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  • #25338
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Mine took about 5 months from CAE. Plus the starter cable was on the normal side, not for the left side starter relocation. I called them about it an they said “just pull the cables out of the loom and re-route them down the left side”. Super professional.

    Good to see some progress though Cava  :good:

    #25331
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    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Found a workshop manual online for VKs, saving it here so I can get it printed at work tomorrow lol

    http://www.workshopservicemanual.com/84-Holden-VK-Commodore-Full-Workshop-Manual.pdf

    #25330
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    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    I’ve found an intact fuse box and rail in good condition plus a full body harness for 200 bucks, picking it up this sat. Been thinking about the wiring for a while now and I don’t have the coin to throw at it at the moment so I hoping this might get things happening.

    havent done much else on it lately, been tied up with family stuff, this time of year is always like that though.

    Ive been binge watching Roadkill and Finnegans Garage on YouTube, great shows, definitely recommend them, they’re good to kick back at night with a few frothy coffees and chill out when the family has gone to bed  :good:

    #25329
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    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Just to add to this thread, I’m looking at this for mine, it’s the speed sensor with a connection on the end to connect a speedo cable to:

    https://www.kam.com.au/pass-through-pulse-generator.html?category_id=218

    Im hoping it lets me use the factory speedo. Spoke to CAE and the basically just said I’d need their cable x box or they can modify my dash and replace the mechanical speedo parts with an electrical setup. Still looks the same but won’t need the cable. Not overly impressed with their response though

    #24937
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    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Frazer – dont you need an electronic speed sensor on the gearbox so the ECU has a vehicle speed input? That’s what I’ve been told, and also why I need either a digital speedo or one of the x box.

    Does anyone know if the ECU needs the vehicle speed? would be a lot easier if I could just run with the normal cable setup.

    #24931
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    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    There’s arguments about the weight of the cars as well, some will say it’s based on your exact vehicle model (in my case a VK SL), others say to use the heaviest vehicle variation in your model (in my case probably a Calais) to determine engine sizes. The last set of rego papers for my VK show the weight as 1250kgs so i just scrape in with the LS3.

    That seems light when I had my vk I had that corner weighted and was 1430 without me in it full, electrics and v8 ??

    According to Google and a few of the links found, VK’s weigh between 1220 and 1366kgs. the SL has bugger all electronics and stuff in it so it’s pretty light. An LS3 weighs around 50kgs lighter than a 308 as well.

    #24930
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    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
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    I have a similar issue, my conversion kit came with a dakota digital speed sensor to the ECU has the vehicle speed but that means I cant connect the speedo cable. Spoke to CAE about it and they said I’d need to buy the x box for about 600 bucks. Been thinking about getting one of the Racepak IQ3 street dash setups instead to replace the factory dash, they look all fancy and shit lol

    #24899
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    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
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    There’s arguments about the weight of the cars as well, some will say it’s based on your exact vehicle model (in my case a VK SL), others say to use the heaviest vehicle variation in your model (in my case probably a Calais) to determine engine sizes. The last set of rego papers for my VK show the weight as 1250kgs so i just scrape in with the LS3.

    #24895
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    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    It says “recommended”, some engineers take it as gospel and some will go beyond those numbers as long as the whole car is built properly. It’ll depend who you talk to

    #24850
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    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Yeah i like those Racepak dash setups. Throw up a thread on your car, gotta get the first gen commodore numbers up haha

    #24848
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    Heron SSV
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    I thought the same thing about the wiring Cava, all thats really left seeing as I have a new engine loom is the dash, headlights, tail lights, blinkers, wiper/washer, heater, but there’s just so much wiring, and it’s really the first thing so far I’ve been hesitant about doing myself. I have a bit of time to figure out what I’m going to do (that means no money haha), so I’ll crack on with the fuel tank, brake lines and booster/master cylinder, bodywork, bonnet and bumpers.

