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  • #19769
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    That should be fine, both will see 12 volts.

    #19764
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    More progress, got the wiring loom sorted this morning and started on the heater hoses which are going to make things interesting….  Need to organise some clamps to hold hoses and tidy up the wiring loom a bit better.

    Couple of small issues to iron out, the factory injector retaining clips (for the fuel rails) don’t fit so not sure what I’m gonna do there yet and need to figure out where the heater tap is going to fit.  I might relocate that toward the back of the engine somewhere so things are just a little tidier looking.  I don’t think it matters if I but it in the return line either.

     

    Maybe try a 1998 VS V8 Dipstick (ute or stateman) as mine was different to the early transmissions and VT 5.0lt are different again

    That might be worth a look.  Regardless of what I do I think it’s going to be a bit of a mess in that corner with the dip stick tube and fuel line fittings all tucked in next to the brake booster :-(

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    #19752
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    Yep, all going well I’ll fire it up next week hopefully.

    Engine is stock ATM, looking at doing a head/cam swap sometime next year.  Then overhaul suspension, brakes, trans and diff to follow.

    Original plan was to have this as a nice cruiser but looks like I might race it with a bit of giggle gas until I can built something with the intent of going fast around a track.

    #19749
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    Yep, I much prefer cap screw type bolts.  Generally speaking I use em where ever possible.  Probably because 95% of what I use at work are cap screws…….

    As I go over the engine I’ll replace most of the standard bolts as I go.

     

    Eventually when it cops a few other upgrades I’ll use grade 12.9 cap screws for the heads etc as they are as good as the ARP8740 range of bolts but much cheaper from my local engineering shop :-)

    #19746
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    So finally making some real progress, put most the fittings in the manifold with some Loctite thread sealant and have managed to get it fitted to the engine.  New gaskets came with cork type gaskets for the valley but made it a PITA to fit the manifold so they got binned and I just used a nice bead of silicone instead.  It also turns out the manifold has had some porting work done, the runners are matched to suit the intake ports on the heads :yes:  Our old NZV8 class limited the Holden boys to VN heads with “as cast” ports…..  Not bad that a 304 with standard heads, a small solid cam (I believe around the 234° .050″ duration) and Harrop DP manifold made about 420hp on pump 98 with about 10.5CR.  Pic for posterity…..

     

     

    Pity you aren’t in Adelaide, would have brought the bender over and we could have done it pretty easy

     

    Cheers, appreciate the thought anyway :-)

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    #19745
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    Yeah the modern efi systems can cover a lot more stuff, especially the factory type PCM’s which need to be able to handle all facets of driving from cold start to overheated and everything in between without trouble.  That is where many of the aftermarket ECU’s fail as they are mainly aimed at the performance market and cold start/idle isn’t really important or something they care about as long as it makes good numbers at WOT.

    #19739
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    Tbh, what he has changed in the tune I don’t fully understand. I get AFR and timing, but when they start talking about open or closed loop and short of long tune etc I get a bit lost. All I know is its much better. I am actually going to design up a 3D print a gizmo that will attach to the throttle bar on the ITB’s with a thumb screw so we can adjust it to 2,000 rpm and it will stay there, then 3,000 etc, so on the dyno he can play around with it at a constant rpm From what I have seen anyone can tune for WOT, but mid range on a streeter is a different story…

     

    It’s fairly simple once you get your head around a few of the terms.

    Open loop – the pcm uses the data stored in the tables to sort the fuelling (normally during cold start and WOT).

    Closed loop – the PCM used the O2 sensors in the exhaust to adjust the fuelling to achieve the stoichiometric AFR ratio (14.7:1).

     

    Short and long fuel trim(s) term refers to the adjustments the PCM is making in closed loop mode.  Short term fuel trim adjustments are the actual adjustments the PCM is making at the time, long term fuel trim numbers are what is stored going back over a much longer term.  IF the tune is good than the long term and short term numbers will be fairly small as the tune is close to been spot on and it is making adjustments to suit local weather conditions (such as temp and barometric conditions etc)only.  If the tune is off then the PCM will make small adjustments at a time until it achieves it’s AFR targets but this can take some time and there are also limits to how far it can adjust things.

