CommodoresPlus

Nah man, its going on the engine dyno for a full test and tune before it goes in the car

You could always just install the heads in the car. If you run out of patients.

Actually probably have them installed in 20 or 30 cars now, never had a complaint.  They work really well.  I started off perfecting the design for mine, then came up with the idea of offering them to other people.  Alot of it has to do with the quality of the printer.  Mine is a semi commercial one, it cost me just under $4k to buy, so it a pre…[Read more]

Tbh haven’t heard from him in a couple of days, I think he has a fair bit on, unfortunately patience is not a commodity I possess a lot of, so I am trying to train myself!

ARP basically own the market when it comes to fastners.

How far are the heads? I thought Brenton Cnc’s once he gets the first cyclinder right.

Looks like more research and reading up us in order  

Yea i did some research on the benefits of studs vs bolts, seems to make a lot of sense.  Been part of the fun learning along the way

Hey mate, did you know I run a 3D printing hobby business called Build Ninja, I design and make various gauge pods etc.  This is the one in mine.  Take a look at http://www.buildninja.com.au

Yea I haven’t seen many performance engine builder that don’t use them, I mean fundamentally they hold everything together so its kinda important.  Sure is mate, really coming together now, almost there.

Well yes they are expensive, but I do think they are worth it.  Particularly given the large bore of the 454 and consequent  small distance between cylinders.  So chased all the threads, they were actually all perfect, then ran them in by hand like they say.  There’s some minor length variations so you have to be careful fitting them and whe…[Read more]

Agree, that’s what I found.  I bought my bends and mufflers originally from di Phillipo, tbh I wasn’t exactly blown away by their customer service, so when I needed some more I bought it from AAA exhausts here in Adelaide who were great to deal with by comparison.

Just heard my nice ARP head stud kit is being delivered tomorrow, another step closer….

Just food for thought, I bought (maybe you could borrow?) a tig welder, all the bits and did it myslef.  It wasn’t hard as such, was time consuming but really satisfying.  And you won’t get cheaper, its only the bits and pieces that you pay for.  Just an idea.

Yea I cant remember the model I had when I was on 2.5 acres, but it was a mid size stihl.  Just couldn’t fault it, started every time, just did what it was supposed too.

So according to Adam “the LS guru” Wickson at Precision, no advantage in going to the expense of the billet oil barbell.  Stock works fine.

If you use a good exhaust guy, honestly the difference in clearance of 3″ vs 2.5″ around the diff shouldn’t be an issue,  I personally wouldn’t use that as a reason to decide if you know what I mean.  I got twin 3″ around a big ass harrop 12 bolt on mine.

I had a $300 twin 2.5 redback system. Sounded good, still layer down 280rwkw and had plenty of clearance.

There is the main oilway front to back along the block.  The front is blocked off with a 16mm (5/8″) welsh plug, the rear has this “barbell” that presses in, and the forward facing knob sits between the two vertical drilling into the oil filter passages (red arrow in pic).  You remove it to clean the oil-way, apparently (and in my case) the O r…[Read more]

There is the main oilway front to back along the block.  The front is blocked off with a 16mm (5/8″) welsh plug, the rear has this “barbell” that presses in, and the forward facing knob sites between the two vertical drillings into the oil filer passages (red arrow in pic).  You remove it to clean the oilway, apparently (and in my case) the O r…[Read more]

Ill be honest, dont even know where that goes? First ive seen and or heard of that.