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June 9, 2017 at 12:09 pm #23063
Stops the diff from rolling on launch and hard acceleration.
So maintaing the geometry, pinion angle etc to maximise traction.
June 8, 2017 at 6:01 pm #23050Not much of an update. Still waiting on engineer to free up some space at the shop. Then I’ll drop it in for the work. In the mean time, bit the bullet and purchased a Pro9 Stabilizer Bar kit.
Should help with the killer launches.
June 8, 2017 at 5:47 pm #23049Back on the dyno? Did do tweaks? Or just finalising the tune?
Hows the intake tracking?
June 5, 2017 at 5:02 pm #23036Mild cam. Not much lift, so it should not making the most of the l98 heads. Power sounds right. But seems like tune needs s tweak.
June 4, 2017 at 5:16 pm #23024It’s amazing how much a strut brace actaully does.
June 1, 2017 at 7:10 am #23008Looking great mate. Any more photos of the raise battery area.
May 31, 2017 at 12:43 pm #22999I have a machine shop at home so made my own.. There’s also a proper tool to do Reluctor changes, I winged that one and got it perfect.
we aren’t all that fortunate 😩
Yeah I only recently seen the reluctor tool also.
May 31, 2017 at 6:35 am #22995ITB’s are always a bit more complex, agree once the Airbox is done you’d be able to run a system much like mine to good effect, it’s just a fact of life these engine breathe a little heavy under power and the stock system just won’t flow the volume required so they push the dipstick and can weep at the rear main.. I even went to the effort of turning up an alignment tool for the rear seal housing..
Apparently there is a proper tool so you can aline the rear main properly. I winged it and the bloody thing wept.
May 30, 2017 at 6:11 pm #22987It’s something that’s always neglected and over looked. 99.9% people just top it up.
May 30, 2017 at 11:42 am #22981I’ll be going -12 off the valve covers also. I’ll be getting some billet ones.
U can get billet valley covers. If it fits and works you could Weld a -12 bung to it also.
May 30, 2017 at 11:03 am #22977I Was always under the assumption that the valley should run to a seperate oil/air seperate and back into the system then have the valve covers government a seperate system. One has to breath out will the other sucks fresh air in?
no doubt Ian will know this a lot better then me. I was gunna make a catch can with a hidden filter going to atmosphere and then a fake like running back to the intake which was actaully internally blocked off.
May 30, 2017 at 10:22 am #22973<p style=”text-align: left;”>
^Yea right, no he hasn’t tried it yet, will post when he has. So seems my lift pumps may have been causing issues for a while. Was chatting to my Chemistry analysis mate about whats actually occurring last night, and apparently what happens is the main pump hasn’t been supplied enough fuel so it cause a low pressure on the suction side, that low pressure causes some of the fuel to vaporize. Basically thats not good tune wise, or really anything wise tbh. Now the new lift pumps in its cured, I also am pretty certain that’s been the cause of my fuel pump noise issue after about an hour of cruising, basically the main pump hasn’t had nice fuel flowing through lubricating it and keeping it cool, but will test that once i have it back. On a sour note there apparently was some drops of trans fluid dripping out the bell housing on the last dyno run….Don’t like the sounds of that, one step back one step forward.
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This is why I mentioned be weiry that new lift pump doesn’t flow much as if that’s not up to the task the same thing can happen.May 29, 2017 at 11:07 am #22962Bloody better not.
May 29, 2017 at 11:07 am #22961If your gunna bleed the brakes maybe drain and completely re fill the fluid
May 27, 2017 at 9:36 pm #22956U can get vs bracket which is reversed and you see the studs. I hate that.
Im gunna buy a lowe fabrication billet bracket. Ive sent him photos and spoken to him. He will mod it so it’s got that spacer built in.
I looked at relocating the stud but there isn’t a flat section on the tower to make it work.
In regards to bay. I’m welding the holes, and flattening off the battery tray ( not raising it) and give it a lick of paint. No smoothing towards and shit. Just welding holes. It will share the factory contours.
May 27, 2017 at 7:42 pm #22952I would, since your going to the effort. If it’s the factory window I think it’s easy to remove as they aren’t full sikaflexed in.
May 27, 2017 at 5:38 pm #22950So I took Ian’s advised and sourced a Vz Booster and Master. Cue VZ Maloo setup.
Got it installed today. Was a bit shorter then the vt, but IMO a lot neater, being more compact and less complicated on the master it’s self.
The bracket was short so for now I made a spacer. I will be ordering a CNC bracket which I’ll mod when time comes.
Also finally got the bonnet cut properly and it now shut. Everything clears. JUST
This is clearance to the TB. I’m going to invert it so I gain more room.
When bay gets painted I’ll get painter to clean up the bonnet and paint it also.
May 26, 2017 at 10:38 am #22937Be weiry they don’t flow much.
May 25, 2017 at 11:35 pm #229274.00 mark
May 24, 2017 at 9:49 pm #22909Looks good mate. My mate was looking to buy this a few years back. I can tell forgot that hand written spec sheeet haha
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