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Reckon you should give it a go yourself…not hard just very time-consuming if want everything neat & hidden especially drilling holes & harness placement.
Vk wiring loom are messy & retarded compared to vb-h looms.
Fuse rail part that melts mostly to do with headlights could probably get away with unpinning it & using aftermarket fuesbox if wiring not melted or just trim them.
I’d like to know too for as it’s damn good idea….astra pump be better other option manual vl rack
Though of a few places like near wiper motor or for stealth front bar under headlight.
Joint you bought engine off probably know qc of the crate engines can be questionable…bloke at cars under stars down here pulled his 454R down still brand new found swarf inside,uneven deck heights etc…only did that ‘cos he wanted to gas it.
Heard build quality of crate engines not exactly the best but that is shithouse for coin they cost.
Those pipes will be fine as long as they butt up against chopped core pipes….in fact that’s how lot of people changed heater cores by cutting pipes & sliding old core out then hose & 2 clamps saving heaps of time rather than pull dash apart & rest of it
Crap spot & angle the the way those pipes come out from factory…worse when working on manual v6 shitboxen
Cool tricks,keep at it dude.
Sadly that’s part of the hobby we love having to navigate through con artists & shoddy work just to end up fixing it ourselves.
Makes it much harder to hand over the cash when finally do find good tradies.
Yeah know engine side of it can be done just not seen anyone fit that auto in smaller commo.
Trying to work out if it’s similar to manual cars that keep starter in factory position where they move rack over & custom extractors.
A lot of Elite Fabrication cars were done like that but all manuals.
Size difference from what I read is theyre tad longer but most of the extra girth is bottom half of auto…not a fan of 4l60/65 having blown 2 up & 4l80 too expensive & seems they’re driven manually.
Good thing you pulled it out for a look rather than leave it.
But yeah reckon most of it caused by tune first having it super rich glazing bores maybe even some extent washing the bearings too contaminating oil.
Heard of a few blokes popped headgaskets just to get their cars through epa/engineers.
Sucks bottom end couldn’t have gave got away with good hone & clean.
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This thing mini-tubbed?
Engine bay is looking good,keep at it.
Liking those lowe fab alternator bracket that hides it down on drivers side…bloke on torrie site did similar modding sss/atracing chev bracket $40(for long nose sbc w/pump I think)
That sucks as tp are easiest to get..read they’re not great for exhaust clearance.
Certain south africa & us cars had tthem…cant remember if they were 6cyl chev but 70’s cars so needle in haystack.
knead it works surprisingly well on exhaust pinholes…tried it out on vp ute with rusted out factory exhaust.
So tp turbo b/housing for trimatics wont fit ls? How come?
Early girl on a diet with ls/trimatic/borgwarner would haul ass down track…big fan of trimatics!!!
Rear arms like to bend at spring perch…although mainly happens at track with slicks whereas streeters like to unpick top mounts off chassis with spool diffs.
Heard of guys welding rods inside the arms while others put them in lipped part of arm.
Remember this with tunnel; rammed 308 I think.
Got measurements for diff/wheels/tyres?
I like to see how other blokes do their diffs/wheel combo
Ol trick with convertor is slot it in & keep spinning untill get the 3 clicks..by then it’s usually lightly rubbing on inside of bellhousing.
With a mate or two to help you + those adjustable levelling things you can use with engine hoists seems much easier these days.
Clearing vt booster & fitting extractors will always be a b@tch with early girls.
Fairly simple idea as it’s just thicker plate on top of bootfloor that has larger surface area for weight of tank to pull on for support.
Put your tan in with straps it will show you where to drill hole then just just high tensile bolt welded to plate as above.
You can just see spotwelds inside the red circle..that one in pic looks like has towbar supports,
Can’t see a pic but guessing you mean stud passenger side tank strap bolts to?
If so replacement floors have like a indented square near where boot floor meets inner beaver panel..you drill out original plate with with stud & weld that to indented piece after drill hole for stud.
Replacement floors easy to spot as usually don’t have holes for rubber grommets.
Agree we do mods for performance but doesn’t hurt to neaten up the engine bay while we’re there…hate ugly messy engine bays which caused a mini-rebuild grr
I spend heaps more time tinkering on cars than driving them so do like to make them neat as possible but do draw the line at buying shit just for looks.
That being said when roller door goes up to see back-end of a tubbed sle I still
He smash the tyres of the back of it yet????????? lol
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This reply was modified 7 years, 6 months ago by
gtrboyy.
Yeah seppo’s have dyno sheets proving it but who cares when can keep the stock bonnet & heaps of other ways to get power back & then some.
Told Dale @ CHE only buying an lsa if we find Caddy top….instead found my 2 tone sle
Gary these caddy tops make them even uglier lol
Don’t forget it’s got the very much wanted power killer Caddy top
Looked at buying lsa very closely when CHE did the black vh that needed chassis spacers & caddy top to keep it all under stock bonnet.
Damn Caddy tops
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This reply was modified 7 years, 6 months ago by
