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blue/black engines are better starting point for budget builds.
Efi 202 has most torque of all standard engines so they feel quickest hence the urban myths.But yeah they make carby 202 feel sluggish.
The cranks have better harmonics,slightly stronger rods but main thing is standard blue/black head works better for mild engine rather than spending coin on red head.
That being said if going all-out n/a dudes will get heavily port red head as they work can be opened up more to use with blue crank/rods or even heavier & stronger starfire rods…for street I’d just go lightest rods + stronger bolts.
I had red 202,40/80 solid,triple webbers etc
Stock rods are fine imho…main issue was flywheel coming loose buzzing it over 7k then extra torque ate m20 or would spit out banjo diffs.
Despite all the breakages learnt a lot from it & had most fun especially considering I’m injected 5l tragic lol
If you can chase down 2nd hand parts & do labour yourself you’d be surprised what can be done cheaply.
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This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by
gtrboyy.
Get on gmh-torana site or oldholdens they still have a few 202 diehards left,tons of info & advice whatever the budget.
Or uber budget 202 red,161 hc head then buy all 2nd hand manifold/390 holley,etc
efi 202 can take a bigger cam,think similar to xu1 spec yet still run standard ecu..not ideal but ok.
pcmhacking has awsome info how to convert to delco using complete vn v6 setup or easier camira/pulsar delco & tune it yourself.
Something in sump,metal tab or sump base gets hit by blue motor crank …hammer work fixes it.
Lots of info there with those 3 sites to keep him busy for ages…best part more labour & parts chasing than $$$$
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This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by
Depends how far you want to go & budget.
That being said grabbing a blue 202 in good condition with electronic dissy,varajet carby would be a big step up over red 161 straight away.
Efi 202 are good fun even in standard form do decent skids
All it needs is sump mod to stop crank hitting pan,ign switch 12v mod for electronic dissy & extra wire for eleccy choke…change diff gears will go even better.
3 speed will last same as m20 as long as not a vulture…dunno if plan to stay column shift or floor lol.
All those above can be done cheap as chip if chase parts & do all the labour.
Only downside is some blokes pour thousands in then later wish had gone v8 so best to work out what owner really wants.
Had triple webbered solid cam 202,m20,3.9 geared lc gtr…was crazy fun to drive just too wild for streeter ended up efi 5l/getrag.
oh yeah got bitten in the arse by this thing…frocken ford stud pattern(wtf)
Planned to fit my silver B45 simmons on it & take brock scoop off let aircleaner stick out….just for different look & boredom I guess.
Took rear wheel off…looks even bigger off the car!!!
Totally different stud patter so now got simmons & 2 sets of spare 14 & 15 inch steelie rims that wont bolt on haha
Got carried away inside the car lol.
No more heater box or air con parts whatsoever…just ac switch in console
Also did cool trick for heater pipe hole,kept the grommet,got 2 bonnet rubber stops ground them down & superglue them into the holes…looks like a delete option now.
All excess wiring gone…got dome light working,missing wiring for the rears.
Underdash ducting all gone,just 12v hairdryer/demister that works off factory heater control.
Big thing was passenger side had power window,now converted to manual winder.
Raised rear of car a tad,help clear tyres…rubber mallet to give fuel tank love taps for more clearance.
Got standard 6cyl struts off TufGmh to raise front,might get 90/10’s if it wont launch like a boss…
Also got blue window winder to finish off passenger doortrim,almost all factory sle interior except speakers in kickboard
Taken a bit of weight out of it(not enough lol) but mostly looks neater & fixing some cruddy wiring to make it more reliable.
Done heaps of other things cant remember right now.
Next up fill in holes behind rear seat..hopefully less f/pump noise..must stop pulling apart & drive it more!!!!
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This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by
vs onwards is maf even l67
7psi can probably just keep it vs ecu & even n/a engine…if it blows grab another.L67 rods/pistons & topend were only real diffence to n/a.
I only remember the early days with Dick’s Electronics several blokes with vt commo’s would go map sensor earlier vr ecu etc so they could be tuned properly also turn the boost up. But again those were the early days.
