CommodoresPlus

Should of got the normal LS Next block, it can mount starter on either side.

1 of many stupid laws that should be abolished.

I only asked because if it maybe is on the cards than a more optimal gear set like 4.11 could be used.

I will say though as the car sits now + the 700hp goal, you’d still have sand bag it if you wanted to make a few runs.

Have you thought about bolting a Gear Vendors unit behind the glide at any stage?

Yeah they’re not a 100%, but they give you a pretty fair idea. I use the calculators on wallaceracing.com, very helpful.

With the 3.55 gears and a 275/50 15 (26.4in) it’ll cross the line somewhere around 6100rpm and for very inch in diameter more it’ll drop 200rpm.

How much hp are you hoping to make and what does the car weigh (in pounds). Should be able to roughly calculate mph and from that can work out the best tyre diameter/rear gear combo.

255/60 like cava said, but you
<p style=”text-align: left;”>How much hp are you hoping to make and what does the car weigh (in pounds). Should be able to roughly calculate mph and from that can work out the best tyre diameter/rear gear combo.</p>

But “street car” only needs to go fast not look good 

We maybe spending your money now, but we’re saving you money later down the line.

No reverse cowl for this one.

You could even go one step further and have 2 extra bars in a cross going between there and the mid hoop on the cage. Problem is bye bye back seat and I’m pretty sure you don’t want to do that.

You’re thinking of traction bars for leaf springs Cava.

This article is a good read about stabilizer bars aka anti-roll bar aka swaybar.

http://www.dragzine.com/project-cars/project-biting-the-bullitt/understanding-drag-racing-rear-anti-roll-bars/

Factory Commodore disc brakes most likely wont clear the rail with how wide the overall brake assembly is. There are plenty of aftermarket kits out there to replace drum assembly that have a low overall profile.

This is the kit I’ll be using.

http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdRear.aspx?itemno=140-11402-D

I should point out that…[Read more]

Factory Commodore disc brakes most likely wont clear the rail with how wide the overall brake assembly is. There are plenty of aftermarket kits out there to replace drum assembly that have a low overall profile.

This is the kit I’ll be using.

http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdRear.aspx?itemno=140-11402-D

Have you thought about aftermarket disc brakes?

I’m just asking because I’ve got 15×10 with 4.5bs Welds that I’m fitting to my VS ute and I’ve found a wilwood kit that should fit with in that back space.

That deep dish life lol

Crankshaft Rebuilders/Auscrank are pretty much the only company (in Australia) that can make you a Holden crank to spec. Sadly my builder and I have had much luck with them, but they are supposed to be currently grinding up an crank for me.

PS I accidentally reported the post.

Should make life easier at the strip with manual 400. I’ll try putting up a thread next year when I start the chassis work or earlier if I get some engine progress pictures

It’s an actual kit for a Pro Ratchet.

http://www.shifnoid.com/products.html#air_shifters