     

    Getting a tune spot on in the cruise areas can take a fair bit of time and is best done by logging the car when it’s been driven and then adjusting to suit.  Once all the tables are done, then the adjustments for cold start, throttle enrichment etc can be dialled in properly.  On a car like yours with a fairly unique setup this can be very time consuming where as your average run of the mill cammed/stroked LS1/2/3 etc the factory tables are fairly good once the base tables have been sorted.

    #19716
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    LOL, she knows about the disease……

    #19709
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    Interesting……

     

    Have you contacted B&M about this issue?

    #19643
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    Your the 2nd person to recommend that.  Will investigate that option later this week when I’ve finished my shifts at work.

    #19603
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    The original plan was to mount the FPR of the back of the fuel rail but the pressure gauge will foul on the trans dip stick tube so that will need a re-think.  Going to need new heater hoses as the originals aren’t going to sit right either but I was kinda expecting that.  No other major issues at this stage but I’m sure something will creep up.

     

    The 2 small lines are the coolant bleed/bypass hoses. They allow a small amount of coolant to flow from the rear of the head which is normally a bit of a dead spot in the cooling system which causes the rear cylinder on the drivers side bank to run hot and the spot they tend to blow head gaskets as a result.

    #19576
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    So this is how she sits today.

    The original plan was to have the FPR mounted on the back of the fuel rail but it’s going to foul on the trans dip stick tube :-( so that is going to require some thought.

     

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    #19570
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    Nice, very tidy  :good:

    #19528
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    Right, I think I’ve got everything done that needs doing (drilling/tapping etc).

    Now I’m gonna strip it down and take it to work and give it a good clean/wash to make sure all the swarf/crap is gone and then it’ll be ready for bolting onto the engine.

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    #19509
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    The’re 1.75″ or 44.45mm, same as the Edelbrock 1000cfm TB.

    The difference I think is that the Aeroflow TB has the butterfly shafts machined down, possibly has a lower profile and has larger radius into and coming out of the bores.  whether or not that equates to the extra flow I have no idea but it’s my best guess  :scratch:

    #19502
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    Good info indeed :-)

     

    Just doing some quick maths,  the stock TB (65mm) has a surface area roughly 3318mm², a 70mm TB is approx 3848mm² (ignoring the butterfly shaft).

    Each pair of the 1375cfm TB is 3103mm² so slightly less than the 65mm TB.  So testing with the primary only is probably a good start.  This TB has the butterflies opening inwards which is supposed to improve air distribution?

    Interestingly, I’m planning on running the same cam as an associate but that engine is still running the banana’s manifold and 70mm TB and the intake is starting to pull a vacuum at high rpm WOT indicating the intake is restricting it.

    • This reply was modified 8 years, 2 months ago by Profile photo of Immortality Immortality. Reason: add
    #19495
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    Ordered more hose and fitting to do the coolant bypass and booster vacuum lines.

    Never planned on any of this, things always get out of control when it comes to cars and modifying stuff…….

     

    Going to hold off on coating the manifold as I’m contemplating getting another set of heads to give a quick port and mill the crap out of to get the CR up to make the cam viable that I’m intending to throw in at a later stage.

    No rush at this stage as the job change has been put off (unfortunately).

    #19494
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    The injectors are supposed to aim down the port at the back of the valve, if (part of) the spray pattern is hitting on something then it will effect it.  Hard to see in the pic as it’s taken at an angle.

    #19491
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    Those heads do look like a high port design causing the big gap. Maybe as COME about that.  I know YT supply a extra bar to fit in that gap with there high port heads.

    Have you checked the injector boss alignment with intake gaskets fitted?

    How do the intake ports look when you put a intake gasket on?

    #19480
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    Good question…. Don’t know but I’m sure the plugs will tell all.

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