Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Don’t get me wrong, the coilovers have improved the steering response and grip immensely.
Especially since the only other suspension mods are poly bushes. If you added sway/strut bars and some good tyres, you’d have a serious bit of kit on a track day.
It’s just a touch too firm IMO for a daily driver, and not ideal for roads than can upset the balance of a car . admittedly 19s on 265s don’t help much with comfort either, but that shouldn’t be enough to make it too uncomfortable.
Still convinced that the koni inserts are probably a perfect match for road use.
Its amazing how many people go down the track of “lower is better” or “stiffer is better” without actually knowing. And then I laugh incredibly when they P-Plater next to me has to put 215 front tires on his commodore because his 20-inch wheels foul on the strut tower and says: “man it grips so much better like this”…..
On the road, compliance and travel are massively important. On a superflat racetrack, they aren’t as much. Tire choice and size is a huge factor too. There’s a reason why formula 1 cars dont have 20-million inch wheels with zero-profile tyres. Anyone who’s driven a modern porsche or M-series BMW will immediately understand why these companies spend millions fine-tuning their suspension setups to give amazing feel and grip, but still be comfortable.
Hats off to you IJ, it’s an art form developing your own suspension from scratch and making it work properly
Softer shock settings and stiffer bars is the way to go, bars won’t add a lot to the vertical rate..
I think this is the best way to go, it’s hard compromising at the moment.
Stiffening the rear helps turn-in and keeps the balance pretty neutral, stiffening the front and rear together helps with body roll. But when the rear in particular is stiffer than 5-6, It becomes a bit skittish getting power down out of corners.
As a note to anyone reading this, this is what i would do next time: put koni strut inserts into your existing struts, use factory FE2 springs (unless you want to go lower, it’s your prerogative, but FE2 is a pretty decent balance between comfortable and sharp), and adjustable sway bars. Then use sway bar setttings to adjust front and rear balance with your shock settings.
I wish i’d done that the first time around….
awesome thanks for that mate, i’ve been looking into changing the springs out.
The truth is i’m still running standard swaybars, (next on my list) and after taking them up numerous mountain roads, the hardest i’ve run them is 10 on the rear and 7 on the front (out of 30 settings) and it still can be upset by bumps. You might be tempted to use anything up to 20 on a smooth racetrack. Even with all set on 1 the ride is a little jiggly on the road, and on 20 it’s pretty unbearable. What on earth you would ever use 30 for is beyond me.
Putting stiffer swaybars will compound the problem, which is why I haven’t gone down that road as yet. You’d think there’d be spring options available, but pedders just shrug their shoulders… Morons…
why doesn’t every house come with an open plan garage right next to your kitchen??? That’s GENIUS!!!
I recently put pedderx XA coilovers on the Monaro (vt-vz design), and whilst i am skeptical about their choice of spring rate, i did notice that the mounts were still quite strong, very different from the ones in your first picture???
They must have changed their design, as the ones i bought had a relatively thick mount section (they call it a clevis), it must have been at least 2-3mm thick, maybe not 4 but still thick enough.
I’ll also note that pedders as a company were useless to deal with, they had very little product knowledge and their alignment was crap. But the coilover as a unit seemed much stronger than the eBay specials i saw.
Hypercars are just billionaire wank anyway, I mean who actually uses/drives one. Its all academic which one is faster/better whatever.
I agree, but you can’t deny the genius behind some of their designs, and the clever solutions that they come up with.
The 3D printed turbo housings, the horizontal shock absorber that minimises rear end squat without ruining the suspension geometry, the carbon fibre hollow wheels, even the nano holes in the interior buttons that allow light through without them having to use glass/plastic. These are all seriously clever ideas that nobody has done yet, and now they’re working on a hybrid supercar that has NO GEARBOX at all!!
These solutions will likely trickle down to everyday cars in the future, so give the guys over there a beer at least?
Doesn’t really get a second look. Just went out for lunch had to turn onto Churchill rd and there was a cop car parked, don’t reckon he even looked up from his hand burger
LOL, hand burger.
Glad to see it finally out and driving after following this car for ages on SC and now here. Who says project cars are never finished??
It sounds possible, but supercharger housings are generally designed to flow a certain direction, with one side of the rotors under vacuum, and one side under pressure. And the port shapes and runners are designed to flow a certain way as well.
