Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
You’ve done well there mate, it’s a pretty tidy car even makes my ss look a bit rough and I thought it was pretty tidy lol, good to see another nice vr on here
<p style=”text-align: left;”>There’s some good info there about the old bananas, I’ve been thinking about trying my modified bananas and match ported heads in my vg when i finally get to do the engine swap, im hoping to twin turbo the old girl, didn’t think it would make anywhere near that kind of power even boosted, got me keen to give it a go now, saves spending money on another manifold when I already need a decent dual plane for the ss</p>
Yeah I know what you mean mate, I’m pretty sure you could set it up with tap up tap down functions aswell, but horses for courses everyone likes different things, I’ll personally be going full manualized reverse pattern in the ss for simplicity. At the end of the day the valvebody is just the controller so whether manualized or auto it’s really the other parts that are doing the work. So technically they could be built bombproof either way, but I think the full auto option could probably handle more power since the shifting would be smoother and obviously easier on the parts
I pm’d you cava, asked the question today but we’ve been flat out trying to get a few jobs rolled before we move shops, however he said he would be able to build something for you, just has to look into pricing.
As Ian said above the 4l80s are pretty much indestructible when built right even in full auto electronically controlled form, more fun and less extra crap when manualized, but I don’t think you can run the lockup converter without the tcm to control it
Yeah I don’t think there is too much emphasis put on fuel line modifications from what I’ve heard and seen, it’s funny though considering it could be one of the most dangerous parts of a car. I think<span style=”line-height: 1.5;”> it’s more of a common sense thing. As long as it’s secured and not leaking or put anywhere it shouldn’t be, I think you’re alright. </span><span style=”line-height: 1.5;”>We run 1/2″ rubber fuel hose from the front to rear on nearly all of our conversions admittedly it’s wrapped in taipan plastic hose wrap and well secured but it’s still just hose. M</span><span style=”line-height: 1.5;”>ost of the conversions we do are engineered and road registered,</span><span style=”line-height: 1.5;”> so I’m sure if you do a neat job with metal tube you’ll be fine.</span>
most of the conversions we do are engineered and road registered
I’m a fitter and turner but I’m working for a diesel conversion workshop as a mechanic and fabricator, it’s alot more interesting than working in factories and quarries lol. We mainly work on the duramax v8 diesel, in our own conversions and in the silverados and whatever else comes in, they mostly run allison 5 and 6 speed autos but for some of the custom cars mainly the off road stuff we build 4l80s for, I’m not sure what the boss would charge for that sort of box but I can ask the question for you, his brother has a very similar box behind a turbo lq9 in a d40 navara it was making 700-800rwhp but now he’s building a 6l iron block for it so it should be a bit more potent, he was running a 4l65 before but it pretty much ate that
That sounds like an experience having the dash facia flying out at you when you’re into it manta, the 4l80 is literally only 2-3″ longer and there’s no difference in width or height to the t400 except what looks like a box added onto the side at the rear which still shouldn’t be a problem to fit in a 2nd gen, we have a few at work and when I got my t400 buil I sat the side by side and couldn’t believe how similar they are to each other, the boss just finished building another 4l80, this time reverse pattern full manual trans braked for an 800hp turbo ls2 rock crawler patrol/hilux
I don’t think they’re as pathetic as a t700 or 4l60 cav, they were originally used in the big yank trucks and people movers so aswell as handling a fair amount of power they were used in some pretty heavy vehicles aswell, think h1 hummers and silverados, so if you’re putting it into something as featherweight in comparison as our commodores I don’t think they’ll have to much trouble even with bulk power, just like the t400 and glides you can buy all heavy duty parts and build them as strong as you need
Yeah that’s why I’m going for a 4l80e in my ss, full manualized no extra electronic bullshit and I will have overdrive and a pretty bulletproof box for not too much outlay, mind you the ss will be lucky to have 400 at the wheels whereas the ute will hopefully be up in the 6-800 mark which is why I went for the good old t400, food for thought though my boss is currently building a 4l80e to run in a gq patrol with an 800 rwhp duramax diesel which should be capable of 1400rwhp so if you build them right there’s nothing wrong with the 4l80
Tri-ys should be fine with a decent cam just get the bigger set, however if you’re thinking about a blower later on you might want to just go 4 into 1s
Can’t argue about the strength of the T400, especially if it’s a weekender and you’re going to boost it later on, that’s why I went that way for my toy, but for my ss I’m thinking of going the 4l80 coz I won’t be going to crazy with it and I like driving the old girl as much as I can so overdrive would be handy.
That’s not bad at all mate and at least that way engine wise you have pretty much everything you need, awesome price for the brakes too, just a bit of food for thought on your box though have you thought about a 4l80e it’s basically a t400 with overdrive, factory they’re electronic but they can be converted to full manualized and they can handle big power as well.
Depending on how silly you want to go later on I’d be seriously looking at an LQ9 6L iron block or even just a 5.3, much stronger than any of the stock ls engines and pretty much everything is interchangeable between them, one of our customers had a 5.3 with a single turbo making 780rwhp with the wrong cam and compression ratio, due to a dodgy engine builder, he’s now getting a 6L built properly so it’ll be interesting to see what that makes
That looks awesome mate can’t wait to see it in it’s final form
That’s handy to know, I might check out the castlemaine kits aswell but I was thinking of getting them from summit, it all depends on the cost though
I’ve been hearing that some of the wilwoods aren’t adr approved, what’s the story there? Are yours legal?
Now that’s a nice set of brakes, I plan on going wilwoods on my ss one of these days, what was the damage for yours if you don’t mind me asking? I’m currently running the late model 330 fronts and hsv pbr calipers with std rears, gotta sort out the vt rears then it’ll be ready for a nice set of wilwoods as soon as I can afford them
As ij said angle them for more surface area, you could even set the filters on an angle attached to under the bonnet where it splits from the plenums, it would probably make it easier to seal too
I understand what you mean by not wanting it to end up just sitting there and being a shed ornament, but looking at how far you’ve come and what you’ve accomplished so far I don’t think that would happen and as far as your skills go I don’t know many people that can do half the things you’ve managed to carry out by yourself let alone with help, some of the engineering alone in this car blows me away, having said that sometimes it’s better to tackle a job like this cai in parts so it doesn’t get overwhelming
Even a foam type panel filter or a sock/material thin filter made into a panel on the intake at the front just to catch the bigger debris and bugs and stuff would be better than nothing at all, and given that you only drive it occasionally you could have a spare set of filters there ready to swap out and it would be pretty easy to maintain,
It’s looking pretty bloody good though and I’d love to see something like this setup built to suit single or dual plane manifold setups for carb or injection it would look a lot better than the old airdam tray setups that’s for sure
