CommodoresPlus

Thought I would post this summary in case its useful for anyone else;

Changing from 58T reluctor wheel to 24T

You do NOT change the wiring going from the 58T (beige) crank angle sensor to the 24 (black) one. You do need to snip off the locating pin in the black sensor with side cutters then just plug it in, orientated so the locking clip still…[Read more]

Thought I would post this summary in case its useful for anyone else;

Changing from 58T reluctor wheel to 24T

<span dir=”ltr”><span class=”_3l3x”>You do NOT change the wiring going from the 58T (beige) crank angle sensor to the 24 (black) one. You do need to snip off the locating pin in the black sensor with side cutters then just plug it in,…[Read more]

Great info, thanks for sharing

I recall reading an old hotrod trick was to mill the face of factory headers at a slight angle to get them to hug the block more.  That an option?

Thanks, mate, yea so refreshing to deal with someone who knows his stuff, and is happy to help out.

Cool, knew you would have thought of it.  Bloody conversions, its all shits and giggles until the exhaust rears its ugly head…

Cool, knew you would have thought of it.  Bloody conversions, its all shitsd and giggles until the exhaust rears its ugly head…

Looking the goods mate, beautiful work.  Now bear in mind I know next to nothing about this sort of thing.  But is all the torque reaction of the front drive shafts taken out through the poly bushes and tubes?  They don’t look particularly long, when you accelerate/decelerate will there be a big twisting moment on them?   Just a thought, could be…[Read more]

Well, that’s an interesting few days…

Got it all installed, hit the starter, turned over but no fuel pumps.  Bugger…  Looked around, couldn’t spot anything obvious.  Rank Mike who had done some wiring, he was able to come around the next morning.  Started playing around, then at one stage while we more or less standing there the pumps dec…[Read more]

Phew, what a few days.  Literally got it running at 5 o’clock last night, tbh I posted up on FB, cracked a beer and called it quits.  Might throw this up here first, it’s first fire so hadn’t played with the idle or anything, sounds angry and very tuff imo.  Will post after the whole story/saga.

Copper was free. Cheaper and easier way to do hard line.

We use copper on caravans etc for gas lines. If clipped right it’s ok

This is all hard drawn copper and crimp fittings. It won’t move or bend, unless someone rear ends me

Copper was free. Cheaper and easier way to do hard line.

We use copper on caravans etc for gas lines. If clipped right it’s ok

this is all hard drawn copper  it won’t move or bend  not unless someone rear ends me

Looking good. I know your paint about those headers.

Just noticed you have you heater pump nipples blocked. You should run the loop. Blocking them creates unneeded pressure build up from what I’ve read.

Moving along nicely mate.

About to start day 3.  Yesterday got the headers in, I thinks its all about sequence and process.  Took most of the day though.  But that a combination of doing them on my own, no room, and paranoia about scratching anything.  So have made up a list of whats left, might go close today but will wait and see.  I have waited this long not rush…[Read more]

Assume you going along the lines of k frame spacers etc.

Cheers mate

You will need a scoop to fit the lsa cover. Mine sadly doesn’t fit. Gotta sell it

Made a start on the ice box install. Everything is mocked up. I’ll head to Gisborn tomorrow and get the copper flare to JIC spec. Then I’ll come back and tighten it all up and proceed to crimp.

I don’t think flow will be an issue.

Also picked up some billet valve covers with should look the part.

Made a start on the ice box install. Everything is mocked up. I’ll head to Gisborn tomorrow and get the copper flare to JIC spec. Then I’ll come back and tighten it all up and proceed to crimp.

I don’t think flow will be an issue.

Thanks guys, now its just about time to tackle the headers…