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  • #16258
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    It’s not something I’d try without a lot of research first, I to struggle with some of those plugs/leads, hence the thought to re-do some of those hard lines to move em further out of the way.

    The basic VT-VY ABS system is a 3 channel system like the earlier VS, the flashier VT-VY system with traction control is a 4 channel system.  Been doing a little research but I think I need to find a brake specialist to get more advice.

     

    #16255
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    Looking good, I’m using it as my inspiration :-)

    One thing that has always bothered me about the VS bay is the giant ABS module and the brake hard lines which makes it harder to change those spark plugs.  I was intending to replace my hard lines between the master cylinder and ABS module so they sit more towards the guard like they do on the later model commodores and then I got thinking, would it be possible to use a later model ABS unit which is much smaller?  That would be cool.

    #16242
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    That’s an interesting  rear sway mounting location?
    #16235
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    Lifter bores are only taller (as far as I know) to suit the roller lifters.

    What I’m not sure about is transferring a used flat tappet cam and lifters from one block to another as no 2 blocks are identical so the cam lobe to lifter position may be a bit different and I’m not sure how that will work from a wear perspective.

    Others may have wiser words here.

    #16232
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    Will it fit yes, the major difference on the VT roller blocks were the raised lifter bores and some extra webbing.

    Is that cam new or used?

    Head bolts should be the same, fairly sure 308 had the 12 bolts but the 2 extra bolts were dropped in the late 80’s definitely not used in the 304 injected engines.

    #15517
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    In that case I’d be looking at the ignition module or possibly the dizzy.  May as well try the module first as it’s the easier of the 2 to check.

    How old are the dizzy cap/rotor/leads and coil?

    • This reply was modified 8 years, 7 months ago by Profile photo of Immortality Immortality.
    #15508
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    What size battery?

    Have you checked battery voltage drop when cranking hot compared to cold?

    Have you also checked the earth connections on the block as well as the starter cable connection.

    Try another starter relay.

    #15506
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    How old is the battery, is the alternator charging properly?

    Make sure all the cable connects are clean and tight.

    #15430
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    I know, I was quiet shocked the first time I saw it too.

    I think the stop/start stuff is the real killer.  When there is airflow through the bay it’s not horrendous but stop and heat soak does it’s thing.  It takes a lot of cold air to suck that much heat out of such a large alloy chunk :(

    #15428
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    That’s probably not a fair representation, the factory tune charge temp takes into consideration AIT and ECT to calculate the charge temp.  It’s fairly involved.

    The newer tune from the PCMhack forum has simplified it somewhat for the user :)

    #15425
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    The factory tunes are fairly poor in that regard, the new stuff from the PCMhack forum however does have allowances for charge temp.

    #15422
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    This is why it pains me to put the banana’s back on my engine, that huge lump of alloy is one big heat sink and the air has such a long path to travel it gets plenty of time to heat it up.

    Logging at the track we’ve seen temps around 90°C at the worst sitting in the staging lanes,  comes down once you get it moving but it’s costing power big time.  When logging the AIT’s seem fairly tied to engine coolant temps with little airflow.

    Even just cruising to work in the early hours when ambient temps are in the low single digits I’ve seen AIT’s climbing to 50-60°C fairly quickly.

    #15415
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    I wish there was something we could do to turn down the temps in the banana oven more commonly known as the plenum :-(

    #15396
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    Here’s a question for our friendly mod, every time I click on the latest post button for this particular thread it always goes to the first post?  Only does it on this thread, other threads work just fine

    Delete this post if you want.

    #15337
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    I had a faulty electronic autometer gauge once, fortunately the supplier replaced it even though it came from the US including return shipping :-)

    These days I stick to mechanical gauges mostly.

    • This reply was modified 8 years, 8 months ago by Profile photo of Immortality Immortality.
    #15315
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    That sounds better  :good:

    #15314
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    Don’t worry, I’m sure you will find some re-usable metal in there somewhere  :unsure:

     

    Yep, the trick with asbestos is to stop the dust.  My house is covered in the stuff  :scratch:

     

    That burner above probably burns cleaner than a VW diesel…….. :whistle:

    #15289
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    Something I came across on another forum but thought you might appreciate :-)

     

    • This reply was modified 8 years, 8 months ago by Profile photo of Immortality Immortality.
    #15278
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    I had this happen doing a simple oil change, no pressure.  Removed and pack pump, no pressure.  Strip and clean pump, pack again, no pressure.

    Stripped whole engine, found nothing.  Rebuilt, new pump, new filter and it had pressure……

    I never did find anything wrong with the old pump (other than regular wear and tear for 120,000km’s)  so the only think left was the filter?

    #15264
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    got another question will the VS dash cluster oil pressure light go out once the engine has been turned over or once the engine is running?

    That depends on how long you turn it over and how quickly it fires.  Generally speaking , mine goes out after the engine starts but I know in the past when testing something and we didn’t have the ignition connected the engine oil light did go out after it had been turned over a few times on the starter.  If I’m not mistaken the pressure switch is only something like 4 or 5 psi so it doesn’t take a lot of pressure in the system to go out.

Viewing 20 posts - 421 through 440 (of 526 total)