swap to a more pro touring oriented build.
Inspiration…
The new setup will be an LS3 / TR6060, Brand new subframe with all the fruit, torque arm rear suspension, wilwood 6 / 4pot brakes and a 285 / 335 wheel and tyre combo along with a bunch of other little things to suit ( mini tubs, flat firewall, pedal box, new gauges, wiring loom etc )
The exterior will stay is for now, i plan to track this car at collie / barbs and hopefully RAC if it remains open so i wont go dumping thousands into body work only to end up in a sandtrap / wall testing the limits of the car.
Motor and box have been sold and are due to be picked up this weekend, so the car currently looks like this…
I’ve also stripped the interior out, started removing all the sound deadner and seam sealer from the floor to check for any rust.
Found one little patch so far in the rear D/S foot well which hopefully isnt too much worse than whats pictured.
The only other area that needs some attention is the very top corner on the P/S, the floor is attached to the sill panels which have been abused on this car, causing the floor to come away from the sill seam when it was bent by a jack, stand etc. So that will need a bit of massaging and welding.
Other than that the floors seem super solid and it has had a new boot floor put in at some stage so its all good.
Will attack it with a wire wheel to bring it all back to bare metal, undercoat, dynamat, underlay and then finally new carpet will go in.
Pretty excited to actually build a car, the way I want it with hopefully little paid work. My big shipment of parts will be ordered beginning of next week and surprisingly it was only an extra $200 to ship the whole crate by air compared to sea, so it will be here in December rather than March, hopefully Christmas comes early :D
My target is to have it back on the road in time for Racewars, not competing unfortunately but it will be a good drive to test how good the car is on long drives, id like to road trip across to the East coast in it one day.
Hey Gary, i have a VZ cradle at home and VS control arms which bolt together perfectly, both cradles are almost identical in shape, the VS is just a little narrower.
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This reply was modified 8 years, 4 months ago by
Jaba.
Everything is now trimmed, couple of edges I’m not ecstatic about but not bad for a first attempt.
I just need some foam to then finish covering the fuel filler nozzle with the vinyl.
Started filling out the boot with some false walls to tidy it up a bit.
All the panels will have these sunken panels, which will be covered in suede and vinyl.
Battery will eventually go behind one, and a small tool box will be mounted on the other side, the panels easily pull out and are held in with velcro.
Nooooo never! You’ll have to wait until i pick it up in a few weeks. I consider it quite an upgrade.
Well, things have taken a bit of a turn and this thing is now for sale. I’ve impulse bought a new car that i just could not pass up for the price, deposit is down and i pick it up next time I’m home as the seller is also a FIFO worker and goes back to work today.
Let my workshop know i wont be bringing the car in today to have the diff installed as im selling the car and they’ve lined up someone interested in it to view it today. If i can get what im after, which i admit is top dollar for one of these cars, without even listing an add or posting a for sale post on forums / social media ill be pretty stoked.
Chasing 30k, will come with the new diff, bunch of spares / performance bits, and all original parts i’ve removed. If this bloke cant justify paying an extra 5k ontop of a similar standard car for 30k worth of modifications tuff titties.
CAD designer and now with 3D printing! I may have to put in a few more orders ;)
Dana gears and Truetrac ordered.
I fly home on the 5th and then to Thailand for the first week of my time off on the 6th.
Hoping the parts arrive so I can drop them and a spare VZ SV6 LSD diff off to get rebuilt with the new parts ready for my second week off at home.
Then once my new driveshaft are made its time for some 275 ets and see how low in the 11s I can go
What brand is genuine Michael? Few places over your side of the country do Eaton truetracs and motive gears for around $1100.
No problem Gary.
Gearbox has been repaired and reinstalled ready for pickup on the weekend. Unfortunately with working away and on nightshift it’s hard to keep in contact with what’s going on with the car. It’s just been repaired as standard I believe, when I dropped the car off I told him I didn’t want a shift kit or anything installed as I want it to shift / drive like a standard car, I also mentioned I’m happy to upgrade whatever weak components / failed components there are as long as it doesn’t affect drivevability to much. They were supposed to contact me with what parts I could upgrade etc and go from there but it seems they’ve just done the job. A little pissed off as it could just cost me more in the long run if the same parts fail again but I’m not too phased.
Next up I’m looking at doing 3:9 gears and a trutrac centre. I’ve found a set of brand new gears on gumtree, but I’m not 100% sure they’ll fit my diff.
They’re 28 spline the part number. Is as follows…
0575-016 WS 3 89 : 1 0
Is anyone able to help me out? The seller said they were purchased for his VL turbo, but it’s not a standard VL turbo diff / housing.
Cheers!
Wow thanks for that link Ij, really helpful!
Line pressures were hardly increased if at all on my car, it still drives like standard, he just spent a lot of time getting the shifts points right etc, it completely changed the way the car drove before the cam / stall. It was definitely my driving that killed the box not the way it was tuned. I have complete faith in the way the car is tuned.
Senator is now at the shop ready to have box removed and torn down. Contemplating whether to just repair it or rebuild with better internals, im leaning more to just repairing it as these boxes will never be bulletproof and I still want it as streetable as it can be, so I wont be going T400 unless I go for big cubes / FI.
Yeah mate gearbox has been tuned, tuner spent a whole day getting it right apparently.
Would the box still shift between 3/4 okay if the clutch packs were worn? It sifts fine between 1-2 + 3-4 just doesn’t automatically shift anymore.
Nope, just taking off from a stand still gave it stick to hold it in first. We in drive but was still in 1st gear the whole time.
Oh shit really? I’ve knit heard of the CV joints tearing themselves up.
Have encountered a problem, gave it a bit of stick last night and gearbox was not happy with me doing so.
As it went to change into second it smashed the limiter and acted as if it was in neutral. Wouldn’t take off in 3rd or 4th. It moves fine in 1st or 2nd of the line and changed between the two fine. Won’t change into 3rd, but if you manually change into third once you get the road speed up it will change between 3rd and 4th no problem.
So the only problems I can see is it won’t change from 2nd – 3rd and it won’t take off in 3rd or D.
Anyone had this problem before? The fact that it drives fine in all gears makes me think it’s a solenoid problem or something?
Found a solution
G Force sell a CV upgrade kit for my driveshafts, using stronger Porsche units.
Then I’ll just get my original shafts machined down and I’ll be good to go!
Gary when you measured up for driveshafts, did you do it once the subframe was back in the car, or before you installed it?
So the arms are now complete, i just have the issue of the driveshafts. Has anyone ever had custom length ones made?
The car will be running some pretty serious rubber, and I would like shafts that can cope with a few decent launches at the strip etc.
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This reply was modified 8 years, 4 months ago by
