[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

VRSenator065 wrote:

Thanks very much all, fitted a relay today as described, problem solved!! Actually its hard to tell from the pic but the original solenoid wire was pretty light gauge from new. Prob OK when the car was brand new but 30 years on, with the heat etc, nope. Went quite a bit heavier gauge, went for a long drive and its 35 degrees here. Started again no probs. Will try and post up a video later on at some stage. Thanks again everyone.   

That wire has certainly seen better days…

 

Good to hear it’s sorted

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

VRSenator065 wrote:

Thanks for the relay tip. Would anyone be able to show me a basic wiring layout of how to do it? I am guessing Supercheap would sell them? .

 

Are you familiar with the standard automotive relay which you can get from any major automotive retailer?

Basically, grab a 12v, 30amp relay from your preferred supplier and mount it somewhere on the passenger side.  Take the +12v wire that is normally connected starter motor solenoid and connect it to pin 86 on the relay and connect pin 85 to a good ground (earth) and that is the signal side of the wiring sorted.  Than get some heavy gauge wire at least as big as the original wire going to the starter motor solenoid (that you just connected to pin 86 in the relay) and run it from the battery to pin 87 on the relay, fitting a fuse is certainly a good idea (fit it at the battery end of the wire) and then run another wire (same heavy gauge) from the relay (pin 30) onto the starter motor solenoid.

 

This is a good example, just substitute starter motor where it says fuel pump in this drawing…

 

 

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

The starter motor relay kit is highly recommended as it will improve starting and also stop the ignition switch burning out which is a common fault in the early girl Commodores.

I’m not intricately familiar with the VL wiring  but if it’s similar to the earlier VB-VK it is also good to fit extra relays into the headlight harness which again is to stop the main headlight switch from burning out.

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

Good work, that torque curve is going to make a lot of fun/smoke….

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

Tuning is an art, the stupid thing is the max power/torque part is probably one of the easier bits and what most people are interested in (for bragging rights).  The cold start, idle (from cold to hot) part throttle applications and all the transitions between those points is where the time is spent getting it right.

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

I recon it will go past 800hp.

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

6 forward + 1 reverse

Nice work.

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

I’m really not a fan of the VL’s but good luck with the build.  Did you manage to get the rear tailgate lock mechanism out?

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

Anonymous wrote:

Mounts are easy, I made my own “tough mounts”… 1.5” CDW roll cage tube is 33mm ID, Superpro SPF2051K Suspension poly bushes are a perfect fit and you can buy 18mm bright steel bar that fits inside them for the crush tubes, 12mm hole through them and you’re good to go!

 

Great little recipe there 

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

Judge1 Frazer wrote:

Heron SSV wrote:

I’ve found a set of King springs and Monroe GT shocks on eBay for $650, any height I want. I think some coil overs need some mods to fit, or you can buy ones ready to bolt straight in, but they’re well over a grand.

yip I paid 1500 for mine I sent my struts to them and it all came back welded and together with crack tested and welding cert . the rear is just bolt in let me know and I can post pictures up

A true coil over for the rear of a Commodore that’s bolt in?  Tell me more

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

Getting the sucker off is only half the problem, re-installing can be just as much fun.

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

Well I’ve been out driving for an hour or so and the rear end is a lot more planted, even the missus commented it cornered better and was much more stable.   Previously it seemed to float/shimmy a bit when cornering under power.   I’m calling it a success. 

Now to sort out the subframe alignment issue.   Will pick up new bushes and figure out how to set the rear subframe at home.

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

Here you go, this is mine fitted.

I also did new rear shocks so it’s gonna be hard to say exactly what difference the diff mount will make but I just took it up the road and the rear end felt a lot more solid.

I also figured out that the rear subframe is probably out of alignment.  The diff mount is as far back as it will go on it’s mounting slots and the diff is still pushing back hard on the bushes, also the passenger side is a touch further back than the drivers side.  Looks like the front subframe bushes will need doing ASAP and then figure out how to align the sucker properly.  I know Holden have a jig, now to figure out how to set that up at home in the driveway.

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

The inserts can be quiet hard to fit, I know with mine I had to trim it slightly to make it fit.  I should refit it, I changed diffs and used the one fitted on the spare diff at that time.  That diff was only supposed to be on the car temporarily but it’s  still going ok so haven’t bothered to change it out yet.

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

exec24 wrote:

I’ve had the diff out once before. I thought while i was at it to replace the standard type rubber mount with nolathene type but when I went to do it couldn’t get the insert into the housing. i ended up giving up a refitting the stock one. now that I’m fitting the new diff soon, I’m just trying to work out the best option, I’m not real sure on the nolathene ones. I’m more leaning towards a Tuff Mounts one(similar to what you posted above) or the Harrop cover. But no one has much feedback on either

 

I think mine is a Tuff Mounts one, I got it from a supplier on Trademe in NZ but looking at the pics it’s identical and that supplier has other Tuff Mounts stuff for sale.

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

I’ve got the standard rear diff mount ATM, I also previously had the standard mount with the urethane insert.  With the insert I noticed a bit more vibration in the rear.

I have a new billet  alloy rear mount that has 2 rubber bushes, similar to this one but not from this company.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pontiac-GTO-04-06-Holden-VT-VZ-Commodore-Billet-Rear-Diff-Mount-Silver/372351689212?hash=item56b1e3e1fc:g:iiAAAOSwIzBbNltJ

Haven’t fitted it yet so can’t comment on the ride.  My mate has the Harrop diff cover with the increased fluid capacity and the 2 bushes and that seems to work well enough and doesn’t ride much different to stock although that is in a VR SS.

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

LOL, yep, when you window the block the puke can is redundant but for that they run engine nappies.  If you watch drag racing though they will burn a piston or something similar without actually destroying the engine.  They simply change the cylinder sleeve(s) before fitting 8 new pistons and doing it all over again.  Quiet amazing to watch really.

 

Yeah, for legal reason an enclosed system is a must but most people just vent to atmo….  I think mightymouse catch cans have a valve so they automatically vent to atmo if pressure builds in the can.  For a street driven daily driver type car a sealed system is still best for overall engine/oil health.

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

Anonymous wrote:

2 days

 

Your shed/ hoist do make life so much easier.  I’m sure must of us are rather jealous….

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

VRSenator065 wrote:

I remember a design guru I worked for, (he literally was a hyraulics genius) once told me the hardest few seconds of an O rings life was when its being installed, so easy for that to happen, and no way of knowing.

 

Everything goes better with a little lube ….

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

We change the oil and filter (and maybe a set of plugs), IJ removes engine/trans, rebuilds trans and refits in car…..

• This reply was modified 6 years, 2 months ago by  Immortality.

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