Assume vr & vs ran same auto..seems that way with v8’s.I never got into modding v6’s only 5 litres & a 202 lol
What’s the go with rear shockers???
Common for them to line up like that with mini-tubs but that still standard yeah?
Move the lower shock bracket or better just add another bracket next to factory one.
It is looking sweet!!!!
Should be good as though Gazzard boys know how to get leaf spung cars to hook up well.
‘just dont burn that snatch kev…’
-running on empty
Pretty sure that was done at Chubby’s even with big tank practically bottomed out.
Aeromotive intank????
Forgot brand they said when there.Think it was same as wpn383 was using…fockers tried to convince me go custom tank lol
I think it’s the ecu not memcal that you got confused…..auto are 3 plugs manual 2 plugs
Wire it up yourself,no that hard but beforehand hit up 2inl8 or delcowizzard for memcal/ecu advice then proceed…they’ll do a modded tune,vats,shiftpoins etc $160-180
One thing I’d query is if should go vr ecu with map sensor etc if boosts are planned.
These are just for thought.
Tuff made that manifold..dude got skills to do overkill breather system & make it look good.
Agree when engine is good/rebuilt not really needed & overkill.
After seeing allports(rip) build stroker 355 circuit & drag engines I liked theory of large catchcan helps relieve high windage volume you get with these….larger gap rings etc then add stroker crank swinging around in tight confines.
These were on many engines minimal ring leakdown & no oil leaks even after few years use.Most did get refreshed every year yet still insisted customers do it.
Other thing I like is catchcan should be highest point.
I’d go with a 9×5
Hate to follow BUT 9×5 just looks so right on early commo’s.
That being said mine has baby 9×2 k&n thing sticking out…looks subtle,pity it’s hidden by brock scoop to keep plod happy.
ps Want to see this big chasers on back with turbo hubcaps..sell a kidney!
Hey we got some stupid rules back…in past if engineered 454 torana ran out of rego it wasnt allowed back on the road.
Seems now monster engined or tubbed cars engineered in past can be re-registered.
Also turbo factory sized engines apparently….like early 5.0 commodores & toranas
Still comes down to luck on day of inspection then trip rta or whatever amalgamated thing they got in nsw now.
For yours I’d go 2 breather fittings in manifold valley with baffle plates underneath…catchcan in plenum.
Then seal smooth where old breathers were…maybe add small drainback pipes near bottom of rocker cover to sump.
Would look cool on this.
Other way is on top of rocker cover,not look as neat but should work better than from front although barely pump much oil unless blowby issue.
My shitter seems to have more moisture/water in it than oil whenever crack drain bolt of 5ltr catchcan.
Cars over 30 years old..must be member of club 12 months & car relatively standard,’some’ period mods allowed was last I read for NSW.
We also got ‘street machine’ rego trial.At moment it’s really club rego cars with 60 drive days.
Unfortunately not allowing ‘modified’ cars or even engineered cars to do it yet despite it being the original intention & way behind start date.
Fingers crossed it eventuates…moreso something the same between states!!!!!
That looks normal for nolathane…they even disintegrate on cars that don’t get driven.
What happens when find a street with speed-bumps or worse…..get stuck at maccas bro’
Bung some nulon oil stop leak…well known engine builder said try it on a motor gain some more time before engine comes out.
Tried it & improved the leak heaps..also went thicker hpr30 instead of piss-thin 10/60 oil.
Now down to slow drip on extractors instead of smokescreen lol.
Yep sikaflex.
Replace foam or seal other holes while there,it’s common for them to leak water in boot when rains or wash car…think they had foam originally that falls apart over time.
Nice job dude!
Never even thought of trying that.
Might try it for vh plenum…just not sure if urban myth having washer bottle same level as wiper motor if one way valve stops water leaking out as turn corner.
17 inch front runners look cool with big brakes lol
Shave caliper if just minor clearance.
I had load bearing spacers machined up for my old torana(hubs with 330mm discs & grange rims)…never completely trusted it…same now with pro-stars bolted only onto wheelstuds.
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This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by
