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Funny how we’ll spend ages on getting wiring right due to OCD despite nobody else would even notice.
Looks heaps neater more importantly workable.Nice!
Spent 4 hours under dash of this b*tch removing old alarm wiring,power mirrors & power window + other crap.
*Would kick bloke in the nuts with steel cap boot for breaking dash & adding miles of wiring + relays…yet none of it worked.
Is that 28 spline long axle narrowed down/resplined vn axle?
Curious how they hold up ok as got set done for vl diff.
That bay looks nice & shiny.Well done dude!
Pity the 15 inch turbo/vn-spac hubcaps either expensive for these & too hard to find
How did you go with the diff dude? Got any measurements?
Was hoping you’d do an indepth on engine bays so I can learn more lol.
No rush mate,just good to have it home & able to pull it apart in order to fix things properly.
Luckily did not get rid I much didn’t need between sle & ghetto vk although still fair few things I’d like to change.Mostly the things people throw away like 6cyl springs & early manual rack.
Loving the clean backyard,no mess,no cars or parts in sight whatsoever…gave away or sold most stuff dirt dirt cheap.
Cold weather + rain slowed me down heaps this week anyway.
Worst part of the car is engine bay…currently got half the dash ripped apart fixing electrical gremlins & broken interior trim.
Wont take car off road so doing it all but by bit.
Long list planned for the engine bay but eventually…
convert to manual steering or electric p/steer
hide an overflow bottle behind grille
washer bottle hidden next to wiper motor
neaten up wiring & hide trans lines & brake lines + fuel lines
trip to Chubby for strut tops,alternator bracket & w/motor cover
then fill in all holes & repaint…would like carby/9×5 aircleaner skyhigh out bonnet but probably cover with pro-stock scoop to keep plod happy.
* Panelshop said sort car out…run a 10 & DONT HIT F*@KING WALL then they’ll paint it.
Main selling point it’s actually engineered for tubs & genuine indigo blue/mercury silver 381 pack.
Yeah bit hard to go un-noticed driving it around…get some priceless reactions sitting in traffic.
Nothing wrong with minitubs.Not necessary BUT does ensure you’ll fit rims/tyres you want & have sitting the way it’s meant to.
Particularly if you want it to still look factory is split tub down middle,cut the inside tub out then trim shell down to chassis rail for extra 1-2 inch clearance.
Trimming metal down & prep friggin’ crazy amount of hours required to keep factory look though.
Refit factory inner tub with 1-2 inch strip.Neatest looking way to do it & majority of people wouldn’t know unless they owned similar car.
Mind you can achieve same result with some strategic sledgie action + few other tricks…car may sit touch higher than you want though.
Bonus is fraction of the labour time required…
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This reply was modified 8 years, 5 months ago by
gtrboyy.
8.5″ rim 255/60 tyre?
Usually hear around 1300mm for diff although never sure if BUF or axle flange face of housing.End up with drum brakes.
While others say 50mm of each just enough to keep rear discs.
Standard wheel tubs
Ofcourse usual grind down seat bolt,lower control arm mods & some sledgie action to wheel tub,rear part is easy thin metal front is reinforced part harder to bash.
Then it’s either tap flat shock cover or snip it off..also be wary tyre clearance to bumper bar.
Got my vh sle to redo & vk executive thinking about doing but look all factory.
Thinking not only roll wheel lip but that hump just above inside arch could do with some dolly work also to help not only lower but also get slightly tucked tyre look…otherwise car will sit higher than you like it.
Got a tubbed sle that sits tad too low(305/50/15),wheel lip not rolled full arch…sidewall caught & ripped it…not happy jan!
Curious if that’d be restrictive with volume of air your engine would swallow?
I think if you boxed in that whole area like bottom of spoiler then from wheel liner all way across to chassis rail to make it like one large volumed airbox.
Less road heat & debris issue.
Impressive skills & car dude.
Yeah remember need a weird backspace like 6 inch or so with 15×7 rim can fit 235/60/15 slick…ride height dependant.
With salisbury get bit more leeway as it’s tad narrower over b/w diff.
By right welds etc are chev/hq stud pattern although I think newer model wheels cater to commodore stud pattern from some larte model U.S cars,most likely a larger sizes over 15 inch rims.
Have a squiz on calaisturbo site or even streetcommodores archive,should be info buried in there somewhere.
Hey mate,nice build.
Rear retractables can get from vk-vl models easiest to find.
Bashplate for fuel tank I’ve seen on statesmans & calais.
Not sure what you mean by exhaust but another alternative is cheapie single vl cat back exhaust off ebay (tuffcarparts were doing a sale) or even 2nd hand one & get front half to suit.
Or simply get yours remade the way you want it
With manuals love that twin 3 inch angry sound particularly with engine mods but on auto 2.5 inch is way to go…all depends on sound you want.
Sounds like nothing major to pass anyway,car is done nicely.
Follow off fuse box…melted part usually lights.
I think should be 3 plugs off fuse box into engine bay..been ages since did mine could be wrong.
1 Main power from battery to starter
2 Power through harness to accessories etc
3 Engine harness
Ones with thickest earths usually plug with main power wires,most likely trace it all as common for these to melt wiring & patched up with any colour wiring or bypassed altogether.
Other trick plastic fuse cover has fuse number diagram to tell you..helps trace most of it lol.
It’s worth how much??? But,but it doesn’t even drive….and it’s old!
Does the car really have to be that loud it shakes house windows
Looks good with vt style covers..will be interesting to see.
Immortality…agree but will always be limitations of banana manifold on a holden but somehow partial to the damn things too.
Hard to deny why so many buy simmons for their cars…so common BUT very few wheels look so good on them!
Car is coming out nicely.
Ah so you’re the bloke that bought the vt clubby with that driveline…looked like it had fair bit of coin spent on it & been for sale for awhile…even some on it’s build on perfermanceforums years ago
Was different setup to most cars being built.
Had eye on it as price was going down too busy to go look at it..also had eye on that twin throttle body yellow vn was in vic,then qld ended up in darwin….waited too long,wanted driveline for lc torana.
There was supposed to be a plastic banana manifold come onto the market last year..saw tiny ad for it & mobile number for it it SC mag from some V6 mob cant remember who…sent them message no reply.
Id be content with plastic banana if it cut heatsoak & for the weight saving.
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This reply was modified 8 years, 5 months ago by