    Frazer – I think I’d be in the same boat if I tried to get another loom, I wouldn’t really know if I’d be getting the right bits and pieces. I’d hate to get the car up to the point where it’s ready to drive and spend heaps of time chasing electrical gremlins. That would take the fun out of the car pretty quickly

    #24839
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    Heron SSV
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    Posts: 585

    Yeah it includes connecting the engine harness, hiding all wiring up under the dash and through the engine bay, so there’s a fair bit involved. Called a couple of other shops, one said anywhere from 1 to 6k without having a look, and i’m waiting on a call back from another.

    His workshop is a 5 minute drive from my house so that’s a bonus.

    #24837
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    Heron SSV
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    the car is an SL. Got the engine harness from CAE so that side is good, it;s just the rest of the body harness thats shithouse

    #24835
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    Heron SSV
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    Still weighing up my options. If the harness was complete and in good condition it wouldnt be a drama, but the fuse rail was cactus when i got it, and some parts of the harness look like it’s been modified and I can’t figure out why as all the mechanical stuff was stripped out before i got it

    #24833
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    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
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    Sparky came round, quoted 4.5k to rewire the whole car front to back using all new wiring, fuses, relays, connectors etc. as well as hiding most of the wiring. Said it’s about 1k in parts and the rest is labour, and takes around 40 hours to do.

    anyone had any similar work done so i can compare the price?

    stupid cars lol

    #24821
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    Heron SSV
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    I’ve been playing around with the wiring over the last couple of weeks. Got the new harness into position with most of the sensors connected. CAE have run the starter cabling down the drives side of the harness instead of the passenger side which i’m not impressed with, especially after i called them about it and they just said to pull the wiring out of the conduit and run it down the passenger side :grr:

    The factory harness is all over the shop and I have no fking idea what’s needed and what isn’t. I’ve got a sparky coming round tonight to have a look and see what it’ll cost to have a pro fix it up. I love having a crack myself but have simply no idea when it comes to wiring, and all it takes is one dodgy connection or earth and the car will run like crap, if it runs at all, so I’d rather leave that part of the build to a professional.

    #24819
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    Heron SSV
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    So far, the big items have cost around the $18K mark (motor 8k, gearbox and converter 5k, conversion stuff 5k). I splurged on those when i had the cash as they’re the most expensive things to outlay cash on. the stuff i need now is relatively cheap (only hundreds, not thousands haha) and i can slowly chip away at it as time progresses without breaking the bank (and pissing of the wife). Depends how handy you are with tools as well, I’ve had a crack at everything i could to save paying someone else to do it.

    It’s hard to stick to a budget, you pretty much will blow it out, but as long as you’re realistic when initially planning it out it shouldnt be too bad.

    #24802
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    Heron SSV
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    I’m in the middle of a similar build, LS3/TH400 into a VK. I picked up an LS3 out of a 2016 Redline with 39,000kms on it for $8k earlier this year. Came with the harness, ECU and pedal as I’m sticking with the FBW throttle. Brand new crate motors were around the same price but didnt include the accessories, harness or ECU. Prices for LS3’s will come down as more and more find their way into wreckers, just like LS1’s. I’d go a 6L at minimum as they respond so much better to mods than the LS1, but it ultimately comes down to your budget. I’m up to around $22k at the moment, and need another $4-5k to get it on the road. I’ve bought all the major stuff, not it’s the little bits and pieces I need to get, and am buying stuff as I go to try and avoid wasting cash.

    • This reply was modified 7 years, 1 month ago by Profile photo of Heron SSV Heron SSV.
    #24681
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    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    That VT was on eBay earlier this year for just over 20k

    #24555
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    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
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    I got my loom from CAE. They supply a brand new loom that integrates into the factory wiring harness so the dash works as normal. It arrived this week, all the wiring is labelled and it has detailed instructions. Also has a fuse rail with fuses and relays for the ignition, fuel pump etc. Wasnt cheap, but nothing is on cars these days.

    I’ve put an LS3 and TH400 into a VK.

Viewing 20 posts - 341 through 360 (of 576 total)