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Check easy things to rule out first like engine mounts,trans mount,t/shaft uni & centre bearing then backlash of diff..all those can cause clunk.
After that start looking into auto…service can help if it hasnt been done in ages.
If it is inside the auto could be anything but hopefully a simple fix.
Got atco/afco on torana & qa1 on vh sle..spherical bearings are a bitch on torrie with low profile 18’s.
Tbh,next car build(vk commo) wont have coilovers…will split inner tub then moved over 1-1 1/2 inch to chassis rail top shock absorber mount also.Move bottom shock mount over.
Lower control arm will be tubular with spring mount..that way can still use factory springs/shocks
Still have to chop panhard bracket for tyre clearance & either angle bracket to clear rear 9 housing or get custom panhard rod
Can fit 20×10 with 275 tyre or 15×8 255/60(27″) or just scrape 275/60(28″)
Pro’s- still looks factory underneath,exhaust over diff.less custom parts & even keep factory tank.
With coilovers usually means exhaust under diff,fuel cell & more custom parts,welding & more fine tuning more money for the sonbeech
Salisbury with lsd still worth a bit of money to the right person so coin would help fund a 9 inch which can be built as far as the wallet stretches…then you can beat on car relentlessly as if Cav had borrowed it haha
Yep check/google so you know where all the screws are lessen chance of breaking dash plastics…it’s a mongrel gluing them back together 9 out of 10 times already broken by previous owners lol.
Also good time to tap them inner wheeltubs in in case want bigger 20×10’s to fit.
Guess I dont have to wonder when my car will be featured anymore if that mag is dead.
Car culture is very different now sadly not as much helpfull knowledge/peeps around let alone people building their own cars. Also feel dodgy operators & moronic politicians killed the car industry.
You can get obd plug in that has a display screen with speedo,temp,oil pressure,faults etc they into socket thing above brake pedal on commodore cost roughly $100
Dunno if obd or obd11 for vx/y.
Other good thing can get $50 gps speedo only display size of a phone stick on screen or in front of speedo.
(plan to get one if my speedo cant be corrected)
More common Heads Up Display but think they’d suck reflecking on windscreen.
Pay Joe (2inil8) for memcal mods that you want like diasble vats & correct shift changes if auto & your diff gears or whatever other mods got planned.
Joe is on aussiev8s & few other forums…probably here also,think he’s out west sydney or you hit up pcmhacking boys.
Simple.
If going to leave it places yeah gps tracking is a must.
No way I’d leave a decent oldie in car park or station they’re too easy to grab or tow away.
Rarely leave mine out of sight when it’s out anyway as they attract too much attention.Luckily got decent neighbours who keep an eye out even if temorarily parked on street although gets annoying people drive into street to take pics or ask them if cars are sale haha.
TUFGMH: That was early 2000’s…vn grp a that got stripped,think the car was just jinxed if you knew history of it.
Only car got stolen was worn out/scratched tahitian blue slx vh wagon outside the driveway when mother borrowed,luckily she forgot to refuel it so cops found it nearby…undamaged but all you needed was paddle pop stick or correctly worn key…rough ol’ thing it was.
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This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by
gtrboyy.
Yeah your base sits much nicer particularly middle seat are next to tub.
Think mine probably larger tubs as just fabric & thin foam is all that covers the tub.
Wanted to try 325/50 untill looked at prices omfg
That’s quite nice.Might have to try it.
Hidden kill switch as long as not obvious same with hidden alarm/gps tracker for when got the car out.
Also want to make sure not easy for them to get at the car when home good fence,dogs,security & nosey neighbours etc.
It all helps…although one car of mine they couldnt start or move it so pr*cks stripped whatever they could in garage while I was away.Lost thousands in parts.
Back in the day you’d hear crazy stories of several cars moved to get one they wanted,flat towed away or put on tilt-tray or dogs poisoned.
Yeah vk brocks(?) & think vn hsv could get these security plates put in the doors covered inside linkages..usually ended up with totalled door skin.
Looks good I reckon hardlines always make a car look like owner has done a better job.
Like speed of build too!
Yeah thought so as mine is bit like that too with nose down stance.
Does your rear seat clip in nicely or more held in by headrest & seat base?
Just centre seat belt going back in?
Mine has the lower bolts for belts through the rear seat bolts with plates added,not comfy back there anyway as just thin foam & seat fabric over the tubs lol
Repaired or rewired tonnes of cars that had these when was an apprentice.
solex locks were a crock of shite they’re were easily bypassed with screwdriver through doorskin,even those security plates added inside the doors didn’t do much.
Full metal jacket can be passed just way more damage to car to get through or around it.
Rather have an immobiliser alarm hidden that’s hard to access + gps.Heaps of other things to do for better security
If it looks old just buy new cap & be done with it.
These need overflow bottle as it’s recovery type coolant system..
Last time mine was out on cool night was just on 1/4,assume that was where thermostat open/closed
With most cars just ‘cos it says gauge says 1/4 or 1/2 could mean anything & vary from car to car or model
Nice!!
Didn’t you like the 275/60 or was it sat car too high?
Interesting way to do it..looking at heaps of cars trying to decide how I want trans & fuel lines hidden.
Fuel lines to passenger side?
Trans line up bellhousing then through inner guard under boster to front of car? No room between steering/extractors?
Not much haha
Basic phillips & flat blade screwdriver,shifter,rag maybe few small tools that fit in centre console & mobile phone + towtruck business card in case bastard breaks down…
No spare wheels etc as 15×10 3″ backspace & tubs means most wheels dont fit.
Sounds fairly normal mine 1/4 driving also would creep up to 1/2 sitting in peak hour traffic on warm day.
There is block-off plate under front apron to radiator tiebar helps seal off that section.
Some people dont have water bypass hooked up when they should (hose from water pump to thermostat housing)
seized thermostat always good to check
cast round impellor instead of crap star shaped tin in water pumps helps stop cavitating.
clutch fan worn out or tired can be another…some leave off radiator shroud is big no-no.
Early commodores have really good cooling system particularly when in good shape.
Yeah never is simple.
Kind of like making things super neat then redo it all down track when work out a better way or hide completely lol.
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This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by
