CommodoresPlus

Nice work, good to see someone else that’s had a go, Its been about 4000km since I done mine and it’s easily the best thing you can do to the IRS, for grip and tyre wear. Haven’t gone back to the strip yet though.

Im using superpro bushes which have the 2 bolts and locknuts and I still have plenty of thread to lock up, they don’t come loose but…[Read more]

They will suit as the subframe is basically the same, Its not an easy job to work out the plates as the mount is angled/slanted slightly and welding the boxes on can be tight even with a flex head tig torch.

The boxes (first and second pic) can be run on standard rear end.

I used to run the adjustable bushes on the toe and camber (super pro), I couldn’t get the adjustment that I needed to not scrub tyres, I am still running the adjustable bush on the camber side with the additional hole and if I want I can give it positive camber, the adjustment…[Read more]

Always seems to be out by 2 degrees.
I always carry spares to the track, I have Porsche 930 cv’s now which are holding up well, stubs are twisting though lol.

Give us a heads up next time you are deciding to go to Sydney dragway, I’m due to run again.

Always seems to be out by 2 degrees.
<p style=”text-align: left;”>I always carry spares to the track, I have Porsche 930 cv’s now which are holding up well, stubs are twisting though lol.</p>
<p style=”text-align: left;”>Give us a heads up next time you are deciding to go to Sydney dragway, I’m due to run again.</p>

Nice build!

Surprised you haven’t smashed a cv yet although autos/radials are more forgiving.

That cam has a decent split, should sound real good, I hope you dialed the cam in as every comp cam I’ve installed (3 of them) was either retard or advance at least a degree or 2.

+1 for the filter removal it makes a difference, just make sure you…[Read more]

Thanks for the nice comments fellas.

I have a digital ac/dc tig, filler rods are Cigweld high test rt60 using 2.4mm 2% thoriated tungsten sharpened to a long pointed tip, I use a foot pedal so set max amps to 110.

Thanks mate.

No problems.

I have all the measurements and most stuff drawn on cad, so if anyone needs info just ask.

Can’t see why not, the subframe is similar, but the control arms are different.

Not sure how much clearance from the mount to the body the vp/s has though. You will need 50mm from the centre of the original mount hole to the body at the lowest point minimum.

Yeah sorry posting off the phone so bit limited and rushed.

Yep this is in the VU, I’ve used a VY sedan subframe and control arms as you can get the shocks more upright with the extensions then the ute control arms, also you can use toe rods which I’ve made out of chromoly with rod ends.

Yeah sorry posting off the phone so bit limited.

Yep this is in the VU, I’ve used a VY sedan subframe and control arms as you can get the shocks more upright with the extensions then the ute control arms, also you can use toe rods which I’ve made out of chromoly with rod ends.

Sorry for the delay, ive attached some pictures.

Lower mount for coilovers has been extended with 4340 chromoly, it has been welded to the original mount and tapped for longer m14 bolt. This is in a ute so the upper mount bolts in place of the factory shock mount.

The car feels heaps better than the original setup and the shock/spring is now be…[Read more]

I have modified the camber mounting point, made boxed section and cut the roof out of the standard mount.

Made boxed section with extra hole 20mm higher, I get basically zero camber at a height of 625mm (measuring floor to lip).

Also it’s a good idea to have subframe bushes that are either solid or hard urethane as the top of the box will sit…[Read more]