CommodoresPlus

Yea I haven’t seen many performance engine builder that don’t use them, I mean fundamentally they hold everything together so its kinda important.  Sure is mate, really coming together now, almost there.

Well yes they are expensive, but I do think they are worth it.  Particularly given the large bore of the 454 and consequent  small distance between cylinders.  So chased all the threads, they were actually all perfect, then ran them in by hand like they say.  There’s some minor length variations so you have to be careful fitting them and whe…[Read more]

Agree, that’s what I found.  I bought my bends and mufflers originally from di Phillipo, tbh I wasn’t exactly blown away by their customer service, so when I needed some more I bought it from AAA exhausts here in Adelaide who were great to deal with by comparison.

Just heard my nice ARP head stud kit is being delivered tomorrow, another step closer….

Just food for thought, I bought (maybe you could borrow?) a tig welder, all the bits and did it myslef.  It wasn’t hard as such, was time consuming but really satisfying.  And you won’t get cheaper, its only the bits and pieces that you pay for.  Just an idea.

Yea I cant remember the model I had when I was on 2.5 acres, but it was a mid size stihl.  Just couldn’t fault it, started every time, just did what it was supposed too.

So according to Adam “the LS guru” Wickson at Precision, no advantage in going to the expense of the billet oil barbell.  Stock works fine.

If you use a good exhaust guy, honestly the difference in clearance of 3″ vs 2.5″ around the diff shouldn’t be an issue,  I personally wouldn’t use that as a reason to decide if you know what I mean.  I got twin 3″ around a big ass harrop 12 bolt on mine.

There is the main oilway front to back along the block.  The front is blocked off with a 16mm (5/8″) welsh plug, the rear has this “barbell” that presses in, and the forward facing knob sits between the two vertical drilling into the oil filter passages (red arrow in pic).  You remove it to clean the oil-way, apparently (and in my case) the O r…[Read more]

There is the main oilway front to back along the block.  The front is blocked off with a 16mm (5/8″) welsh plug, the rear has this “barbell” that presses in, and the forward facing knob sites between the two vertical drillings into the oil filer passages (red arrow in pic).  You remove it to clean the oilway, apparently (and in my case) the O r…[Read more]

Hey CP brains trust, so came across these.  Supposedly  worthwhile replacement for the regular plastic oil way barbell.  Peoples thoughts, worth it or a bit of wank??  I literally just fitted a new OE one, but its one the engine stand so no probs to swap over now, but peoples thoughts?

Stihl, hands down imo

Exhausts are a really such a personal preference.  Might be worth trying to find a mates or whatever you like the sound of and go that way?

Chain saw porn???

Well that’s pretty much a wrap until the heads arrive.  Swapped over the cam gear bolts for ARP, checked, double checked then triple checked everything.

Rear housing is on, spent some time and took the sharp edge off the rear oil gallery where the barbell goes, so the O ring feel better about life when it gets installed.

Pretty much everything…[Read more]

That turbo looks huge!!

I did consider that, but as you quite rightly say, especially with the priority main on the LSx oiling isn’t an issue.  That’s a must on a Holden V8 thought I believe?

Yea I thought the same thing, they are $8.15 so bit of a no brainer, but cant imagine them giving any trouble.  Yea mate the world will know when it fires up    

Got a couple of hours in yesterday.  Upgraded the timing chain set up, so had to remove the old lower sprocket, there’s not a lot of room behind but it needs a deep puller due to the amount of the crank sticking out.  My long puller has very chunky claws so took a little while on my bench grinder to modify it but then came off nicely.  I think I…[Read more]

Sweet mate, beautiful condition