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  • #12205
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    I don’t think checking idle voltage is a true test of the system.  Alternator won’t output full voltage/amps until it reaches about 1600-1800rpm (depending on pulley ratios).

    Really need to do a load test.  The best way is to spec the cable by it’s current rating.

    In my old VH I used 35mm² welding flex cable, very similar to 2ga cable for the Starter -> Battery -> Alternator.  I got the stuff cheap and it’s very well insulated.  Anything over a standard 55amp alternator I would use a minimum of 4ga cable (good for 110amps).

     

    • This reply was modified 8 years, 11 months ago by Profile photo of Immortality Immortality.
    • This reply was modified 8 years, 11 months ago by Profile photo of Immortality Immortality.
    #12201
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    Yes.  Did you upgrade the cable size from what was originally used as the charge cable from the alternator to battery?  The original alternator was probably an 85amp unit and the charge cable is really only designed to handle that load.  Running a larger alternator at higher loads  could very well see voltage drops across the cable as it gets to hot.

    #11954
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    That is stupid HP/TQ for the money really :D There were a couple of VF HSV GTS’s (bloody overweight barge) running mid 12’s at the recent Fathers Day drags here in NZ, in a relatively light body like the VR it should be a right weapon set up properly like you will no doubt

    a guy on another forum is running 10.5 in his VFGTS. With very minimal mods boosted 1 7/8 header Stock auto and stock + diff gears stock cat back larger pwr w2A e85

    They were both running on standard street tyres, trouble getting em out of the hole.

    #11924
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    That is stupid HP/TQ for the money really :D

    There were a couple of VF HSV GTS’s (bloody overweight barge) running mid 12’s at the recent Fathers Day drags here in NZ, in a relatively light body like the VR it should be a right weapon set up properly like you will no doubt  :good:

    #11908
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    I think it improved steering response when I fitted one on my old VN, turn in was better.  Could also notice a difference when jacking the car up, things didn’t flex as much.  If you disconnected one side and jacked it up the strut towers would move apart a little and you couldn’t get the bolt back in.

    #11565
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    and then scratch their heads when a cam only VE runs a high 11

    I recon a high 11 in a 2 ton cam only VE is pretty good. Trouble is these days with so many guys running 9s and 10s the regular joe thinks running a 10 is easy which it isnt. Not only does the guy running the high 11 in his cam only VE scratch his head, he usually mutters “it would have run better but I just couldn’t get traction”. I mean as if the guys running 9s and 10s don’t have problems with traction…

     

    You’d be surprised.  My mate running high 13’s was struggling for traction, his issue is tyres.  Street tyres just won’t take the same hit as drag slicks or even a dot rated drag radial.  He had to drive it off the line and prevent wheel spin because a street type tyre will just light up where as a proper drag radial will still accelerate a car even with wheel slip.

    The other issue would be suspension, car’s running 9’s and 10’s are set up much better to make use of all that power.

    For comparison, there were a couple of HSV VF GTS’s   running mid 12’s at the same time.

    #11256
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    My theory is that as long as there is some coolant in the system and no airlock in the bottom hose it (the water pump) will continue to suck coolant from the radiator and force it into the engine so it (the engine) won’t show a major temperature fluctuation until all the coolant is lost in which case by the time you notice it will probably to late anyway. In reality, how often do you notice a change in engine temperature? How often do you check the gauge whilst you drive? If you want a 100% fool proof method you really need to set up a bright warning light that illuminates at a set temp. A much better option would be a low coolant sensor but Holden’s have never had such a thing unfortunately.

    i notice the change all the time. Something I always checked up on. I could actaully notice the difference between 160-190F on the factory gauge also. It a personal thing on what u would like. TBH if you have an autometer gauge which is already giving you an ACCURATE reading, I wouldn’t bother with the factory dash.

     

    VN-VS temp gauge I notice a difference in temps from thermostat open temp (82°C) and thermo fan on  temps (94°C, my settings) and see the gauge move as the thermo fan pulls the engine temps down.  However on the VX the gauge rarely moves once up to temp?

    I do check the gauge at certain times and more so when I’m expecting to see temps rise but I doubt I would see it move if it happened between checking things.

    I actually disagree with the modern driver training where you are taught to check the dash and mirrors every couple of seconds, to much time spent with you’re eyes off the road instead of watching what is ahead off you and oncoming traffic etc.  People are too distracted these days.

    #11244
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    My theory is that as long as there is some coolant in the system and no airlock in the bottom hose it (the water pump) will continue to suck coolant from the radiator and force it into the engine so it (the engine) won’t show a major temperature fluctuation until all the coolant is lost in which case by the time you notice it will probably to late anyway.

    In reality, how often do you notice a change in engine temperature?  How often do you check the gauge whilst you drive?  If you want a 100% fool proof method you really need to set up a bright warning light that illuminates at a set temp.

    A much better option would be a low coolant sensor but Holden’s have never had such a thing unfortunately.

    #11237
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    Yea agreed, whats the old saying, “an oil pressure gauge tells you when the engine is about to blow up, a temperature gauge tells you when it already has….” Actually I reckon that could be a really neat solution. I could then just extend and run the wire down in the original loom on the side of the bay and down the side of the radiator to it. Cheers for that, I reckon that’s a plan

     

    I think that about covers it, I’ve just about dumped all the coolant in the Senator and the dash gauge didn’t move, fortunately I had stopped to check something completely different and noticed it was hot when I lifted the bonnet.  Engine did make a horrible ticking noise from around one of the rear cylinder for a bit but nothing blew up.

     

    I think having the temp sender in the bottom hose is going to delay the noticeable change in coolant temperature even longer than the standard location.  Ideally it needs to be a close as possible to the thermostat where the highest temps are normally seen.

    #11132
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    Definitely require pics :)

    How do you intend to reinforce the original shock mount to take the full weight with the coil-overs fitted?

    #10992
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    Rather then just us all throwing numbers out there for what ever injector size we think it it needs the OP is better off going to one of the many online fuel injector calculators which will tell you what you will need with a lot more accuracy.  All you really need to know is the expected power output, and the fuel pressure you will be running which really depends on the injector type/brand you intend to use although most injectors are tested/rated @ either 3 bar or 3.5 bar.  The rest of the info will be on the website.

    This is one I like to use https://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

    • This reply was modified 9 years ago by Profile photo of Immortality Immortality.
    #10522
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    Nice, you plan on staying with the GRP A manifold?  They really are a decent manifold considering when they were designed/made.

    #10236
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    I actually think coolers are getting mandatory for steering systems, bigger and wider wheels put much more load on the steering (and suspension) systems.  Even Holden started fitting very rudimentary coolers into later model cars.

    I used the tube/fin type because it was cheap and It’s not like I’m trying to remove a huge amount of heat.  PS fluid was only ever warm even after been driven hard.

    #10219
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    This is on my old VN

    #10206
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    I use a small external trans cooler for the power steering.

    #10205
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    Sounds good indeed, but only 50psi oil pressure at 7500rpm?

    #9957
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    You forgot the red head!

    #9920
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    That’s definitely interesting.  I’ll take a manual box any day of the week :)

    #9726
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    #9684
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    Damn double post :)

Viewing 20 posts - 481 through 500 (of 526 total)