Theoretically they wouldn’t be as efficient flowing in reverse. Would you make up the difference in efficiency by adding an IC setup? Could you adapt a IC setup without having to reverse flow the supercharger?
Maybe play with something like a Magnussen Heartbeat which has cooling cores built into the top cover (if i remember correctly)
The best thing about this is not just that it’s daily driven (or close enough to…) but how unassuming it is. Somebody would have to be looking pretty closely to notice any small details. And they’d probably still think it was nothing special, right up until they got their doors blown off.
E flex sender
He’d still have to jerry can it, or drive for hours to go fill up
I’ve run 114 mph. I don’t own the vehicle any more otherwise I’d be all for it. I’ll add another disappointed LS1 to the 304 hit list.
awww that’s a shame
was it still a 304 at that stage?
Interesting, there’s more than 0.7s difference in the ET, but only 1mph difference in trap speed…. Wanna roll race Cav???? :XD:-
This reply was modified 9 years ago by
Dan811.
My mates 402 stroker with a 5000 stall in a 4L60 went 10.9 a couple of times, with like 330rwkw. Your current combo can probably go 10s. You’ve just got to set it up right.
As michael said, 400rwkw should be plenty get you into the 10s, it’s the tyre/diff/stall combo that will matter most. The built T400 + stall + 3.9s are already in your favor, so getting the power to the ground is probably your main concern.
Honestly i’d run it as is with some Drag radials, experiment with launches and tyre pressures a little and you’ll work out pretty quickly based on your results if/where you need to change things
Awesome to finally see it running and being enjoyed (albeit for a brief moment)
Glad to hear it’s nothing too hard to fix
Surely the pump is covered under warranty, it’s hardly done any work yet? How did you find the drivability with the glide? Did you get any freeway kms with it?
Do you wish you got a TR6060MG9……? Sorry mate, had to ask
I wonder if we could start a timeslip thread with a little more emphasis on the MPH rather than just the ET.
It would be interesting to compare some of the supposedly “quicker” cars against the MPH of the “slower” ones. Obviously whether you’re running low profile street rubber vs drag radials makes a huge difference to your ET, but it doesn’t make your car quicker.
Lincoln was that Black 6L calais back on SC yeah? Didn’t he cam his 6L as well??
11.9 isn’t ridiculous if it’s set up properly.
The general rule is: if you take 0.1s off your 60ft, you can take 0.15s off your ET.
drag radials could drop your 60ft by 0.2s – 0.3s (even more in high-powered applications), and that could be worth half a second down the other end.
The true measure of how fast/powerful a car is in the real world is your MPH.
But getting a good ET takes not just power, but a well thought out tyre/diff/suspension combo that gets the power down as quickly as possible. The 11.9 VE mentioned above probably has a respectable, but not amazing trap speed. The setup and tyres would pay dividends. I wonder what that car would run on 20s?
Toooooo many people get stuck up on the numbers game and then scratch their heads when a cam only VE runs a high 11
Cam only running a high 11???? That’s surely not full weight on street tyres and std diff etc… I know it’s a stupid question but can you elaborate on “cam only”?
high 11s is a friggin quick time??
I’ve just got a Dus, full exhaust and 3.9s, and I just ran a 12.9 at 179km/h (pretty happy with the mph) at calder in the monaro exactly the way I drive it every day on 19s. My 60ft time was only 2.09 so there’s more in it, but i doubt a cam only would get me into the 11s without drag radials? (manual btw)
Yeah i wouldn’t change it anyway. 1 i like the look. 2 while the air box may be similar on the dyno but at the track is what its designed for and it works very well. I also take the filter out as its worth 2 tenths.
2 tenths?? That’s alot?? I ran at calder without a filter, but admittedly i didn’t think it was worth that much. Has anyone done a dyno with/without the filter? Also at what stage of the build? I’m only pushing 245rwkw so i’d guess it wouldn’t make that big a difference, but higher power engines need more air, compounding the problem. This is the first time i’ve heard anyone knock the DUS for lack of airflow so i’m interested now…
There are gains to be had by removing the DUS intake and going APS air box.
Is there evidence to support this??? I find it hard to beleive (though certainly not impossible…) and would it make a difference at the track when you would likely run the DUS without a filter anyways? Sorry for the hijack
-
This reply was modified 9 years ago by
